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[dukecola]

Cost?
Is it powdercoated and does the color match the bike's black?
Does it's shape  look like an add-on or does it blend in with the bike's shape?
Is it sold separately for those of us who already have modules?

Pans are $300 and come with type 3 anodization, the hardest available. It's a dark gray that I'm really quite fond of. The bike's frame is textured and our pans are smooth; it's very close in color.
Unless you know what to look for it does not stand out. That is unless you opt for a raw pan and get it type 2 anodized to try and match your bike for cool accent options.
It is sold separately. However we need to re-route a wire on the modules you already have and it's an extremely delicate procedure. We don't mind doing it but we're not comfortable with anyone outside of us doing it. This means we'd like you to send us back your chargers and we will mod them and install into the pan, shipping everything out as one unit. It would be a great time to upgrade to a third unit so you've got a full pan, too!

We know how crippling it will be to be without SuperChargers for any length of time, so this procedure is something we want to carefully schedule to make sure we can get your units turned around with 48 hours of us receiving them. It would also be a good time to consider the v2.5 board if you don't have one, which is actually the original point of this thread now that I think about it.

Thank you for that info. What I'll do is in the fall send my two modules in to be mounted in the pan along with the V2.5 controoler. I don't need the 3rd unit yet (very few dual J stations where I travel in New England) But I'll have you pre wire it for the 3rd module and when I eventually decide to get that, it'll be ready for it.

[togo]

Hey, dukecola, any tesla Destination Charge stations where you travel? I ask because Tesla DC (unfortunate acronym) can deliver up to 18kw of A/C.

[togo]

Those of you who've got SCv2.5, paste your control strings here.

This string should be good for one diginow brick to 114V from a weak home outlet for my ZF11.4, 10 nominal workmans*:

1140,90,1,800,0,50

And this would be closer to what the onboard charger would do, charge at 1280 watts to 116.4

1164,90,1,1280,0,50

Can't say I love the protocol, but it's effective.

* A Workman is 1000 watts for an hour.

[dennis-NL]

The man on a mission:



He is going for even faster charging with the Diginow 2.5 units: 4!!

[MVetter]

The man on a mission:



He is going for even faster charging with the Diginow 2.5 units: 4!!

I think Terry has 7. But yeah Brandon had 4 until his beta test pan with exterior cables got sheared and now he's down to 3 and I NEVER HEAR THE END OF IT ("I can't live with 3 chargers, what is this peasant life, waaaaah")

[Richard230]

Dr. Bass certainly is creative.  However, if his concern is that the front fender might hit his new charger location, it would be a lot easier to trim the end of the fender than trim the charger housing box. If you check out some of the new Italian motorcycles, such as the 2018 Ducatis, you will find that front fenders keep getting shorter and shorter and now look like styling components rather than anything that is going to protect the rider and his machine from road debris and water. 

To double check that the front tire can never touch the new charger, the best method would be to remove the springs from the forks and slide them up by hand to see how far the wheel will move. If the front wheel physically can not move far enough to hit the charger box, then no worries.  However, if the tire does hit the box, it is still likely that the front wheel will never really move that far since the springs will bind and prevent movement to such an extent. 

So how to obtain an accurate real-world measurement if you need one?  What I would do is to place a zip-tie around the sliding fork tube at the top of the slider then slam on the brakes to see where the zip-tie ends up. That will tell you the maximum movement of the front wheel under real world riding conditions. Then remove the springs and slide the wheel upward until the sliding tube reaches the location of the zip-tie and see where it ends up in relation to the charger box. If the tire does not hit the box then you are home free.  From what I see in the video, it looks to me that the tire will not move far enough upward to hit the charger - but I could be wrong and the clearance really needs to be verified.

Now all he has to do is to find two chargers that are next to each other which are not already occupied by another charging customer or parked IC vehicle. 

[Emtkopan]

Sorry, I haven't written before now but I've been enjoying riding again. I did get most of it installed on my own but had some questions which Brandon was able to answer.

Step 1: You remove the old pan and the OEM charging unit. The charging unit has four connections. One large one on the right (brown harness), one plugs directly into the charger, and the last one is a two part. The last one is the 110V DC plug on the frame. If you take off the left passenger peg, it makes it easier to remove the two hex screws holding in the plastic charger port. The other option is to just wiggle it and break off the plastic holding charging port to the frame. The next connection is a small wire with a black harness under the seat. That wire also runs next to the old charging port you just removed.

Step 2. The mounting screws supplied were not long enough so I went to Home Depot and purchased more. M5 x 8 40mm socket screws and washers. If you look under the battery there are two fins so the charger does not lay directly against the battery. You have two fans that need to be zip tied or mounted in some way in the belly pan so it draws air out of the belly pan. That means the side of the fan with the wire faces out. I found it easier to push all the wires to the rear then mount the new belly pan loosely to the bike before plugging everything back together.

Step 3. Start running all your wires through the frame. It is pretty straightforward as the harnesses only fit certain connectors. Mine had some closed off connections for me to add a third unit later so they were just zip tied together through the frame. There is an aluminum box with orange wires coming out both sides. I placed it in the open void under the seat before the tail end.

