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[nigezero]

I added a similar hack but connect directly to the battery terminals to bypass the fuse. I used a 100A 120V breaker that I had lying around which fits nicely under the tank area. They are expensive and not IP rated but, I have pretty much enclosed that area now using rubber sheet. So far so good.

[Булгаков]

I added a similar hack but connect directly to the battery terminals to bypass the fuse. I used a 100A 120V breaker that I had lying around which fits nicely under the tank area. They are expensive and not IP rated but, I have pretty much enclosed that area now using rubber sheet. So far so good.

Yeah, I wanted to find a breaker instead of a fuse, but it was difficult to find a high-amperage DC-rated breaker locally and inexpensive. Oh well. I guess an extra fuse is cheap to toss in saddle bags for now.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I've updated the wiki manual with a link to this thread among various clarifications:
http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Advanced_Modifications#Charging_Through_Sevcon_Controller

[Булгаков]

Well,
As Terry predicted, this fuse holder is not for continuous usage.
It worked fine for many charges at 33A continuous, without any noticeable heat.

I started using it at 66A, and after the 10th time, it both melted the housing and blew the AGU fuse (which was rated 100A).

Anyways, I've already ordered replacement JLLS -100 fuse from Mouser (576-JLLS100.V). Many thanks for the advice, especially to Lenny who pointed out this fuse.

For others wanting to do this same project: bolt holes on JLLS-100 are 7.1mm, so I ordered these Molex crimp wire terminals Mouser part# 538-19221-0231 (4AWG, hole is 5/16" 7.94mm).