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[Zer0G]

Thanks Guys for the LPR idea 
That's perfect for my daily use 

For your information, while using the LPR mode :
- it does not take into account the Amp limit. and it's not adjustable neither
    --> it charge with the fan ON.That's not a big deal for me but it can be for some

- it stabilize at 80%, not 87%
    -->  fit me well but also may not be sufficient for some

Good point. Energica is working on the charge management algorithm. Upcoming firmware will add some new functionalities about charge termination and fan management.

[MostlyBonkers]

I was told that the Energica batteries use the same cells that are used in their parent company's satellites.  If that's true, then I think they know those cells about as well as anyone could.  I imagine they're very stable and are designed to last a couple of decades.

Unless you're storing your bike for winter, I wouldn't worry. Just use it as is most convenient.  In five years time you'll be able to replace the battery and increase your range significantly. No doubt that's something you'll want to do because the Energica's range is terrible. Or just buy a better bike then and get something a lot lighter that handles better at the same time. :-)

[Zer0G]

That is a good point about the Energica batteries. Especially, as they use a different battery chemistry than does Zero. They also advertise a lower number of charges that their batteries are rated for, compared with Zero. I think Energica says 1200 full charge/discharge cycles, compared with Zero's advertised 3000 cycles. Plus, the Energica is a much larger investment than most Zero models. I can see how you wouldn't want to push the envelope if your didn't need to. Plus why take any chances, since Energica hasn't been on the consumer market all that long and no one has any long-term experience with their batteries' actual service life.

Energica uses the same chemistry than zero (NMC lithium nichel cobalt manganese). The fact Energica declares less cycles than zero depends on the fact that Energica figure is real, zero is a number that makes no sense at all. Best lifepo4 batteries (much lower tendity and performances)  are rated for 3000 cycles but on the paper. On real use probably 2500. No way that zero batteries can last 3000 cycles (especially because I know the brand of the cell and I personally tested them with accelerated aging tests). I think that  to have a realistic number you need to divide by two the zero data.

[Ashveratu]

Take 2 Identical batteries, one of them you charge to 4.20 volts and discharge to 2.8 volts over the course of its life. The other you only charge to 4.00 volts and discharge to 3.00 volts. Guess what, the second one is going to last much longer. Granted you are not using the full capacity but you are greatly increasing its life span.

What I am trying to say here is, it mostly boils down to how one programs the BMS to charge and discharge the batteries to determine long they will last.

[togo]

> I was told that the Energica batteries use the same cells that are used in their parent company's satellites.  If that's true, then I think they know those cells about as well as anyone could.  I imagine they're very stable and are designed to last a couple of decades.

Nice PR.  But the battery warranty doesn't indicate that level of confidence.

[Anubis-R]

Take 2 Identical batteries, one of them you charge to 4.20 volts and discharge to 2.8 volts over the course of its life. The other you only charge to 4.00 volts and discharge to 3.00 volts. Guess what, the second one is going to last much longer. Granted you are not using the full capacity but you are greatly increasing its life span.

What I am trying to say here is, it mostly boils down to how one programs the BMS to charge and discharge the batteries to determine long they will last.

I read a lot of articles regarding battery ageing, and as said by ashveratu, the less stress it gets, the longer it last.

I will talk here about real % of the battery capacity, not the indicated % on dashboard which is calculated regarding the range used by the BMS)
Any Li-ion battery can last (considering it dead while loosing 10% of capacity) :

- about 300 cycles if using 90% of Real capacity
- about 1000 cycles if using 75% of Real Capacity --> smartphones for example
- about 3000 cycles if using 50% of Real capacity --> std EV for example
- about 5000 cycles if using 25% of real capacity --> EV using 50% of its range for example
- even longer for satellites that are launched to last for decades, using 10% or so of the whole battery capacity

we have same scheme regarding Intensity and voltage, basically, the less stress it get, the the longer it last.

that is why I consider important to avoid charging at 100% / discharging at 0% and to limit the current to slow down the charge.

