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[LeftieBiker]

   I'm not actually worried that the dealer 120 miles away will refuse to work on the bike under warranty. I am just certain that they won't pick it up here and then then return it, or even just one of those.

[LeftieBiker]

   I'm now in contact with the service department in California. (Zero hasn't responded beyond the apparent auto-response I get immediately whenever I contact them.) Here is what the Tech is saying about the 0020 and 0028 errors:

"I’m not sure how much we can do remotely. Usually how we go about checking isolation involves connecting to the BMS, testing isolation, and then disconnecting components until you find the one that triggers the isolation issue.
We won’t be able to do this remotely.

 I recommend the customer try pressing the reset button on the front of his monolith; sometimes resetting the BMS can resolve hiccups that get encountered but not cleared.
If that doesn’t solve the problem, then he will need to bring it in for further diagnosis."

   Ok, so where is the reset button on the "monolith," which I assume is a cluster of components?

[Kocho]

They call the battery packs "monolith". I've seen some threads here with a description where the reset button is. As MostlyBonkers said though, it could also be firmware problem and updating the firmware might be an easy first step to try.

[LeftieBiker]

They call the battery packs "monolith". I've seen some threads here with a description where the reset button is. As MostlyBonkers said though, it could also be firmware problem and updating the firmware might be an easy first step to try.

   No, pushing that button would be the "easy first step" and updating the firmware the "currently impossible step" I'm afraid. Is there maybe a second rubber plug in front of the pack housing for the button, or can it be reached through the same one that shows the BMS lights? This isn't an urgent question - it's cold here right now - but I need a detailed, definitive answer.

[LeftieBiker]

   Looking at photos of the bike, I see two big rubber plugs, one right below the other, on the front of the <cue eery music> monolith. I'm hoping that one is the BMS light access port and the other is the reset button access port. Hopefully pressing that button won't cause the local skunks to start using tools...

[MostlyBonkers]

This post should help:

help with charging not functioning '15 SR
You can try the BMS reset without taking anything apart.

On the front of the battery pack there are two round rubber seals, beneath one is the LED display, the other - two small buttons. Press the two buttons simultaneously for a couple of seconds, wait for another 10 seconds or so (you should hear a click and notice the dash display reset), then try plugging in again.
http://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4804.msg32577#msg32577

[LeftieBiker]

   Thanks, MB! I've looked at the several related threads, and will try the reset on Saturday, unless plans for tomorrow evening fall through. Fingers crossed for me, please!!!

[MostlyBonkers]

No probs and good luck!

[LeftieBiker]

   One last pre-reboot question: is it done with the bike On or Off? The Tech at the dealer isn't sure.

[Electric Terry]

Bike off

The bms is always on

take out both plugs and you will see the active LED's working

When you press both buttons if I remember correctly, the lights will all flash at once and then I believe you can let go of the buttons and the BMS will reset and reboot itself.

[LeftieBiker]

   Thanks. The tech said that one button is actually for waking the bike up from "hibernation" but that I can press both, which I'll do. I figured it almost had to be "Off" just for component safety, but thought I'd check.

[LeftieBiker]

   I just got back from the garage. So much for errors that clear themselves...

   The rubber plugs were easy to remove with just my fingernails, but when I opened them I got an unpleasant surprise: the inside was just about completely filled with clear (dielectric, I hope!) grease. I had to spend 10 minutes cleaning it off the white connector, BMS lights and buttons before I could even try the reset. None of the BMS lights were lit, BTW. When I did try pushing both buttons at once - not an easy task for someone with normal-sized fingers - I first got a reset with no click. The lights all came on, including the red error light, flashing cheerfully away like a little satanic Imp in my monolith. I tried it again, doing my very best to hold both buttons all the way down, and this time I believe I did hear a faint Click. The result, though, was the same. The dash is now showing the following codes:

0020: BMS Low Isolation

0028: BMS Isolation Fault

0044: Kill Switch Disable

0045  Kickstand Switch Disable

0051: BMS Self Test Warning

   I'm hoping that the 51 code just means the buttons were pushed? In any case, the BMS Isolation codes didn't clear.

   Can I still ride this bike if I keep it above 40% charge? Or is there a danger it will die on me and strand me? I'll send the codes to the dealer's Tech and I'm sure they will tell me "You'll have to bring the bike in." They are 3000 miles away, and the nearest Zero dealer to me is 120 miles away...

[MostlyBonkers]

If I were you, I'd get it back to that dealer Leftie. Just ring them up, list the error codes, wait for them to say that the bike needs to come in and ask them when they can pick it up. If they say they can't, then tell them you know of other dealers that do and say that you'll take it up with Zero. Ring Zero and explain the story and see what happens.

In the meantime, if you have an iPhone, make sure the zero app has been updated and see if you can pull the logs from the bike. Send them to zero and post them here.

That would be my approach. I had to live without my bike for close to two weeks after only having it for eleven days. It's a pain in the neck, but I feel it's going to be the only way of sorting it. Getting early glitches ironed out seems to be part of owning a Zero for some. You're not alone.

Best of luck.

[LeftieBiker]

   It won't be easy to arrange transport 240 miles round trip. It also won't be cheap, and I'll be utterly amazed if the "local" dealer or Zero are willing to pay. If this keeps up, Zero should just come out and tell people "Don't buy a Zero if there isn't a Zero dealer nearby." To which I would add "Don't buy *any* electric motorcycle if you can't afford to write it off from the start."

[Kocho]

I forgot where you are located and if you got access to a vehicle with a hitch to tow a small motorcycle trailer. But if you are up to it, UHaul rents their smallest motorcycle trailer for something like $20 a day. Most passenger cars that are properly equipped for towing can handle it with a Zero on it. It should come to something under 1,000 lb, which is like 4 well-fed adults in some parts of the world. Just take it slow if in a small vehicle. Or rent an SUV or a truck to either tow or load it in. The trailers are very easy to load a bike on, unlike a pick-up truck or vans that are higher.

I'd be upset with the original dealer, as I'm pretty sure the error was there when they sold it to you and they just never bothered to check. It was on your first ride that the flickering light appeared, very unlikely it just happened there on a demo bike. Unless something happened to it en-route to you. The original dealer,  being so far out, I don't know what they would be able/willing to do... I feel you should work with your closest dealer - Zero should reimburse them/you for your towing or the pick-up by the dealer. That's a "new" bike that by what you say it seems was delivered to you like that or developed the issue pretty much immediately ...

Did someone already suggest to call Hollywood Electrics for a consultation? Maybe they can remotely diagnose and update your firmware as a warranty service? No travel, right?