Good questions. My strong advice, be very careful! There are separate isolated power circuits on the Zero. Shorting the wrong things together can cause very costly damage, like requiring a replacement MBB (~$400) or BMS(~$500) or even controller ($$$$). If I knew the voltages they would be on the diagram, so I can only guess or probe them myself which I hesitate to do because it is risky. I did all my work on the diagram with no power anywhere, just an ohmmeter. Nothing on the Zero electronics is connected to chassis except one wire from the packs, shown in green, probably used to measure isolation. The 12V stuff shown in blue has its own "ground" shown in brown but it is not connected to chassis. The rest is mostly referenced to the battery negative shown in violet but it can be 5V, 12V or 100V circuits. Battery negative could be any voltage relative to chassis due to leakage or low isolation in the packs.The MBB needs to know about the 12v things like the brake light, but I think it uses opto isolators to do that. The MBB runs on 100V power that is ALWAYS ON from the pack (pin 18). That makes it really easy to do damage because it is live even when the bike is keyed off. Even with the packs removed, there will be stored charge in the motor controller. So for safety you should both remove the packs and discharge the system before checking any wiring issue. I use a light bulb across the aux charge port. It is possible to probe circuits while they are on of course, but it must be done with extreme care. The high DC voltage and potential high fault currents make doing that much more difficult and dangerous than on a conventional 12V gas bike.