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[Wolfsbane]

As those of us who have the Tesla adapter for the J1772 modular connector from DigiNow are probably aware, the adapter doesn't work on the new version of the Tesla wall connector. Apparently, Tesla incorporated some kind of authentication protocol or "handshake" into v2 of the wall connector. Fortunately, there is a way around this. Unfortunately, it requires you to kill power from the breaker to the wall connector and take the wall connector apart with security torx screws. Anyway, inside the HPWC (high power wall connector) are two small dip switches. The switch on the left is to choose between a 240v and greater line to neutral installation or a 240v and less line to line installation. Although the installation manual doesn't tell you this, the dip switch on the right is for the electronic "handshake". Simply flip the switch to the down position and the wall connector will act like any normal charger allowing you to use a J1772 adapter to run your DigiNow Supercharger and fast charge your Zero!

I recognize that this is not an ideal fix for being able to access all the Tesla HPWC's in the wild as tampering with property that doesn't belong to you is generally frowned upon in polite society, but it a solution for those who are hoping to use the Tesla HPWC at home to charge both their current or future Tesla vehicles and their Zero or other EVs.

[Erasmo]

In the latter case you'd be better of with a J1772 plug and adapter to Tesla.

[Wolfsbane]

In my case I wanted to take advantage of the HPWC's 80amp delivery on a 100amp circuit and load sharing ability for multiple Teslas.

[mistasam]

Good to know, thanks for the info.  So we'd need some kind of proprietary Tesla handshake to use the new destination chargers?

[Wolfsbane]

Good to know, thanks for the info.  So we'd need some kind of proprietary Tesla handshake to use the new destination chargers?

Unless you can flip that second dip switch down, unfortunately the answer is yes. If you ask sweetly maybe the owner of the destination charger would let you open it up to access the switch, but that's a big IF and you'd have to have the security torx heads with you. You'd also need to be able to kill power to the destination charger before tinkering around in there.

It might be easier if one of our more resourceful members could figure out a way to emulate the handshake.

[mistasam]

Isn't the handshake built into the DigiNow adapter?



Or was this the v1 charger?

[MrDude_1]

Isn't the handshake built into the DigiNow adapter?



Or was this the v1 charger?

no.
The "normal" Tesla connector is just J1772 with a different physical connector. There is no data handshake, just a few voltages to signal.
The NEW Tesla connector has some kind of handshake on the data/signal line. It is still J1772 compatible on the car, but if the EVSE requires it, it will not work.

The ideal solution is that tesla does not do something underhanded like that. However it is too late for that.
The next best thing, is that the diginow emulates the Tesla EVs in doing both the handshake and working on standard J1772 chargers.

Currently... you could just set the NEW tesla station to work on all devices.

[Wolfsbane]

Isn't the handshake built into the DigiNow adapter?



Or was this the v1 charger?

It isn't. And yes, that's a v1 charger.

[Wolfsbane]

Currently... you could just set the NEW tesla station to work on all devices.

It's a shame Tesla doesn't even give that option in the installation manual. It only states that the second dip switch should ALWAYS be in the up position. I would have tried it sooner, in fact my electrician wanted to, but I was afraid of harming the wall connector by defying the instructions. So much for a company that loves to boast about its commitment to advancing sustainable transport for everyone and "open patents". 🙄

[togo]

As those of us who have the Tesla adapter for the J1772 modular connector from DigiNow are probably aware, the adapter doesn't work on the new version of the Tesla wall connector. Apparently, Tesla incorporated some kind of authentication protocol or "handshake" into v2 of the wall connector. Fortunately, there is a way around this. Unfortunately, it requires you to kill power from the breaker to the wall connector and take the wall connector apart with security torx screws. Anyway, inside the HPWC (high power wall connector) are two small dip switches. The switch on the left is to choose between a 240v and greater line to neutral installation or a 240v and less line to line installation. Although the installation manual doesn't tell you this, the dip switch on the right is for the electronic "handshake". Simply flip the switch to the down position and the wall connector will act like any normal charger allowing you to use a J1772 adapter to run your DigiNow Supercharger and fast charge your Zero!

I recognize that this is not an ideal fix for being able to access all the Tesla HPWC's in the wild as tampering with property that doesn't belong to you is generally frowned upon in polite society, but it a solution for those who are hoping to use the Tesla HPWC at home to charge both their current or future Tesla vehicles and their Zero or other EVs.

Do you have the 3-pin connector on your T-inlet?

