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[ESokoloff]

Bringing this thread back from the dead.  Does anyone know if the factory bearings for the newer S/DS wheels have a standard internal clearance spec (C0)?  I'm planning a preventative maintenance replacement of the wheel bearings in the next few weeks, and the C3 spec bearings are much easier to find than the C0 bearings (and cheaper).

Here's some bearing info...

Keep in mind that these are 6204-RS which are
(6) Single-Row Deep Groove Ball Bearing,
(2) Light Duty,
(04) 20mm (x 47mm x 14mm),
(RS) Single Sided Sealed,
(& I'm sure C3 & ABEC1).

Unfortunately the 47mm I.D. on the wheel bore limits this size bearing to (2) Light Duty design/constructed.

http://www.gizmology.net/bearings.htm

https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/article/why-are-your-bearings-c3

http://www.ntnamericas.com/en/pdf/2200/brgclear.pdf

https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/article/deep-groove-ball-bearings

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/ABEC_scale

[ESokoloff]

I started a thread on Parts, Mods And Hacks that I'll include here to insure Max views/participation but please respond there......

So at 40+k miles it's time to start planning on bearing replacement.
I have a 2003 BMW R1150RT with 144k miles on the original bearings so I'm a bit disappointed.

I'm going to procure new dust seals from the dealer however it looks like there are only 3 (2 for front & 1 for rear).
I assume that the wheel speed sensor contains an O-ring that acts as a seal?
If so, does anyone know it's dimensions?

To remove the bearings will this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIPRNA4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 work sufficiently?

If not I'll pick up a puller from Harbor Freight as it's reasonable priced with good reviews.
https://www.harborfreight.com/Slide-Hammer-and-Bearing-Puller-Set-5-Pc-62601.html

I would rather go with the first as it's less expensive & wont take up much space.


What bearing manufactures have you used?
I'll be looking at procurement from reputable sources from reputable manufacturers.
Planing on keeping the bike for awhile & hoping to get higher mileage from the next set so I'm not looking for bargains. 

I don't think ceramic is the way to go as the manufacturer (Zero) has limited selection to light duty and I'm not convinced they will last

[Fran K]

Isn't a 620x bearing heavier duty than a 630x bearing?  It has larger outer diameter for a given inner diameter and larger balls.  The larger hollow axles often use lighter duty series at least in "dirt bikes" 

[ESokoloff]

Isn't a 620x bearing heavier duty than a 630x bearing?  .............

From the first link I posted at the top of this/page 2. ............

If the first digit is a number, however, it is a metric bearing, and the second digit is the series, which reflects the robustness of the bearing. The series are, from lightest to heaviest:
8   Extra thin section
9   Very thin section
0   Extra light
1   Extra light thrust
2   Light
3   Medium
4   Heavy
Yes, they go in that order. Gotta keep things simple, you know.

http://www.gizmology.net/bearings.htm

A #3 bearing takes a larger bore size that we don't have.   
The fact that Zero used a 20mm ID, 47mm OD on the shaft/wheel bore means we are stuck with a #2/Light Duty bearing as there's not enough real estate (bearing area) for a more robust bearing construction.

[Fran K]

Thanks for the correction.  A 6304 the medium duty one for a 20mm shaft will need a bigger pocket in the hub. 20x52x15.  What do you think would be better, a higher duty and larger hub or a lighter duty double row.  I seem to recall ktm dirt bike had a double row 0 or I seemed to recall 00.  It may be the sealing.  I changed to  after a sunday event to take the wheels off and pull what was needed to get the seals out and leave it to dry until Thursday,  I got old and stopped entering events but after that excessive maintance never did another wheel bearing. 

If the bearing has seals they peel off easy and the bearing can be really packed with waterproof grease. 

[nnelson65]

Just replaced my OG front wheel bearings with some Timken 6204-2RS C3 bearings I picked up...wow, I didn't know I needed to replace them so badly!!!  The low-speed handling is so much improved, it was almost shocking. 

The OGs had a small amount of play as-installed on the bike, but when removed I could not tell that they were significantly worn by feel until I removed the rubber seals.  64k miles seems like a fair life cycle

[ESokoloff]

............What do you think would be better, a higher duty and larger hub or a lighter duty double row.  I seem to recall ktm dirt bike had a double row 0 or I seemed to recall 00.  It may be the sealing. 
..............

Well, I’m not an expert on bearings (hence the solicitation of help from others)
That said, I would lean towards dbl row weaker bearing (4204) https://www.google.com/search?q=4204+bearing+dimensions&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS829US830&oq=4204+bear&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l3.13633j0j4&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

If the bearing has seals they peel off easy and the bearing can be really packed with waterproof grease.

Yeah, I had posted a video showing how to pop off a seal in order to turn a dbl seal bearing into a single seal. 

Depending on what I find during post-mortem (bearing removal/replacement) , I may come up with a maintenance procedure on the bearings during tire changes. 

[ESokoloff]

Just replaced my OG front wheel bearings .......

What is OG?
Original Goods?

[nnelson65]

OriGinal and a reference to Original Ganster, but I like Original Goods

Just replaced my OG front wheel bearings .......

What is OG?
Original Goods?

[Crissa]

OG also meant 'Ocean Grown' for outdoor propigation.

Anyhow, doesn't 'light duty' refer to the weight stress placed on the bearings; and a motorcycle is much, much lighter than many industrial uses?

-Crissa

[ESokoloff]

OG also meant 'Ocean Grown' for outdoor propigation.

Anyhow, doesn't 'light duty' refer to the weight stress placed on the bearings; and a motorcycle is much, much lighter than many industrial uses?

