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[Neuer_User]

Printed out all DHL Stickers.
All buyers should have an email from me with the TRACKING ID for YOUR Package.

Please check immediately the Address. Tomorrow Highnoon they will be roll out around the World [emoji14]

Short question : did you program the rectifiers to 57.6V? If not, how can we do it?

[remmie]

Post on the first page of this thread on how i soldered the cables to the Flatpacks

How did i do the wiring on the back of the flatpacks? I just stripped the wires about 1 cm, stuck the wire inbetween the contact which would normally " grip"  the PCB board, and soldered them to the contacts. Be carefull that you ise a soldering iron with a high enough wattage and be carefull that the solder does not flow to the adjacent contacts, creating a short.

After soldering and testing i used hotglue to protect the contacts against accidental touching.

[remmie]

For reprogramming the flatpacks for a default voltage of 57.6 Volt (or any other voltage between 43.5 and 57.6) see the link in the first post of this thread (link to endless sphere forum)

it is basically just 2 CAN commands.

[Neuer_User]

Post on the first page of this thread on how i soldered the cables to the Flatpacks

How did i do the wiring on the back of the flatpacks? I just stripped the wires about 1 cm, stuck the wire inbetween the contact which would normally " grip"  the PCB board, and soldered them to the contacts. Be carefull that you ise a soldering iron with a high enough wattage and be carefull that the solder does not flow to the adjacent contacts, creating a short.

After soldering and testing i used hotglue to protect the contacts against accidental touching.

Ahh, thanks. Seem to have overlooked it. I was thinking a bit along the same idea.
How does it hold mechanically?

I guess I will go that way, too.

[Neuer_User]

For reprogramming the flatpacks for a default voltage of 57.6 Volt (or any other voltage between 43.5 and 57.6) see the link in the first post of this thread (link to endless sphere forum)

it is basically just 2 CAN commands.

Wijnand71 just sent me the code. I will add it to the repo I setup. 👍

[Skidz]

I can understand the confusion, the endless sphere thread contains some code snippets that need some attention to get running with your own rectifiers. This thread also contains a lot of code with the regular jitter in it that you'll have to modify to get going with your own rectifier.
Thanks @ Neuer_User for keeping the repo up!

[Neuer_User]

I can understand the confusion, the endless sphere thread contains some code snippets that need some attention to get running with your own rectifiers. This thread also contains a lot of code with the regular jitter in it that you'll have to modify to get going with your own rectifier.
Thanks @ Neuer_User for keeping the repo up!

I have added the sketch to set the voltage permanently to my repo https://gitlab.com/Neuer_User/Zero-Supercharger (thanks to wijnand71!).

Some questions popped up in my mind. Maybe the answers are buried somewhere, but it is difficult to find:

• Are the external diodes mentioned in the thread needed or not?
• In case of a two flatpack charger, only one flatpack is connected to the arduino, right? Does it make a difference which one?
• Both flatpaks first need to be set to the right final permanent voltage, right? Which one do you guys use? The sketch implies 57.5 V, leading to a final charge voltage of 115V.
• Do the flatpaks need to have set a max current? Or is this irrelevant now that the PID is driving the flatpaks?
• in order to pause or stop charging, is there a command to tell the flatpaks to stop, before you disconnect the cables?
• Is there a list of known CAN commands for the flatpaks anywhere? I would like to add it to the wiki on the repo.

[Lenny]

Some questions popped up in my mind. Maybe the answers are buried somewhere, but it is difficult to find:

• Are the external diodes mentioned in the thread needed or not?
• In case of a two flatpack charger, only one flatpack is connected to the arduino, right? Does it make a difference which one?
• Both flatpaks first need to be set to the right final permanent voltage, right? Which one do you guys use? The sketch implies 57.5 V, leading to a final charge voltage of 115V.
• Do the flatpaks need to have set a max current? Or is this irrelevant now that the PID is driving the flatpaks?
• in order to pause or stop charging, is there a command to tell the flatpaks to stop, before you disconnect the cables?
• Is there a list of known CAN commands for the flatpaks anywhere? I would like to add it to the wiki on the repo.

1. I don't use external diodes and don't really understand for what they would be needed
2. Yes, you can only connect one flatpack in a series, otherwise you will blow the arduino. However you can connect two that are in parallel, for example the two bottom ones.
3. I'm actually using max voltage on both currently, so 57,6 V each.
4. You can't set a permanent max current, you can just control the current of the one connected to the arduino. The other one is following because they are in series. The PID determines current via voltage regulation.
5. There's no such command as far as I know. Power off the flatpacks first before you disconnect them. When theres no current flowing anymore it's safe to disconnect.
6. So far there is no list I guess. You can extract the different commands out of the code and forums.

