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[Doctorbass]

with 50kw(67hp)  and total weight of 360 pounds this will make a ratio of  5.37 pounds per hp witch is very close to the Ford Shelby GT500  at 5.8

Doc

Are you including your own weight in with that 360 pounds?  (I think I'd leave it out, if so).

Yes this include me as well!

This would seem to be a case where the weight of the jockey is even more critical than that in horse racing.  Think what the weight/power ratio would be with a well-trained teenager who might only weigh 100 pounds or so.

This setup  will be about 5.8 pounds per hp with me at 160 pounds

Doc

[Alan Stewart]

Ride safe!

[Doctorbass]

Ride safe!

Yes.. that's important!.. curiously I'm actually installing a safety switch   that require two hands on the handle bar to have the throttle to work.. if one hand is not present, then i have to recycle the RUN/OFF switch to make the throttle to operate again.

This will avoid turning accidently the throttle while the system is ready...

Doc

[Frank]

Doc, let us know how this works for you.  I've not had any issues with that but I can hear a small coolant pump running and I monitor aux. battery voltage, so have a display to look at.  Have you installed a tether kill switch?  This might be more important.  Think about the process of making a pass: you're probably not doing a burnout but I keep my visor up until after I'm pre-staged.  If you have to stop and recycle the power it may be confusing in the stress of the moment.  What you describe sounds good if it's wired as a "dead man" switch only.

Good luck!

[Doctorbass]

I have installed  a key switch that turn On the controller  that then turn on the contactor.
Also a RUN switch witch is connected to teh FORWARD action signal that is required to have any throttle  active.
Also a kill switch that is directly connected to the contactor. in case of emergency it will shut down the main contactor. that kill switch is a Normally Close type.
And finally a 5th switch that is another condition to get the throttle to be active. this is a left  handbrake thati'm using as a switch. In other words, both of my left and right hand must be on tehhandlebar to have the throttle to work. if my left hand stop pressing the handle for more than 0.5s (that i've programmed), then the throttle cut and i have to cycle the RUN switch to get the throttle back.

If the motorcycle fall to the ground while i make a run (if an accident happen) it will be impossibel for the motor to continu to operate due to the left handle that stop receiving the brake handle signal ( it is not connected to the brake.. i only use it as a switch)

Doc

[Doctorbass]

Ok last results: still  at 60% max torque.. i tried at 50 and 60%... but at 605 i had controller cut out...

I then set it to 75% but goes lower on teh throttle from the start line.

at 50% i got 0-60ft at 2.08s  and 13.9 at 85mph on the 1/4

at 60% torque setting i had controller cut out but i got 1.9s on the 0-60ft

At 75% and low throttle on teh start line, i got 0-60ft at 2.00s and 8.20 for the 1/8 and 13.2 on the 1/4 at 92mph.

I am still very satisfied with these preliminary results. First reason is that i got  8.5s (1/8mile) and 13.9s (1/4mile) at 100% throttle for 50% max torque setting. that run was 132Wh energy.  This is very promissing for when i'll be able to set  100% torque and have no cutout !
secondly, because i got 13.2s at 75% torque but reduced throttle from the start witch is my current best 1/4 time ever... with very conservative settings! so i have alot margin to improove the 1/8 and 1/4 mile times!
tomorrow i will get my lower ratio sproket kit ( 98 instead of 132T) and will test next weekend at Pont Rouge drag race.

Doc

[Doctorbass]

MY BEST RUN YET AT 75% TORQUE AND REDUCED THROTTLE FROM THE START LINE:

[protomech]

Hey Doc,

Those are really good times already

My best 1/8 mile race was the following, 2014 SR with my ~210 pounds in gear:

0.584s reaction
2.091s 60 ft
5.449s 330 ft
8.208s 1/8 et
87.73 mph trap

I'm a drag strip newbie. My first three runs were a little variable, the last five runs were all within 8.20-8.26 et and 87.0-87.7 mph. Very consistent.

[Frank]

Doc: a good start.  132 -> 98 teeth is a big jump and it will be interesting to see what happens.  Do you know why the controller is cutting out?  Did the bike want to wheelie?

[Doctorbass]

Doc: a good start.  132 -> 98 teeth is a big jump and it will be interesting to see what happens.  Do you know why the controller is cutting out?  Did the bike want to wheelie?

Ok i just received the 98 tooth rear sproket and 200 tooth belt today from Hollywood Electric.

the controller finetuning is not finished yet. i have to tune the power map ( max torque vs RPM)  and curent control gain and PI loop in the current control. these Sevcon controller are not like brushed controller and " a bit " more complicated, but once it is done it will perform without cut out.

last time i got overcurrent fault..

Here is the sumary of teh instructions i made from some discussion with Biff regarding that:

1:     Start setting the powermap to 100% to all the rpm range.
2:   Prepare the Vehicule Interface to record the run just like when commissioning the angle, 
3:   Do a power WOT pull,(it is really easy to do with a dyno or if you bring your laptop on the Zero you can run tit WOT on the road and record it.)
4:   Then graph the actual torque (by using the button called: "Graph PMAC Power - Iq act"  down to  the power map interface window, and selecting the vehicle interface trace that you saved)
5:   Then remap the power map to just a bit higher than than the one i achieved. that way it gets slightly better current control than if it is trying to see how close to the 100% one you had,
     also it makes it more stable without decreasing the power.

(you need to have the correct things mapped in TPDO's so that the utility can get the information it needs from the vehicle interface recording)
I can't remember what those are.  I think the default ones we have on the Zero work for one of the "map actual" buttons.
there are 2 "map actual" buttons, I think one uses Iq and ID, the other uses tq_actual or something like that

Doc

[Doctorbass]

Received today!

Big thanks to HOLLYWOOD ELECTRIC

These will improove performances as well !

Doc

[Doctorbass]

Here is some data i have compiled to decide witch gear ratio to choose.

Doc

[Frank]

I don't know much about the Zero motors: what speed gives best power?  The 98-tooth will hurt acceleration but if the motor "pulls" longer than overall performance may improve.  ??

[Doctorbass]

I don't know much about the Zero motors: what speed gives best power?  The 98-tooth will hurt acceleration but if the motor "pulls" longer than overall performance may improve.  ??

that is what i tought.. it to find the best trade off between powerband and torque from the start...

these motor usually get their peak power at 3500-4000rpm then torque start to decrease.

But i still have 40% torque left! so at the wheel after i replace the sproket i will still get a bit more torque... after i set it to 100% in the setings.


Doc

[protomech]

Any update with the new pulley set, Doc?