Step 4. Make all your wire harness connections. I placed the J1772 charge port on the right side of the bike. I drilled two holes in the frame and zip tied it onto the bike and the side mount brackets for my side cases. Mine also has the manual switch to activate one charge unit or two charge units.

Notes: 1. The fans turn on when the charger is plugged in so it will sound like it is getting ready to fly away.
2. The green charging indicator will turn on.
3. It is my understanding that you can send scripts to the charger to control how hard the chargers work in case you plug into weak outlets. I don't know how to do that as I have not been made privy to that information yet. There is no app right now either.
4. I can't pictures here but pictures are available at https://emtkopan.smugmug.com/DigiNow-v25-Supercharger-install/

[dennis-NL]

Thx so much for sharing your expertise.
This is something for the unofficial Zero manual in future !

[Burton]

I drilled two holes in the frame

It looks like you drilled one of the fins on the controller heat sink, not the frame

[Emtkopan]

You’re right but I don’t think it will cause a problem.

[Emtkopan]

I also noticed my Zero makes more noise when parked and charging than when I’m riding! [emoji23]

[MrDude_1]

Dr. Bass certainly is creative.  However, if his concern is that the front fender might hit his new charger location, it would be a lot easier to trim the end of the fender than trim the charger housing box. If you check out some of the new Italian motorcycles, such as the 2018 Ducatis, you will find that front fenders keep getting shorter and shorter and now look like styling components rather than anything that is going to protect the rider and his machine from road debris and water. 

To double check that the front tire can never touch the new charger, the best method would be to remove the springs from the forks and slide them up by hand to see how far the wheel will move. If the front wheel physically can not move far enough to hit the charger box, then no worries.  However, if the tire does hit the box, it is still likely that the front wheel will never really move that far since the springs will bind and prevent movement to such an extent. 

So how to obtain an accurate real-world measurement if you need one?  What I would do is to place a zip-tie around the sliding fork tube at the top of the slider then slam on the brakes to see where the zip-tie ends up. That will tell you the maximum movement of the front wheel under real world riding conditions. Then remove the springs and slide the wheel upward until the sliding tube reaches the location of the zip-tie and see where it ends up in relation to the charger box. If the tire does not hit the box then you are home free.  From what I see in the video, it looks to me that the tire will not move far enough upward to hit the charger - but I could be wrong and the clearance really needs to be verified.

Now all he has to do is to find two chargers that are next to each other which are not already occupied by another charging customer or parked IC vehicle. 

Its quicker and easier to loosen the triple and slide the fork tubes up than it is to unscrew the caps and deal with the fork oil.

[Richard230]

Its quicker and easier to loosen the triple and slide the fork tubes up than it is to unscrew the caps and deal with the fork oil.
[/quote]

But that won't tell you how far up the slider will move in the fork tubes.  You have to unscrew the caps to release the tension on the springs in order to slide the lower tubes and the front wheel up to where they would stop, as indicated by the zip-tie, when the forks are fully compressed under hard breaking.

[MrDude_1]

Its quicker and easier to loosen the triple and slide the fork tubes up than it is to unscrew the caps and deal with the fork oil.

But that won't tell you how far up the slider will move in the fork tubes.  You have to unscrew the caps to release the tension on the springs in order to slide the lower tubes and the front wheel up to where they would stop, as indicated by the zip-tie, when the forks are fully compressed under hard breaking.

In either case, you just measure the distance and adjust the wheel to that position. you dont trust the zip tie while removing the spring or moving the fork because it can move so easily... you always measure first.

[Doctorbass]

So how to obtain an accurate real-world measurement if you need one?  What I would do is to place a zip-tie around the sliding fork tube at the top of the slider then slam on the brakes to see where the zip-tie ends up. That will tell you the maximum movement of the front wheel under real world riding conditions. Then remove the springs and slide the wheel upward until the sliding tube reaches the location of the zip-tie and see where it ends up in relation to the charger box. If the tire does not hit the box then you are home free.  From what I see in the video, it looks to me that the tire will not move far enough upward to hit the charger - but I could be wrong and the clearance really needs to be verified.

I also used Zip tie and it worked well so far from now the zip tie only go as low as 1.25" from the bottom of the fork piston.

I have riden my Zero with my wife and together we never had the wheel or fender hitting the 4th charger yet. that is a great new!!

btw you also have to take account that the fork bend a little bit too when braking so if you hit a bump or a hole while braking these conditions are the most probable where you could hit the charger with the wheel, but it did not hapenend yet after 1200km of run with it.

I will install 2 little 60mm square fan on the heatsink upper area as it get warm faster than the pan. i have found great fan rated IP68K for debrit and water ingress certification on digikey at 14$ each, however they require 24V.. so i will use a little 2$ chineese Aliexpress dc-dc converter to boost the voltage from 12 to 24Vdc.

If some are interested here is the Digikey part number: P19879-ND
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/nmb-technologies-corporation/06025VA-24Q-CA-00/P19879-ND/6204941

Doc










Doc