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[remmie]

It's not clearly shown in the graph but a 230Vac B16A circuitbreaker should be able to handle 1.13 to 1.45 times the nominal current for at least 60 minutes. 
1.13*16 = 18.1 A
1.45*16 = 23.2 A

2 pcs Flatpack S at full power (slightly above 1800 Watts) with an efficiency of at least 95% and a voltage drop in the supply cable of 10 Volt (5%) racks up to :

2x1800/(0.95*220)= 17.2 amps. Be aware that this is for the flatpacks alone and absolutely nothing else on that circuit. If you connect the onboard to a different circuit you can charge at home at 3.6+1.3 = almost 5 kW.
I guess using the onboard of a (D)S(R) and the flatpacks at full power would trip the breaker but hey, why don't you just try. Keep a eye (and a feel) on the mains socket though as an improper installation or bad contact can heat up quickly and melt the socket or even catch fire.

2 flatpacks 2HE would maybe be possible if the voltage drop can be as low as possible (use thick wires from the socket to the Flatpack (2.5 mm2)
2x2000/(0.95*220) = 19 Amps which should be possible for at least 40 minutes but may also last the entire charge.

I'm fortunate to have such an unused circuit in my garage and have charged once or twice at maximum rate to get going quickly after a ride.

[hubert]

2 FP and the onboard, that's about 22A or so. It's not very safe to pull that from a 16A schuko socket. In the early recent EV times (2011-2012), the Leaf's and iMiEV's were fitted with a charging cable drawing 14 to 16A from the socket, which is mathematically within spec. However, from about 2013, those cars were fitted with cables pulling only 8 to 10A from the socket. To get the max current you need to have a regular wallbox at an insane price. This reduction of intensity was motivated by the fear of causing a house fire in case the socket and the wiring behind it was somehow old, with oxydated contacts and loose wall wire connections...

[hubert]

Hello all,

We are now a few guys messing around the flatpacks in order to build remmie's supercharger. Not sure if it was said before, nevertheless let me share my worries and findings.

If The flatpack does NOT answer CAN commands, neither seem to send anything to your Leonardo-CAN, don't worry!

First try to connect the CAN to your car's OBD2 port just to listen what happens (in 500KBPS). You will probably get a huge amount of ununderstandable data. This means your HW and SW works.

If not, check the source code for this line:

const int SPI_CS_PIN = 17;

Figure "17" is the data pin connected to the CAN IC's chip select input, in case of Leonardo-CAN. Other CAN "shields" may use another data pin for that, for example "10". Please check this pin value (on the schematic diagram of your board) and adjust the source code accordingly.

Now it really works with the car.

Still, with the FP nothing works (even with 125KBPS setting). This is probably due to the termination resistor, 120 Ohms which shall be installed "somewhere" on any CAN bus. Your car already contains one. The Flatpack, as a single component, does not. The Leonardo-CAN board offers the option to add or not the "Terminal" resistor. It is already mounted on the board, you just need to connect it (or not) to the bus using a jumper. As soon as the "terminal" holes are bridged, the FP starts talking!

[Skidz]

Just done a final test with the flatpacks in an enclosure, whilst charging in the topcase with a small venting hole created by the case not completely closing. Chargers get so hot you can barely touch, but they kept going without goint into thermal shutdown. Outside temps 18C, and sunny so a good warmer weather test. When summer really hits i'll have to put them on the passenger footpeg in the shade i guess.... Still, happily charging along at about 6kW together with the charge tank

[Neuer_User]

So, today I tested my two flatpaks. They worked nicely. 👍

Only issue I had that they continued charging with 7A even though the SOC was reported already at 100%. I guess I need to reprogram them to less than 57.6V. I will try 57V.

[hubert]

First high power charge trial today. As soon as they are connected to the bike, the fans go full speed and loud !

I was able to set the permanent max voltage. And charge without Arduino board. Next step will  be to implement the Leonardo to get something useful on the tiny oled display and maybe also reduce the charge current, depending on the power source available. Also have to do the 3-phase interconnect with a type-2 plug (as soon as it is delivered) to be used on public 22kW stations.

Really happy, so far !

