I documented my install for Brian Rice so he can also put this on the wiki. There was a wiki section for crash bar install already and it was very useful, here's just some more detailed pics and amplifying info.
This install is on a 2016 SR but is applicable to other models. When you buy the kit from your zero dealer ($250 and they drop ship from Zero to your house), it comes with everything you need including hardware. No instructions though. Part name from Zero is: Frame protection bar 08123XX Accessories Kit Non Police. The kit includes, bars, cross brace, angle brackets for upper mounts, and metal skid plate. MY16 has a plastic skidplate and it needs to be replaced with the metal one. There is no way to mount bottom mounts without the metal pate, they mount into the plate itself, not the Zero frame. Other years and models may already have the metal skid plate. To verify yours is compatible, look for 2 mounting threaded holes on the side, they should have plastic caps covering them. If they do, you're golden, just pry off the caps, no need to use plate that came with kit. If you have metal plate and no holes, you'll need to install the new plate.
Here's what the kit looks like:
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/7766/eprfjt.jpgThis picture shows brackets mounted on the bars on each side, most likely for police sirens or lights. Mine purchased in Jul 17 did not have these as shown in the picture, mine only had one on the left side. See below:
http://imageshack.com/a/img924/2172/a6Mo9C.jpgHere's what you get for hardware. It had correct screws but odd numbers of washers, so had to guess where they went and also get 2 compression washers from my hardware bin. Upper angle brackets take 2 screws each and there were only 2 washers for them in the kit.
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/822/cVNGm2.jpgHere's what you need for tools. I strongly recommend using a ratchet with allen socket to remove the skidplate. You can't get enough torque unscrewing the 8 plate screws with the hand allen. All my screws were in so tight it took a lot of force to get them to move. One stripped out very easy. I had to use a screw extractor to get it out. So be careful removing the plate screws. Here's what I used, a 3mm allen socket: Depending on your socket length, you might have to remove the side plastics to get at the 2 front plate screws, the bikes front plastic cover is close to the plate so not a lot of room to get a socket in there. There are 3 allen screws holding the side plastics on, very easy to remove them.
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/5263/NsVKDg.jpgSo, first step is to remove the plastic skid plate and install the new metal plate. Simple, mounts same as the plastic one. You will be reusing the 3mm allen screws that were holding in the plastic plate.
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/410/r5yLIB.jpgNext step is to unbolt the entire horn bracket. It is mounted with one hex bolt and a lock nut. Place it to the side or just let it hang while you install the cross brace. You'll be putting it back after you are done installing the kit.
Locate the upper bracket threaded holes in the frame. They are just below the tank plastic abeam the ZF13 sticker. This is where you will mount the two angle brackets that came in the kit. They can only go in one way, slide them in from behind the fork. Use 2 screws each side with washers. The serrated washers fit on the screws so I guessed those were what I needed to use. The kit came with only 2 so I had to get 2 more. Use a 7mm deep socket to tighten them but DON'T fully tighten them yet. Leave the brackets loose, you'll need to get everything assembled loose, then tighten all at the end. Note, this pic shows the location after bracket installation, before it was just an open threaded holes.
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/9254/CpgZFw.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img922/9481/XN5Edp.jpgNext step is to attach cross brace pipe to the brackets. You will orient the bar inward up close to the front plastic cover. I slid the 2 large bolts in just to hold it in place till I was ready to finish tightening.
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/2521/xciOXa.jpgNow for the bars. Best to have someone help you. My wife held bar up while I installed the bottom bracket screws in lightly. For these I used 2 of the remaining 10mm bolts and flat washers. Mount the lower mount into the two threaded holes in the skid plate side. Again leave these loose. I used a ratchet and 10mm deep socket for the outside screw and a 10mm box wrench for the inside screw. The socket wont work on the inside, not enough room for it.
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/5285/ARSJfn.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img922/9824/SpAclp.jpgNow that the bottom mounts are in loose (assistant still holding them upright in place for you), next step is installing the bars to the cross brace. If you didn't leave all the other mounts loose, you will not be able to get the big bolts lined up with the threaded hole in the bars. Loosen them more if you cant get it in and wiggle cross brace and bar till you get them lined up. Hand thread the bolts to get them started, then use a 13mm socket to tighten them up all the way.
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/327/NGJQJS.jpgNow go thru and tighten the top bracket screws and bottom mount screws tight. I don't know what torque is required, I just tightened them real snug.
http://imageshack.com/a/img924/2361/tHWgYe.jpgLast step is to reinstall the horn. It cannot go in same orientation as before because the cross brace is in the way. I loosened the bolt where the horn mounts to the horn mounting bracket, ans swiveled it around until the bracket lined up again with the mounting point on the bike. here's how my orientation looked when done.
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/9514/zlgcHV.jpgPlan 30 mins for the install, hardest part was removing the skid plate. Here's the final product:
http://imageshack.com/a/img924/2172/a6Mo9C.jpgMany ask, why install the bars, well there are several reasons, if your bike tips over you can minimize damage. Just this past Sunday I went on a group ride. When we finished at the brewery, I parked the bike and in my excitement, forgot to put the plate under my kickstand. An hour later when I was leaving, the kickstand had sunk 1" into the pavement from the hot sun and the bike would have fell over soon if I hadn't caught it in time. Second, and a primary reason for me is I am installing Lighting Strike LED collision avoidance lights on the bars. As we all know the dreaded left turn in front of us is the biggest concern. With these lights when you see a car at an intersection (or an car that might be an issue), you push a button on your left handgrip that momentarily flashes/alternates the lights. They really stand out and make yourself visible.
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/877/uqxym0.pngThe picture doesn't do these justice, go to their website,
www.getlightningstrike.com and watch the videos. For Zeros, these are the same lights the police models use, except they come in just white and amber. I chose amber because it really stands out in the daytime. If you ride a lot at night, the white might be a better choice for you. When you order, choose the model for a 1" bar, and in comments put that these will be going on a Zero, so the owner can send you Zero specific installation instructions.
You can also mount aftermarket horns on the bars and storage pouches, which I plan to do. When I want a drink or a place to put sunglasses, etc, I don't want to have to stop and open a top or side case, so I'm having 2 small vinyl pouches made that with fit on the backside of the bar loops facing me so I can just reach in and get what I need. Took a test ride with the new bars, I can easily reach down and grab something from a pouch mounted bar.
Others have mounted dignow modules on the bars, there are so many options for these, they simply are a welcome accessory one can easily add to the Zero.
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Topic: Crash Bar install on 2016 SR (Read 1978 times)