-Crissa

I'm still trying to wrap my head around this bearing situation.
Aparintly my 2003 BMW R1150RT also incorporates (#)2/light bearings on the front wheel yet has 100+k more miles then my 16 DSR Zero and those bearings are just now starting to complain.

My takeaway is to insure the replacement bearings are high quality.

[alby62]

BUONASERA  A TUTT vi scrivo dall'ìItalia  io ho una   ZERO D 2017   13  kw , ringrazio  in anticipo tutti per le  notizie  che  mi avete  rivelato, infatti stavo cercando le  misure  dei cuscinetti per la  ruota  posteriore  che  dopo  37000 km ha  cominciato a  rumoreggiare  e  a far diminuire l'autonomia  del 5 - 10%,   credo d'aver capito che  sulla  moto c' è il cuscinetto  6204 rs,  e   come  voi tutti   vorremmo sostituirlo con un  più  performanti,  20 - 47 - 15 , per cui si può solo inserire  uno a doppia  sigillature    ovvero  2 rs .
 non ho capito  se i cuscinetti sono 2 o solo 1 , 
 certo  che  rimango molto deluso del materiale  utilizzato,  io che  provengo  da  un  Moto Guzzi  Quota  1000 cc venduto con  200000 km sulle  spalle ,  a cui ho solo cambiato olio e  filtri  e il cardano a  175000 km , problemi ai cuscinetti ma avuti , e si che  era una  moto molto pesante , almeno   e faccio gli scongiuri... l'elettronica  funziona  bene .

[Crissa]

GOOD MORNING TO ALL I am writing to you from Italy I have a ZERO D 2017 13 kw, I thank everyone in advance for the news you have revealed to me, in fact I was looking for the sizes of the bearings for the rear wheel which after 37000 km started to rumble and make decrease the autonomy by 5 - 10%, I think I understand that on the bike there is the bearing 6204 rs, and as you all would like to replace it with a more performing one, 20 - 47 - 15, so you can only insert one double sealing or 2 rs.
  I didn't understand if the bearings are 2 or only 1,
  certain that I am very disappointed with the material used, I who come from a 1000 cc Moto Guzzi Quota sold with 200000 km on my shoulders, to which I only changed oil and filters and the cardan shaft at 175000 km, bearing problems but had, and that it was a very heavy motorbike, at least and I am averting ... electronics work well.

(Google Translate)

Did we find a solution?

-Crissa

[ESokoloff]

GOOD MORNING TO ALL I am writing to you from Italy........

(Google Translate)

Did we find a solution?

-Crissa

Thanks Crissa for the translation.


As previously stated

The fact that Zero used a 20mm ID, 47mm OD on the shaft/wheel bore means we are stuck with a #2/Light Duty bearing as there's not enough real estate (bearing area) for a more robust bearing construction.
 

And

My takeaway is to insure the replacement bearings are high quality.

https://translate.google.com/


927/5000
Purtroppo dobbiamo usare i cuscinetti 6204 (nessun altro si adatterà).
Ho una BMW R1150RT del 2003 che utilizza questi stessi cuscinetti nella ruota anteriore e che a 230 k miglia (230k km) stanno iniziando ad essere difficili.
Il mio Zero DSR del 2016 ha solo 41k miglia (66k km) e ha cuscinetti ruvidi, quindi penso che Zero non usi cuscinetti di alta qualità come BMW.
Le nostre motociclette Zero hanno due di questi cuscinetti nella ruota anteriore e tre nella ruota posteriore.
(Anche il braccio oscillante utilizza due di questi cuscinetti).

Il mio consiglio è di procurarsi i cuscinetti di ricambio della migliore qualità possibile e speriamo che durino MOLTO più a lungo degli originali.
Assicurarsi inoltre di sostituire le guarnizioni contemporaneamente (acquistare guarnizioni dal proprio rivenditore Zero ma ottenere i cuscinetti da un fornitore di cuscinetti).

Usa questo https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=3105&description=2016 Zero modelli di motociclette per vedere quali sono le parti e la loro posizione


Unfortunately we must use 6204 bearings (no others will fit).
I have a 2003 BMW R1150RT that uses these same bearings in the front wheel & at 143 k miles (230k km) they are just now starting to be rough).
My 2016 Zero DSR has only 41k miles (66k km) and has rough bearing (s) so I’m thinking Zero doesn’t use as high of quality bearings as does BMW.
Our Zero motorcycles have two of these bearings in the front wheel & three in the rear wheel.
(The swing arm also uses two of these bearings).

My advice is to source the best quality replacement bearings possible and hopefully they will last MUCH longer then the originals.
Also make sure to replace the seals at the same time (purchase seals from your Zero dealer but get the bearings from a bearing supplier).

Use this https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=3105&description=2016 Zero Motorcycle Models to see what the parts are & their location.

[ESokoloff]

alby62,

Quanto ti stringi la cinghia?
Sul mio 06 la tensione è di soli 20-30 kg e la registro al massimo (30 kg).
Il tuo 17 ha la cintura più ampia e una gamma di tensione molto più ampia.
Se si mette in tensione la cinghia vicino al punto più basso, è possibile considerare di rilassare / ridurre la tensione poiché una tensione eccessiva è più dura sui cuscinetti.
Ma sii incurante perché non è buono sulla cintura se la tensione è troppo lenta.

How tight do you run your drivebelt?
On my 06 the tension is only 20-30kg & I adjust it to the maximum(30kg).
Your 17 has the wider belt & a much wider tension range. 
If you tension the belt near the thightest, you might consider relaxing/decreasing the tension as excessive tension is harder on bearings.
But be carfure as its not good on the belt if the tension is too loose.