interesting link recently updated for those who want to read more
https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

[Zer0G]

The general idea beside your post is correct, but there are few considerations that I want to share. Every battery chemistry behaves differently. This also apply to same chemistries and different manufacturer. Given this, there are few general rules at least for lithium cobalt manganese. Those batteries are extremely conservative in terms of exchanged Ah. It means that if a 100Ah cell is rated for 1000 cycles at standard conditions (25°C 1C discharge down to 3V, 0.3C charge, charge termination at 0.05C and voltage 4.2v),  if you run the cell with half cycles (only 50Ah exchanged) it will last 2000 cycles more or less.
So in this case you will charge the cell twice the time for half of the range - > more or less same total mileage.
There are factors that will shrink down the total amount of Ah that a cell can handle in its life that are mainly:
- average temperature: higher average temperatures will significantly affect the cycle life and calendar life;
- charge termination voltage: the very top part of the charge is somehow stressing for the cell (not over 80 or 90% but pushing to 4.2 or even higher voltage can divide by 2 the cycle life).
- average and peak discharge rate or charge rate.

The lowest part of the charge is not (my personal opinion after hundreds of ours of tests)  so important for the cell life (at least if you don't force it to extreme undervoltage).
Even less for LiFePO4 cells (accelerated aging tests on a couple of manufacturer didn't show any degradation after several complete discharge to 0.1V).

Given this, I know that Energica batteries are managed in an extremely conservative way.

[DonTom]

HI everyone,

How can we stop charging an Energica at 85% ?

I'm using 60% a day, and want to increase my battery life.
So my aim is to charge up to 85% and came back home with 25%

I set 85% on the app and hit the "SET" button without any result whatever the status of EVA... On / Off / On while charging / Off while charging... 
Even with the smallest 6A current (1,3kW), I get to 100% in 5h... and I don't want to get up at 4 AM to unplug the Eva ^^

Does anyone knows how to manage to do that?

Figure out how many miles per hour of charge you get and set an AC timer to turn off at the correct time for around  85%.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I am still using the DigiNow 2.5 controller to taper and stop the charge at 111V or 112V, and it is very reliable and maintains cell balance as expected.

I’m glad I don’t rely on the onboard charger and a timer. The inrush on that charger is just tempting fate.

[DonTom]

I am still using the DigiNow 2.5 controller to taper and stop the charge at 111V or 112V, and it is very reliable and maintains cell balance as expected.

I’m glad I don’t rely on the onboard charger and a timer. The inrush on that charger is just tempting fate.

The Zero chargers slowly come up to full power. No real surge.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I am still using the DigiNow 2.5 controller to taper and stop the charge at 111V or 112V, and it is very reliable and maintains cell balance as expected.

I’m glad I don’t rely on the onboard charger and a timer. The inrush on that charger is just tempting fate.

The Zero chargers slowly come up to full power. No real surge.

The onboard Calex chargers don’t have inrush protection on the AC side. This makes me doubt the safety of using them and particularly with upstream timers.

[DonTom]

The onboard Calex chargers don’t have inrush protection on the AC side. This makes me doubt the safety of using them and particularly with upstream timers.

What's the difference between the timer and an AC switch?

An AC timer is an AC switch. I just don't see an issue here.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

The onboard Calex chargers don’t have inrush protection on the AC side. This makes me doubt the safety of using them and particularly with upstream timers.

What's the difference between the timer and an AC switch?

An AC timer is an AC switch. I just don't see an issue here.

A timer operates a switch. A switch breaks a circuit.

I’m recommending against a switch. I’m in favor of software control of a solid state switching power supply, reducing the power to zero in a reasonable rampdown rate.

[SBK74]

From January onwards Energica will offer a software update, which (among other features) enables stopping the charge at a preset level from the dashboard.

https://www.energicamotor.com/9789-intermot-2018-energica-my2019/

[ultrarnr]

It also sounds like they are increasing the fast charging speed which will be nice. Like the idea of the 2019 models getting traction control.