[wijnand71]

1. I don't use external diodes and don't really understand for what they would be needed
2. Yes, you can only connect one flatpack in a series, otherwise you will blow the arduino. However you can connect two that are in parallel, for example the two bottom ones.
3. I'm actually using max voltage on both currently, so 57,6 V each.
4. You can't set a permanent max current, you can just control the current of the one connected to the arduino. The other one is following because they are in series. The PID determines current via voltage regulation.
5. There's no such command as far as I know. Power off the flatpacks first before you disconnect them. When theres no current flowing anymore it's safe to disconnect.
6. So far there is no list I guess. You can extract the different commands out of the code and forums.

Some additive notes on the questions:
1. On the endless-Sphere forum there's a guy called DoctorBass and he is a kind of super specialist on builing electronics and especially chargers. He always insist on having a diode parallel on the output. (anode on minus, cathode on plus) I tried to look up the thread but there are just too many post about diodes on outputs. I discussed this also with Remmie and he remebered as it has something todo with the series connection of the FlatPacks and having just one load. In some rare cases there can be a reversed voltage on one of the rectifiers for a short period of time. With this diode you always protect the FP agains any reversed polarity for just €2,50. Use Schottky diode DSA70C150HB, middle pole is cathode and outer ones are Anode's. There are 2 diodes in one package.
http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/160616/IXYS-DSA70C150HB-Schottky-Diode
They won't get warm, as they only work in a very short period of time. Put some heatshrink over it to islolate the housing.

2. And the FP will also blow! At least the CAN interface will die!!!


Remmie and I are currently working on code and hardware to control BOTH flatpacks, for a dual FP setup or a Quad setup. The bottom one communicates via a standard Arduino and the top one communicates via an isolated Arduino. Both Arduino's are talking together via an I2C connection.
If all is going to work as the idea, current is maximum controllable. So you can charge on every power connection available.
No matter if its a single 5A camping circuit or a tripple phase 22kW station.

[Neuer_User]

Remmie and I are currently working on code and hardware to control BOTH flatpacks, for a dual FP setup or a Quad setup. The bottom one communicates via a standard Arduino and the top one communicates via an isolated Arduino. Both Arduino's are talking together via an I2C connection.
If all is going to work as the idea, current is maximum controllable. So you can charge on every power connection available.
No matter if its a single 5A camping circuit or a tripple phase 22kW station.

That really sounds great.

The solution you are looking into would then require two leonardos (the arduino with the integrated CAN-BUS transceiver), right? Wouldn't an isolated coupler on the CAN-Bus work, too? Such as ADUM5241?

[wijnand71]

Yes, two Leonardo's. And they communicate together via I2C.
Our solution is now based on a ISO1050DUB CAN isolator, wich connects to an Leonardo PCB internally. When all is finally working I will post all details and hardware needed. Remmie is working on the code side and I do the hardware and testing. Be patient, we are workingon it.
In extend on my previous post hereby an image of the added diode on the PCB of Ciscone and a pic of our Dual Arduino test setup
Still under construction though.

[wijnand71]

Oh, and a pic of our test setup so far..

[Neuer_User]

Interesting.

Why do you still need two Leonardo boards, if you have the 1050DUB? Can't it be connected to serial port of the Leonardo and transceive that to the isolated can bus?

Yes, two Leonardo's. And they communicate together via I2C.
Our solution is now based on a ISO1050DUB CAN isolator, wich connects to an Leonardo PCB internally. When all is finally working I will post all details and hardware needed. Remmie is working on the code side and I do the hardware and testing. Be patient, we are workingon it.
In extend on my previous post hereby an image of the added diode on the PCB of Ciscone and a pic of our Dual Arduino test setup
Still under construction though.

[Neuer_User]

Also of interest could be the LTM2889.

Edit: forget this. It's a nice device, but the package is a BGA.

[wijnand71]

Interesting.
Why do you still need two Leonardo boards, if you have the 1050DUB? Can't it be connected to serial port of the Leonardo and transceive that to the isolated can bus?

Don't think so. The CAN drivers accept TXD and RXD signals straigt from the CAN controller. Those signals are bi-directional. Its (at least for now) a easier step to start from. And 2 Arduino's give us much flexibility at low cost. Maybe it can be done with one, but its gonna be way more complex.
The whole thing should also be affordable. It should be build with "blocks" that already exists. I tried to develop a PCB myself, but that is way to expensive compared with our current setup. And almost everybody with two right hands should be able to build this. Also the level of nerdiness should be not be that sky-high ;-) To isolate the upper CAN signals we found a ready to go PCB wich accepts data straight from the CAN controller, wich is on the Arduino board. Only a bit of precise soldering is required here.
As said, more details are following as the proces of testing develops. We are just at the beginning of testing code with this hardware.