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[mrwilsn]

I hope this hasn't been asked before on this thread (I looked but couldn't find an answer), but what is the voltage cutoff for the battery system on the Zero when the pack is depleted?

Cutoff is between 88V and 91V depending on cell balance....that's resting voltage....voltage can go a little lower under load.  If cell balance is high then bike cuts off at a higher voltage.  For newer bikes (starting in 2015 I think) the bike will show 0% battery at about 95-96V.  From 95-96V down to 88-91V is your reserve.  This is the other advantage of knowing exact voltage....when you get to "0%" you know how close you are to the voltage where the bike will actually cut off.

[Richard230]

I hope this hasn't been asked before on this thread (I looked but couldn't find an answer), but what is the voltage cutoff for the battery system on the Zero when the pack is depleted?

Cutoff is between 88V and 91V depending on cell balance....that's resting voltage....voltage can go a little lower under load.  If cell balance is high then bike cuts off at a higher voltage.  For newer bikes (starting in 2015 I think) the bike will show 0% battery at about 95-96V.  From 95-96V down to 88-91V is your reserve.  This is the other advantage of knowing exact voltage....when you get to "0%" you know how close you are to the voltage where the bike will actually cut off.

Thanks, I didn't know that.

[togo]

> @TOGO, the latest firmware can mess up your average rider as well. Immagine the breaker is shared and trips for some reason and you go out ant the bike shows 75% but is at 97v... big trouble ahead if you dont have an outlet near by. This happened to me the other day on a bike I was working on. It read 48% but was at 96v.

> also @ 20 miles range... while riding a bike 2 days ago to the factory, the range stayed at a constant 68 miles for the last 20 miles then started to increase. All the while the voltage was going down. The factory is only 50/60 miles from me.

> So this is kind of important for EVERYONE with the new firmware. Not just geeks like us. But for those of us that have the old firmware it is still super important for road tripping when you are getting low or fast charging so you can better guage your range and charge time.

Oh, yeah, good points!

[MrDude_1]

Just a random thoughts from re-watching that video just now.

Do you have all of the gauge display data figured out?
I mean, if someone wanted to build a custom dash now, do you have everything from the CAN bus figured out so that they could build one?

and what color is your bike? Im back to building my CR500 supermoto and going with Polaris Yellow Pearl ( aka florescent Yellow  vid for color: https://youtu.be/aubMQbZmqOs?t=389 )
I noticed the glow on your bike... is it a similar hyperbright color and the camera has trouble picking it up?

I know, I know... super trick ODBII hacking thread, and I end up asking what color the bike is... lol

[skoleskibe]

Just a random thoughts from re-watching that video just now.

Do you have all of the gauge display data figured out?
I mean, if someone wanted to build a custom dash now, do you have everything from the CAN bus figured out so that they could build one?

and what color is your bike? Im back to building my CR500 supermoto and going with Polaris Yellow Pearl ( aka florescent Yellow  vid for color: https://youtu.be/aubMQbZmqOs?t=389 )
I noticed the glow on your bike... is it a similar hyperbright color and the camera has trouble picking it up?

I know, I know... super trick ODBII hacking thread, and I end up asking what color the bike is... lol

Back to topic[emoji13]
I wonder, why not just use a 12v voltmeter, using a voltage divider betw B- & B+.
Some voltmeter have three connections, gnd, 12v and a connection to probe the actual voltage. Thus lets say you have a 10kOhm  voltage divider at 1:10 the voltmeter would read 11.6 at fully charged battery, and only providing readuot when the DC DC converter is active ie the bike is on. The power draw on the battery , through the voltage divider will be next to nothing. The whole setup would cost perhaps 10$


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Emtkopan]

On my old motorcycle, I installed a small voltmeter since I had so much connected draining the battery. Of course this being an all electric bike I'm curious if that would work as well? It's not as high tech but at least it would give you an idea of the voltage constantly.

[Erasmo]

You can read it out with more stats via this app.

[Electric Cowboy]

Hey guys, strapping a volt meter on your pack works too if you have the balls to have unfused improperly inulated wires running through your bike.

I did it for a while... Terry did it for a while... Togo still has one... Its possible, and easy, if your cool when you vaporize something

Remember, just because we hackers do something doesnt mean it is a good idea The good ideas do end up making it into products like this though once we figure out how to do it safely.

@custom dash, yup, a custom dash is totally doable.

[togo]

> I wonder, why not just use a 12v voltmeter, using a voltage divider betw B- & B+.

Cuz you can easily get a 120vdc meter on ebay.  I've got one wired up.

> You can read it out with more stats via this app.

Anton's Zero Voltage app is awesome, and a bargain at $4.99

[Richard230]

> I wonder, why not just use a 12v voltmeter, using a voltage divider betw B- & B+.

Cuz you can easily get a 120vdc meter on ebay.  I've got one wired up.

> You can read it out with more stats via this app.

Anton's Zero Voltage app is awesome, and a bargain at $4.99

Is there someplace to temporarily connect a voltmeter without having to take apart the bike?  On my 2012 Zero all I had to do was to remove the accessory charging connection cap on the right side of the bike to access a location where you could check the bike's voltage.

