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[NEW2elec]

Brian depending on your tail section setup you might be able to bypass that "vortex" you felt with your higher screen.
I see your 13 is "sort of" up for sale were you going to post a price or just through PMs?

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Brian depending on your tail section setup you might be able to bypass that "vortex" you felt with your higher screen.

Yes, that is a good point and has been on my mind. It seems like it is so easy to put too much energy into the air and get a vortex that I should optimize for my current commute (85 miles per day) and take advantage of a tail when one is ready, which I cannot count on happening immediately (unless some preparation comes together very quickly).

I see your 13 is "sort of" up for sale were you going to post a price or just through PMs?

I'm not sure what to price it at yet, especially if I send it off for battery replacement first (which seems advisable).

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I'll test this two point mount on my commute and reposition and reinforce as needed. I can use my sliding brackets for the lower mount with a little fastener fiddling.

It is attractive if this continuous screen arrangement works out.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Here are my three Zero screens lined up.

Zero Commuter Screen (MRA) with MRA X-Screen spoiler, CalSci screen for BMW R1200RT, and Parabellum screen for BMW R1150R.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

At this point, in strong winter downpours in the SF Bay Area, I am strongly considering quickly putting together something like the Vetter Streamliner's "turret" piece using some ABS plastic fastened to the lower windscreen holes and the handlebars.

A single upper piece would provide both some weather shadowing for the instruments and a little basic bracing.

To get full drag reduction, a second piece would have to be flexibly joined to the first and held in a wedge cross sectional shape across the entire handlebar.

I'll see what I can dig up for this project. Maybe my Coroplast would be sufficient for a mockup, but it's easier to carve curved pieces out of ABS plastics.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I should note that I'm strongly concerned about the resilience of this design so I'm still critiquing the fairing mount understructure before I describe it in full and what I think it should be if others try it. It definitely holds the load well, but I'm checking on general fit and wear week by week to make sure I understand the factors involved.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Latest arrangement has a lower angle but I added a Laminar Lip to soften up the air to run over my head smoothly. Now I get much more reliably good drag figures.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Here are some early photos of the completed support structure. I use some very particular Dzus quarter turn quick release fasteners to attach the fairing to the structure, and added padded tape to reduce wear. And gave it some coats of flat black paint.

The design is more complicated than I'd like and I'd recommend an arrangement with one upper bar running the circumference and use lower bars on the sides to form a triangle just before the nose curves.

The crash bars are very sturdy as long as the frame bolts are well chosen and installed, but another support direction would help. The dustbin width is 21-22" vs the bars outer width of 28", which is why my mount cuts them short and makes them join in a different way.

The DBL1 (by contrast) can be supported by an aluminum bar running along the same plane as the crash bars themselves, holding up the nose along the top ridge, but requiring more effort creating and maintaining cutouts.

I think the Vetter nosecone could be supported by this latter method.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Photos from my first mount checks.

[Erasmo]

Looks like a good sturdy mount, it's good to see it coming together. It does appear to be very narrow, I'm guessing your margins on the side when turning must be really slim.

[ElectricZen]

Looking good Brian!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Thanks! I forgot to note that I grinded off the lower bar's forward loop. I feel bad that the fabricator went to a lot of trouble to get the bend right, but the clearance with the wheel was not sufficient at full swing. The framework is 6061 aluminum and about â…›" thick, so yes very sturdy, maybe too sturdy.

I have prepared CAD drawings outlining the cutout needed under the fairing for the DS wheel. The S wheel cuts a smaller but similar swath. I also have the mount measurements but not accurate plans for the crash bar modifications.

I'm still looking for a low front fender to reduce the splatter on the inside of the fairing and screen.

[grmarks]

I'm suddenly reminded that these kickstands are relatively weak and can bend under load sometimes (happened to my 13DS when a car backed into it and I recall a similar story or two). So maybe it's time to shop for a third party kickstand that fits the bill - I hope this can be done, anyway.

Isn't it better for the side stand to bend rather than the frame? Replacing a side stand is easy straitening a bent frame is not.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I'm suddenly reminded that these kickstands are relatively weak and can bend under load sometimes (happened to my 13DS when a car backed into it and I recall a similar story or two). So maybe it's time to shop for a third party kickstand that fits the bill - I hope this can be done, anyway.

Isn't it better for the side stand to bend rather than the frame? Replacing a side stand is easy straitening a bent frame is not.

Oh, sure. The Zero side stand has never seemed comparable to my V-Strom side stand at all, though. The bike just isn't as firmly planted as I'd like, and can't take a foot extension. The trouble with that accident was mainly the compromised front FastAce forks.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

On this morning's commute, I got too excited and demonstrated a predicted deficiency of the square-profile DBL2: reduced cornering clearance. It barely scratched the paint and the resin is fine, but I'll make sure to put something sacrificial over those edges on the next paint job, which it's due for - the current design is too plain for me.