Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[quixotic]

I'll probably have more as I go along...and if others want to chime in about other fairings and other projects, that'd be great.

But initially, I'm just wondering if the 2013 S headlight wiring is fairly simple?  I'm thinking of installing the Airtech Ducati SS half fairing, along with the HL6 universal headlight.  It would be nice to just do a few simple solder connections.

http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/vintagefairingshalf.htm

[mrwilsn]

Uses a standard connector...H4 I think.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

[Erasmo]

It's pretty much a standard H4 motorcycle headlight solution with an of the shelf LSL urban headlight. Unplug from the wires, unscrew the old mounts and you are good to go. I cannot tell you 100% sure if the wires are long enough for a headlight that's farther out but even then it shouldn't be a big deal as long as you keep water proving in mind.

[quixotic]

So I ordered the CR4501 from Airtech.  Walt was really helpful.  He recommended either the 4501 or the CR93 for the Zero, and he also gave me the measurements that I requested. The 4501 and the 93 were recommended mainly for their small size, and also for the fact that the lower halves of the full fairings could be easily pulled apart or moved closer together (to help with fitment). 

There's a fairly lengthy wait of 3 to 4 weeks for the fabrication, but I'm fine with that.  In the meantime, I'll be mentally designing the attachment to the steering stem (probably the most tricky part, since it's not a conventional steel frame).

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Interesting choice/recommendation!

CR4501: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/hondaz/cr4501967teamhansen.htm

CR93: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/hondaz/CR931962-63.html

[quixotic]

It will take the CR4501 fairing a while to arrive, so I started to assemble the strut needed for the new headlight. It's just made of some aluminum channel stock and turnbuckles (I didn't want to do any welding or drill any holes in the frame).  The end of the channel has an arc cut in it which is the same radius as the steering head.  And I included a notch for that little keyway thingy.  Surprisingly, the final result is quite rigid. However, I don't trust it to take all the bumps, so I'll also have to figure out some triangulation in the vertical plane to come up underneath the bottom triple-clamp. 

[MrDude_1]

Before I had a tig, I could only weld steel.

I tried making a fairing stay with solid steel pencil rod, but it was heavy and not totally solid.

I then remade it with 1 1/4" thin wall tube from a home supply store. Easy to to bend. Solid. Still had to weld, but worth it.
I wouldn't try to build one that bolted. Just make the parts, Mark them, and have someone tack them for you. Worth the extra effort to have it welded.

[quixotic]

Before I had a tig, I could only weld steel.

I tried making a fairing stay with solid steel pencil rod, but it was heavy and not totally solid.

I then remade it with 1 1/4" thin wall tube from a home supply store. Easy to to bend. Solid. Still had to weld, but worth it.
I wouldn't try to build one that bolted. Just make the parts, Mark them, and have someone tack them for you. Worth the extra effort to have it welded.

So would that be aluminum to aluminum? (I know nothing about welding)

[togo]

So I ordered the CR4501 from Airtech.  Walt was really helpful.  He recommended either the 4501 or the CR93 for the Zero, and he also gave me the measurements that I requested. The 4501 and the 93 were recommended mainly for their small size, and also for the fact that the lower halves of the full fairings could be easily pulled apart or moved closer together (to help with fitment). 

There's a fairly lengthy wait of 3 to 4 weeks for the fabrication, but I'm fine with that.  In the meantime, I'll be mentally designing the attachment to the steering stem (probably the most tricky part, since it's not a conventional steel frame).

Interesting.  For real aero, I'd get one of these: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/vintagefairingsdustbin.htm  I've almost ordered the DBL1 myself a couple of times (my crash bars are 28" wide, and the angle looks close, so I'd expect to see if I could bend it out a bit or cut and patch.  A vertical "stall strip" down the front appears to be beneficial with regards to side winds anyway.)

[MrDude_1]

Before I had a tig, I could only weld steel.

I tried making a fairing stay with solid steel pencil rod, but it was heavy and not totally solid.

I then remade it with 1 1/4" thin wall tube from a home supply store. Easy to to bend. Solid. Still had to weld, but worth it.
I wouldn't try to build one that bolted. Just make the parts, Mark them, and have someone tack them for you. Worth the extra effort to have it welded.

So would that be aluminum to aluminum? (I know nothing about welding)

yes. Just make the pieces fit nicely together, and keep them clean.
once you have it figured out, just have someone weld them up. Most professional welders have some kind of welding gear at home, and take jobs on the side for cash. Plus they make a good friend to have around. lol.