If so, I'll send you one of the potted circuits I've been making to test for the cost of shipping.

[Булгаков]

I am very interested to hear more about this. I tried googling, but have not yet found any information about Tesla's authentication (beyond the standard J1772 resistance signaling for available power levels).

I have meant to make a Tesla adaptor for my DubJay setup for a while, but have not started yet. If anyone can point me to any more technical details I would appreciate it.

[togo]

The story is that the new Tesla destination stations, all the ones installed in the last 6 months or so, require a 10+ second pause between Vehicle Present and Vehicle Ready To Charge.  I think Electric Terry was saying there's an outer limit, but I don't recall what it is.

Vehicle Present is represented by a diode and a 2.7k resistor from Pilot to Ground.  Vehicle Ready To Charge is represented by an additional 1.3k in parallel to the first.  (There's also a third state that requires ventilation for lead acid batteres, which is irrelevant to us.)

Up until now a lot of EVs have implemented J-inlet and T-inlet signalling by simply going straight to Vehicle Ready To Charge, a simple diode and resistor.  Cheap and simple.

I've implemented a manual delay between the states this by adding a switch with a rubber cover and a pair of 2.7k resistors that are brought in in parallel to the first 2.7k resistor and I've tested it at the only station I know of that requires the delay.  I normally have the switch in Ready To Charge (on), but if that fails, I unplug, switch to off (Vehicle Present), count eleven seconds in my head ("it goes to eleven!", haha), and switch to Ready To Charge. 

Mechanically, I potted the whole thing, in a little plastic container along with a 1/4 bolt for secure mounting.  I'll post a picture of one of my incarnations, and I assume the above is enough for you to google the schematics yourself.  I think the one from evtv is the clearest as to what's going on.

In my photo you'll see the connector, which matches the one on my T-inlet.  If your T-inlet doesn't have that connector, my little brick won't work for you.  I imagine the various vendors who make the T-inlets will be integrating a switch or a timer.

I'm not aware of any J1772 that require the delay, though honoring the two states is part of the protocol.  Let me know if you know of any.

[Булгаков]

I see. Both of my J1772 adaptors I've made have a switch to signal vehicle present vs. vehicle ready to charge, so adding a straight-thru T-inlet should work fine. I was worried that there was more to it.

I can't remember where, but I have definitely run into a very few J1772 stations that gave me an error when I plugged with with the switch already set to charge, so I'm glad I already have that circuit.

Also, because I charge with multiple chargers in parallel, it's nice to be able to temporarily pause the EVSE by flipping the switch and plug/unplug a charger not under load, and then re-enable to continue charging without starting a new payment session.
Especially at low battery voltage (20% SoC), in my setup with all chargers, the higher amperage will exceed the 93% 1C charge limit (93A or 94A) and the bike will open the contactor, so I leave unplugged one of the 1kW chargers until the battery is above 60% SoC and voltage has risen, then add that last 1kW charger and I can get 92A charge rate on my 2014 10kWh Zero.

[mistasam]

Whoa, awesome!  You guys are a great wealth of information 

So attaching a Tesla inlet straight to the DigiNows is a good way to go?

[Wolfsbane]

As those of us who have the Tesla adapter for the J1772 modular connector from DigiNow are probably aware, the adapter doesn't work on the new version of the Tesla wall connector. Apparently, Tesla incorporated some kind of authentication protocol or "handshake" into v2 of the wall connector. Fortunately, there is a way around this. Unfortunately, it requires you to kill power from the breaker to the wall connector and take the wall connector apart with security torx screws. Anyway, inside the HPWC (high power wall connector) are two small dip switches. The switch on the left is to choose between a 240v and greater line to neutral installation or a 240v and less line to line installation. Although the installation manual doesn't tell you this, the dip switch on the right is for the electronic "handshake". Simply flip the switch to the down position and the wall connector will act like any normal charger allowing you to use a J1772 adapter to run your DigiNow Supercharger and fast charge your Zero!

I recognize that this is not an ideal fix for being able to access all the Tesla HPWC's in the wild as tampering with property that doesn't belong to you is generally frowned upon in polite society, but it a solution for those who are hoping to use the Tesla HPWC at home to charge both their current or future Tesla vehicles and their Zero or other EVs.

Do you have the 3-pin connector on your T-inlet?

If so, I'll send you one of the potted circuits I've been making to test for the cost of shipping.

Indeed mine is a 3-pin. I'd be interested to try your solution.