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[CrashCash]

I have a couple Elcon 2500s that I put in an old Givi E45 topbox.

Unfortunately, the Y-connector is now about 6" too short to reach the socket behind the motor.

Is there anywhere I can get an extension with the necessary Andersen plugs and CANBUS wiring?

I considered just using another Y-connector but then I'd have a live empty plug waving around when I'm charging...

Doe anyone sell anything like this?

Thanks...

[NEW2elec]

Brandon at Diginow made an Andersen to female 110 plug.
They are very busy right now but that's the first place I can think of.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

The OP has probably already done this, but word to the wise:

2 Elton 2500 units weigh 30lbs together, exceeding the rating of the top rack. Please reinforce the bolts fastening the top rack to the frame tail, and also ensure that any gap between the rack tongue tab and the tail is filled in with a firm but flexible material to dampen the dynamic load.

With a single Elcon 2500 in my tail case, I’ve had the stock bolts for the top rack break the heads off at speed on the highway. This is an undesirable condition.

[Erasmo]

I have a couple Elcon 2500s that I put in an old Givi E45 topbox.

Unfortunately, the Y-connector is now about 6" too short to reach the socket behind the motor.

Is there anywhere I can get an extension with the necessary Andersen plugs and CANBUS wiring?

I considered just using another Y-connector but then I'd have a live empty plug waving around when I'm charging...

Doe anyone sell anything like this?

Thanks...

Do you have a camping/boat shop nearby? They can whip one up in 5 minutes. You could even make it a bit longer so you can leave it in permanently so you don't have to do the ol' reach around everytime you want to charge.

[CrashCash]

2 Elton 2500 units weigh 30lbs together

Actually, more like 44lbs all-up, and it affects the handling of the bike.

I'd really like to put them in sidebags, but there's no way all the cabling would stretch.

I'm considering forking out for a good crimping tool and doing it myself. It would give me the ability to make long enough cables to use saddlebags.

I mounted the bare Elcons on the side racks, but I couldn't tame the cabling situation.

The official tool on Mouser is $1,300 which is a bit steep. Hydraulic battery cable crimpers are a more reasonable $40 on Amazon.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

The official tool is overkill, and I’ve even hard is not the right tool, but a $40 tool via Amazon may be not high quality enough to get a good crimp. Remember that these terminals need to transmit 30 amps and deal with a considerable amount of wear and tear.

A badly crimped power cable terminal can eventually tug it’s way out of the lug, and if that happens under power you could get a flash, some smoke, and a damaging amount of heat and arcing.

Basically, see whether you can get a good tool recommendation but probably more importantly get some training to make good crimps and have someone check your crimps. I wish I had a better answer; this is a key skill that’s still transmitted in a very narrow professional context, almost like a guild.

[Shadow]

The 6-ton hydraulic crimpers from Harbor Freight worked really well on the SBS 10ga and 12ga contacts, just that the markings for the dies are real sizes and so go 8ga die for 10ga/12ga contacts. Used a Husky Automotive jumper cable cut up for the DC HV power wire and it was a hack, worked good enough but if you wanted better then suggest to use Cobra XFlex in 10ga. No clue about the signaling pins.

[Crilly]

Solder - screw cripping.

[Shadow]

Solder - screw cripping.

Solder that melts under current load and fatigues under vibration? The debate there is pretty much settled no? Avoid soldered connections.

[Electric Cowboy]

Shadow is 100% correct do NOT use solder as a mechanical method of connecting things, it will fail spectacularly. And by spectacularly I mean it will just break and stop working if you are lucky, and you can fix it. If you are not lucky, it will get really hot as it fatigues and catch something near it on fire from increased resistance. You would have to be unlucky, but I have seen it.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I agree with Shadow and DigiNow about soldering. This misunderstanding is why recommendations on an open internet forum should be very carefully framed.

You absolutely do not know what the reader of your post thinks is acceptable practice around power electronics and power cables.

I try as much as possible to avoid a "false positive" of confidence in the reader, in order to minimize the amount of money the community and Zero have to spend fixing damage, and to avoid creating an incident that makes us all look incompetent and causes the manufacturers to abandon or harass us.

[CrashCash]

I looked at the crappy $30 10-ton units w/o handles and went the next step up for a 16-ton one with extra dies and decent handles with a grip on them.

I wish I could just keep it in the top box, as it's a nice self-contained unit. It really has a serious effect on the handling of the bike though, and makes me worry about emergency braking[1], in addition to the worries about the rack structural limits.

I'm hoping I can get fancy and run the cables through small grommets in the bags before terminating them. I'd like to just be able to pull up, flip the bags open for cooling, and plug the J-1772 in. We'll see. At worst I'll be eliminating the horrid tight-radius bends in the cables to make everything barely reach.

[1] I live in Florida, which means emergency braking at least once a day.

Edit: and the BMW shop has a Energica Eva on the floor, just begging to go home with me. My SR isn't paid off until this coming Halloween though.