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[heroto]

Factory lowered suspension options are offered by many manufacturers. Some motos have popular aftermarket options. Anyone know of a Zero DS lowering option?

"I don't need it and therefore neither do you" would not be a helpful response.

[Say10 15FX 16FXS]

This may be an option
 
https://m.ebay.com/itm/MIZU-lowering-kit-for-Honda-CRF1000L-Africa-Twin-from-15-model-Zero-FXS-DSR/122636684320?epid=831544440&hash=item1c8db74c20:g:NO8AAOSwIwJZiYen&_trkparms=gclientid%3DwCfJLUr5PfL-WqcMrJhDuZtaSxhOUA3TbhvwwDee-RMfQUryTrh_kNftCEv75Yad&_trksid=p2489528.m4335.l8656

[heroto]

Thanks.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Did anyone try this?

I discovered a permanent resource URL for that:
https://www.mizu-shop.de/en/motorbike-parts/chassis-technology/lowering-kits/?modelAttributeFilter%5Boxhersteller%5D=ZERO&modelAttributeFilter%5Boxhubraum%5D=&modelAttributeFilter%5Boxmodell%5D=&modelAttributeFilter%5Boxbaujahr%5D=

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I've linked this at https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Zero_Aftermarket#Lowering_Kit for now.

[vinceherman]

"I don't need it and therefore neither do you" would not be a helpful response.

This cracks me up!  That has been the standard reply to discussions about cruise control.

[NEW2elec]

On my 13 DS I brought the forks up an inch above the top triple clamp, lowering the front end.
On the rear with the bike jacked up I dropped the adjustment screw ring to compress the spring a bit more.  It gave it a more level and lower ride.  I did this as a completely new rider and wouldn't bother with it now.  I did bring the fork legs to 1/2 inch up but it does make swinging my leg over easier having it just a bit lower.

My 17 looks like the mud fender sits up too high so I couldn't bring up the fork legs without the back of the guard hitting the bike.

I know so many people feel they need to "flat foot" at a stop and it's not a bad thing and for a new rider on a gas bike with the gears and clutch I can see it being more important.  Zeros leave your left side free to do anything so you can pivot the bike with your right foot on the peg using the rear brake and just put your left foot down with no problem.
The bike can't stall and has more than enough torque to pull away from a dead stop even up hills.

 

[flattetyre]

It will make the bike handle crappy, and honestly, after seeing plenty of 11 and 12 year olds ride full size bikes at the motocross track (youtube to see how that's done) it seems likely that you probably don't need to lower it.

[gt13013]

Today I have studied a little bit the Mizu lowering kit that is specific to some Zero models (DSR and FXS, and probably also DS)
https://www.mizu-shop.de/en/motorbike-parts/chassis-technology/lowering-kits/MIZU-lowering-kit-30215012.html
In the above page, there is a link for an installation guide. From this guide and the observation of my original (FXS 2016) shock absorber, it appears that the Mizu ring replaces the original ring of the shock absorber.
Indeed, you can shorten a shock absorber by shortenning the spring, or keep the same spring, and increase the space between the two rings on which the spring rests. Mizu has chosen the second way.
It means that you need to dismount the shock absorber in order to place the Mizu ring, and you need to have (or to build) a device in order to compress the spring (see for instance the Mizu spring compactor at the bottom of the Mizu lowering kit page). Note that Mizu can do the job for you. 

[Richard230]

Today I have studied a little bit the Mizu lowering kit that is specific to some Zero models (DSR and FXS, and probably also DS)
https://www.mizu-shop.de/en/motorbike-parts/chassis-technology/lowering-kits/MIZU-lowering-kit-30215012.html
In the above page, there is a link for an installation guide. From this guide and the observation of my original (FXS 2016) shock absorber, it appears that the Mizu ring replaces the original ring of the shock absorber.
Indeed, you can shorten a shock absorber by shortenning the spring, or keep the same spring, and increase the space between the two rings on which the spring rests. Mizu has chosen the second way.
It means that you need to dismount the shock absorber in order to place the Mizu ring, and you need to have (or to build) a device in order to compress the spring (see for instance the Mizu spring compactor at the bottom of the Mizu lowering kit page). Note that Mizu can do the job for you.

But once you shorten the rear shock, you will also need to raise the forks in the triple clamps to shorten their length by the same amount. And when you do that, the side stand might end up too long and will stand up the bike too upright to make it sufficiently stable. Once you make one change in suspension, you usually need to make other changes. And some of those changes might not be all that easy to make and/or might result in other issues.

[gt13013]

Yes Richard, on my FXS I have shortened the shock absorber, raised the fork in the triple clamps by 23 mm, and replaced the side stand by a shorter one.

[Richard230]

Yes Richard, on my FXS I have shortened the shock absorber, raised the fork in the triple clamps by 23 mm, and replaced the side stand by a shorter one.

That should do it.    The only thing anyone performing this modification also needs to check is that the movement of the rear wheel when the shorter stroke suspension fully compresses doesn't hit the under side of the rear fender (or worse yet, the controller) and that the front wheel doesn't hit the battery cover or some other component behind the wheel when fully compressed.

[TheRan]

All the new spring perch is doing is sitting the shock further down in its travel (the same as a shorter spring), it will still bottom out and hit the bump stop at the same point.

[Yamanatc]

Maybe I'm missing something here, but rather than actually shortening the shock, all the updated spring perch does is reduce spring tension and increase sag (depending on preload adjustment).

Just dropping the front forks turns the cornering handling to crap at lower speeds (oversteer), and does not increase the rake when braking and the rear shock is unloaded enough to top out. The added sag would increase rake due to spring tension and not mechanical compensation under regular shock loading conditions.

If an internal top-out spacer/travel limiter were installed internally, the spring perch would bring the spring rate back into stock range, and increase rake back closer to stock. Another alternative would be to reposition the mounting point(s) of the standard shock, but that would take altering the swingarm, frame, or both; a last resort.

I have little choice but figure out how to drop the seat height; after a very major lower back surgery, it is all I can do to get a leg up far enough to get on without a step, and I look like a drunk getting off. The bike is a '21 S.