[hein]

>> Anton's Zero Voltage app is awesome, and a bargain at $4.99

Thanks for the hint! I downloaded and tried today. Looks good - Clean, Clear.

I needed it yesterday, when I ran out of battery for the first time after 12,000 miles with my 8.5Kwh 2013 Zero-S

I knew I was pushing it, leaving @ 7 bars, needing 7 in eco doing 70 to get the 32 mile to work with 29 highway.
I was likely to get into the last flashing bar.

Somehow I thought there was a 'hidden' 12th bar as reserve, but no!

With 1/2 mile of highway left the last bar went blank and speed dropped rapidly 70 - 60 - 50.
Guess I forgot to take the slight uphill over the last mile into account.
I had to wait for a big break in traffic to somewhat safely cross 3 lanes @ 30 for my left exit, with still a mile to go.
Speed dropped to 20 .. 15 or so on the long exit ramp, but it seemed happier at 10, so that's what I did... scary!
Stopped at hotel with outside wall outlet and charged for 10 minutes before finishing the last 1/2 mile @40.

btw... going all out at 80 - 85 (along with traffic in 55 zone ?!) I use 9 out of 11 bars, with a minor heat warning on last slight uphill.
So I need to charge at work to get back home.  When the outlet at work was done for a few weeks I had to use side roads.
At 40 .. 45 Mph, I need just over 5 bars and I can make it out and back to work with 65+ miles and 1 or 2 bars flashing at me.

[Shadow]

Is there someplace to temporarily connect a voltmeter without having to take apart the bike?  On my 2012 Zero all I had to do was to remove the accessory charging connection cap on the right side of the bike to access a location where you could check the bike's voltage.

Same idea applies to MY2013+ you can measure voltage at the AUX charging port, it is "live" through a medium sized fuse (100A+ depending on model year). The parts to order are APP SBS75XBRN and the crimp pins, you don't need the hybrid signal pins in the middle (3-5Vdc logic for charging enable), but you could probably get clever and stuff some kind of low-amp mini fuse holder inside that kind of connector shell for mitigating a high-amperage short and damage that medium size charging fuse. Anderson Power Products plugs like this are rated for generous connect/disconnect cycles and are easy to pin/un-pin with basic hand tools.

If you're comfortable sticking DMM leads into things, uh... those contacts on the AUX charging connector are pretty easy to get to, but of course the warning goes it's high voltage and gonna be a bad time if you stick two fingers in there.

[Richard230]

Is there someplace to temporarily connect a voltmeter without having to take apart the bike?  On my 2012 Zero all I had to do was to remove the accessory charging connection cap on the right side of the bike to access a location where you could check the bike's voltage.

Same idea applies to MY2013+ you can measure voltage at the AUX charging port, it is "live" through a medium sized fuse (100A+ depending on model year). The parts to order are APP SBS75XBRN and the crimp pins, you don't need the hybrid signal pins in the middle (3-5Vdc logic for charging enable), but you could probably get clever and stuff some kind of low-amp mini fuse holder inside that kind of connector shell for mitigating a high-amperage short and damage that medium size charging fuse. Anderson Power Products plugs like this are rated for generous connect/disconnect cycles and are easy to pin/un-pin with basic hand tools.

If you're comfortable sticking DMM leads into things, uh... those contacts on the AUX charging connector are pretty easy to get to, but of course the warning goes it's high voltage and gonna be a bad time if you stick two fingers in there.

Thanks for the information, but clever I am not when it comes to anything electrical. So I think I will pass and just depend on the Zero app. 

[Rugby4life]

I've been using the Zero Voltage app for about 8 months. I have it displayed on my tablet mounted on the handlebars and use it for instant feedback on energy consumption/recovery. I also set my trip2 to read whr/mile. I have learned that a 10% movement of the throttle at backroad cruising speed doesn't net much of a speed increase but consumption rises drastically. I've also discovered how lightly I can apply the brakes and still get maximum regen. Based on what I've learned, I run my custom mode with 100% top speed, torque, and brake regen, while using 0% coasting regen. I get all the performance of sport mode but my whr/mile has dropped from 115 to 90-95. One thing that really surprised me was how pitifully small the coasting harvesting was in sport mode (factory set at 30%). That app has made me a much better Zero rider.

[Richard230]

I've been using the Zero Voltage app for about 8 months. I have it displayed on my tablet mounted on the handlebars and use it for instant feedback on energy consumption/recovery. I also set my trip2 to read whr/mile. I have learned that a 10% movement of the throttle at backroad cruising speed doesn't net much of a speed increase but consumption rises drastically. I've also discovered how lightly I can apply the brakes and still get maximum regen. Based on what I've learned, I run my custom mode with 100% top speed, torque, and brake regen, while using 0% coasting regen. I get all the performance of sport mode but my whr/mile has dropped from 115 to 90-95. One thing that really surprised me was how pitifully small the coasting harvesting was in sport mode (factory set at 30%). That app has made me a much better Zero rider.

Your experience and drive setup is the same as mine. Except that I don't use the Zero app while riding. I find looking at it distracts from my riding experience - and safety while moving, as it takes me a while to focus from distance to the display.