[Lenny]

So, today I tested my two flatpaks. They worked nicely. 👍

Only issue I had that they continued charging with 7A even though the SOC was reported already at 100%. I guess I need to reprogram them to less than 57.6V. I will try 57V.

I noticed the same yesterday. I wouldn't worry too much about it, they start tapering down to 2-3 amps very soon. I guess it's more or less due to the fact that the SOC calculation is a little "confused" after fast charging, so it does show 100% although it's not really full yet. You won't overcharge the battery, as the flatpacks can't really push out more than 115,2V in total. The onboard is doing 116,4V if I'm informed correctly. Furthermore the BMS will shut down before you really overcharge it. I will keep mine on 57,6 V each.

[Burton]

Lenny is correct. 116 - 116.4 is what the bike thinks is 100% ...

My RSP meanwell stack is set at 114v even ... when it gets there it simply stops outputting current while the main meanwells on the bike (MY13) take over for the last 10% of the charge.

So don't look at SOC look at voltage or just listen for when your chargers are "done" as the sound changes as their input drops.

The "over voltage" protection on a zero BMS, if I recall correctly, is 118v ... if you get it this high by any means the bike will lock you out and you will have to wait for the voltage to drop to a safer number ... I have been told the wait is very long lol

[Skidz]

My Flatpacks decrease the current and that is audible by the fan noise, which stops completely when both PSU's reach max voltage and current tapers down to about 5 amps. In my case that should be around 115,4v and my display then shows 95% charge. The chargetank then finishes off at about 10A.

[Neuer_User]

So I did a first real test today at a local charging point. It worked pretty nicely. It charges at 4.9kW. Charging from 60% to 93% took about one hour, worth current reduction kicking in at about 89%.

At 93% I stopped it, because the charging power was down to 1.2kW. When I stopped charging, the SOC value jumped to 100%. Strange. Apparently, the SOC is really not very reliable when fast charging. Anyhow, it worked, so I'm rather happy.

[hubert]

Did also my first trial at home yesterday. From 20% to 99% (% shown after disconnecting and key off/on) in about 1h45min. So good!

[Skidz]

Did a small tour last weekend, to see how well the apps work for finding chargers outside of my direct environment. First charger was at a gas station and I refuse to spend time there with my motorcycle so on to the next, which turned out to be a 3,7kW unit. Too light to my taste so on to the next one which was much better...
Lessons learned: Don't go EVSE shopping with < 10% SOC since you might be driving around for a while finding the right spot

PS I already shortened the orange DC cable, this one is rediculous

[hubert]

In France there are many 22kWAC stations, perfectly tuned for the Renault Zoe, but useless for cars with DC fast charging. These AC stations will be my target as soon as I have built the 3 phase setup with the type 2 plug. Just to make thinks more complicated, a vast number of these stations have (only) a type 3c socket which used to be the special french-italian exception in the lobbying battle between the big electric apparatus companies. Now that EU has decided to make the type 2 as a standard, the 3c will (slowly of course) be replaced by type 2. In the mean time, some stations are clever enough to offer both types of socket.

Charging at a gas station is a not that bad idea. Putting apart the bad smell of these places, it is a way to show to all drivers where the future is. It shows that the gas stations can progressively move they business model from selling gas to selling electricity. And in fine, during the waiting time you can enjoy the station's shop... Of course it may be more pleasant to find a charging point in the middle of a nice city.

[Lenny]

Did a small tour last weekend, to see how well the apps work for finding chargers outside of my direct environment. First charger was at a gas station and I refuse to spend time there with my motorcycle so on to the next, which turned out to be a 3,7kW unit. Too light to my taste so on to the next one which was much better...
Lessons learned: Don't go EVSE shopping with < 10% SOC since you might be driving around for a while finding the right spot

Your right on the fact not to arrive with very little battery remaining if you don't know it's a reliable charge point with alternatives. Actually I'm always picking charge locations with some alternatives nearby in less than 5 km, so if one doesn't work, I just move to the next.

Have you tried TheNewMotion or Plugsurfing Apps? Those actually show you how much power a charging point has and whether it is occupied or not. I always pick those with 11 or 22 kW.

[Skidz]

I used thenewmotion which was wrong about the 3,7kW points, showing them as 11kW. I reported those, let's see when it's fixed