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Author Topic: Another Melted 120V Charge Cable  (Read 1203 times)

Killroy

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Re: Another Melted 120V Charge Cable
« Reply #15 on: June 27, 2018, 03:59:55 AM »

Is that a 12ga 5-15P to C13 power cord (similar to the one that comes with the bike) you are referring to?  If so, please let us know where we can source such a cord.  The heaviest I've seen these cords is 14ga.

I looked today and I have two 5-15P to C13 power cords, one from Amazon and one from San Jose BMW/Zero.  Both have identical markings and are 14 AWG.

The markings on the 5-15P is "YUNGLI YP-12" and "YUNG LI YC-12" on the C13.  These still may be different power cords, but they have the same components or copy. 
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jheth

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Re: Another Melted 120V Charge Cable
« Reply #16 on: June 27, 2018, 10:11:55 AM »

The onboard charger seems to be the weak link in current design (mine failed on my 2015 SR too).
Simplest solution? Just get an external charger. If you don't need a $1000+ onboard quick charger (i.e. always charge overnight at home), try to find a deal on a Delta Q charger. I've been using one of these for a couple months, and it works great (just slow). It also draws less power from your wall outlet, which can be a good thing.


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nedfunnell

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Re: Another Melted 120V Charge Cable
« Reply #17 on: June 30, 2018, 02:06:28 AM »

Is that a 12ga 5-15P to C13 power cord (similar to the one that comes with the bike) you are referring to?  If so, please let us know where we can source such a cord.  The heaviest I've seen these cords is 14ga.

I looked at mine and it is indeed 14awg. My error- I think it has some extra insulation or something, since it's definitely the thickest C13 cable I've ever seen.
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togo

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Re: Another Melted 120V Charge Cable
« Reply #18 on: June 30, 2018, 05:41:47 AM »

> > Step 1 is to check your voltage on the wall.[/quote]

> +1. If it's low it's a bit expensive to reliably increase at high power levels, but always good to know.

+1

Constant power means more amps when voltage is low.  Heat generated is power loss at a point of resistance, P=I^2R

Heat is based on the *square* of the current.  So low voltage means a lot more heat at the dirty contact when current increases.

Look for resistance points, clean those contacts.

And watch out for low voltage.

And don't forget there's a crimp behind the C13, if you feel heat coming from in there, you might have a bad crimp.


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