[quixotic]

So I ordered the CR4501 from Airtech.  Walt was really helpful.  He recommended either the 4501 or the CR93 for the Zero, and he also gave me the measurements that I requested. The 4501 and the 93 were recommended mainly for their small size, and also for the fact that the lower halves of the full fairings could be easily pulled apart or moved closer together (to help with fitment). 

There's a fairly lengthy wait of 3 to 4 weeks for the fabrication, but I'm fine with that.  In the meantime, I'll be mentally designing the attachment to the steering stem (probably the most tricky part, since it's not a conventional steel frame).

Interesting.  For real aero, I'd get one of these: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/vintagefairingsdustbin.htm  I've almost ordered the DBL1 myself a couple of times (my crash bars are 28" wide, and the angle looks close, so I'd expect to see if I could bend it out a bit or cut and patch.  A vertical "stall strip" down the front appears to be beneficial with regards to side winds anyway.)

I'd be tempted, but unfortunately, the only dustbin that'll fit in my garage is the type you put dust in.   

[quixotic]

Before I had a tig, I could only weld steel.

I tried making a fairing stay with solid steel pencil rod, but it was heavy and not totally solid.

I then remade it with 1 1/4" thin wall tube from a home supply store. Easy to to bend. Solid. Still had to weld, but worth it.
I wouldn't try to build one that bolted. Just make the parts, Mark them, and have someone tack them for you. Worth the extra effort to have it welded.

So would that be aluminum to aluminum? (I know nothing about welding)

yes. Just make the pieces fit nicely together, and keep them clean.
once you have it figured out, just have someone weld them up. Most professional welders have some kind of welding gear at home, and take jobs on the side for cash. Plus they make a good friend to have around. lol.

Are there any legal stipulations about obliterating all the important writing on the steering head, though?...not to mention the stamped VIN number?

[MrDude_1]

Before I had a tig, I could only weld steel.

I tried making a fairing stay with solid steel pencil rod, but it was heavy and not totally solid.

I then remade it with 1 1/4" thin wall tube from a home supply store. Easy to to bend. Solid. Still had to weld, but worth it.
I wouldn't try to build one that bolted. Just make the parts, Mark them, and have someone tack them for you. Worth the extra effort to have it welded.

So would that be aluminum to aluminum? (I know nothing about welding)

yes. Just make the pieces fit nicely together, and keep them clean.
once you have it figured out, just have someone weld them up. Most professional welders have some kind of welding gear at home, and take jobs on the side for cash. Plus they make a good friend to have around. lol.

Are there any legal stipulations about obliterating all the important writing on the steering head, though?...not to mention the stamped VIN number?

YES.
If you're doing it correctly, you shouldn't be effecting the VIN on the steering.
The stay should still bolt on, but the stay itself should be welded into one piece.

The "usual" way is a single two hole bracket welded to the steering head, and then the stay bolts to that.

[quixotic]

So I added some more triangulation to the headlight bracket. Now it's very sturdy (I'm guessing that I could easily hang 30 pounds or more off of the front extension).  The horizontal cross-piece will also be used to attach to the side of the fairing (and, of course, some more attachment points both up top and down below).  The white thing is a chunk of teflon from Lee Valley, and the small bolts extend into it from the top at least an inch or more.

The fairing and windshield arrive tomorrow (supposedly) from fedex (anything but UPS, in my books), so I'm a bit excited. I believe it's the same as this unit:
http://petrolicious.com/honda-rc166

[Kocho]

As a lighter alternative to the two adjustable hooks I'm thinking you can use a metal band (gear clamp?), the heavy duty kind for securing plumbing? Just cut/drill a slot on the sides of the front piece of aluminum close to the end where it makes contact with the steering column, pass the metal band through there, and wrap around the steering column? Or instead of drilling, use a bolt like you have, but instead of sideways, have it vertical and use both ends of it (above and below the aluminum piece) to pull with one band each towards the steering column?

I'm thinking like these, but perhaps heavier duty, maybe a pair?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-in-Galvanized-Steel-Worm-Gear-Clamp-MC4HD/203626508?fbtLinkClicked=1465954177901|203626509

EDIT.  Now that I look at your photos, there might not be space for the bands on the rear side of the steering column...