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[Yon]

Someone should forward this to Zero.  They should be able to arrange a bike for a week or so to be delivered. You'd think.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

This weekend is terribly rainy, so I got to step 2 with the Parabellum: drill holes for MRA's longest stalk mounts at 11 inches. I'll detail the process later but am attaching some photos to illustrate how this gets the screen to clear the headlamp and is just a couple of brackets away from a stable mounting.



Acrylic drilling visuals:

[LeftieBiker]

   Whenever I drill holes in plastic like that, I use a hot punch (applied with a rotating in and out motion) the same size to melt the edges of the hole. That seems to stop cracks from forming, and it thickens the plastic around the hole slightly.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

   Whenever I drill holes in plastic like that, I use a hot punch (applied with a rotating in and out motion) the same size to melt the edges of the hole. That seems to stop cracks from forming, and it thickens the plastic around the hole slightly.

That's a good idea; I'll see about it. I have a heat gun with a very narrow nozzle but I doubt I'll get the same effect.

[LeftieBiker]

   I got the idea, back in the Seventies, from a motorcycle magazine (Dirt Bike, maybe) as a way to install the then-new plastic aftermarket rear fenders that were just then starting to replace the heavy steel monstrosities. It's always worked well for me, including on plexiglass. You can also use a heated nail. I use a propane torch to heat whatever I'm using, to near but not quite red hot - that tends to burn the plastic.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I should mention that I used plastic-specific drill bits recommended by Parabellum, and made sure to drill holes progressively from the smallest size up one size increment at a time. So, mostly, I don't expect issues, but a little heat applied would probably help.


I'll try the heat gun first since I can control its temperature and narrow the focus [and mainly because it's already ready to use].

[LeftieBiker]

"I'll try the heat gun first since I can control its temperature and narrow the focus [and mainly because it's already ready to use]."

  This is just an educated guess on my part, but I *think* the heat gun would be riskier, because you'd be heating a much larger area uniformly, instead of a thin ridge right around the hole - even with a narrow focus. I'd worry about deforming the area.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

While I may still be fiddling with the mounting of this windshield, even when it's not perfectly positioned, it makes great weather protection.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I've figured out a workable lower mount that ensures enough air flowing under the windshield to prevent vortex formation. I also transferred the MRA spoiler to make the boundary layer smoother. My test ride was an 80 mile round trip in light rain with some wind, and it performed well. I think the Eco mode 70mph efficiency figure was 125Wh/mile, mostly reading under that.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I'll describe the shopping list to reproduce this, now that I'm happy with the result. I got lucky here with Richard230's used windshield for $100. Let's call that a donation!

• Parabellum windscreen for BMW R1200R or 650 X Country: $260 new.
• Mounting Kit (Long Kit) For MRA Naked Bike Windscreens For Suzuki SV650 (Naked) via Twisted Throttle: $48.50
• Drill Bits for Plastic, recommended by Parabellum: $58.85.
• 2 Hex Thread Adapter from M6 to M8 for the lower bracket on the Zero headlamp: $12.89 x 2 = $25.78.
• M8 bolts (14mm for 2 for the adapter depth), and nuts and nylon washers: ~$10, hopefully available from a hardware store.
• 2 Brackets with M8 or 3/8" slotted holes: ~$6 from a local hardware store.
• MRA touring X-Screen windshield extension via Twisted Throttle: $132.95

So, that makes executing this plan run about $540 plus tax, and hopefully much less time than I spent now that there's a plan. I have all the measurements in a notes text file which I could repeat if there's interest. I also have a terrible drawing that started this whole effort.


Of course, many corners can be cut; a cheaper but large windscreen would work, and the spoiler is an investment I'd already made. A plastics shop may be prepared to do the drill work for you, or even shape plastics from scratch, or maybe the Parabellum mount against the handlebars is okay with you. Most of my time was spent figuring out mounting geometry, and I wasted some time and money trying different metal brackets to achieve that goal.

What matters is getting the right aerodynamic effect, which means letting enough air enter between the headlamp and windshield to prevent a turbulent vortex from drawing energy from the bike at speed. What I have right now is tunable and really quiet. I think I could ride all day behind this.

[mrwilsn]

How tall are you?? I'm 6' and looking at your pics it looks like I would be looking through that Windscreen instead of over it.

It looks nice!

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

[LeftieBiker]

   Given my current problems with my "new" SR, I think I'll opt for just a Spitfire windshield for it. I know at least one of you has one. How well does it work, and what did you do about the lack of a third mount?

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

How tall are you?? I'm 6' and looking at your pics it looks like I would be looking through that Windscreen instead of over it.

It looks nice!

Thanks! I did forget to mention and had thought to: I'm 5'9" with a 32" inseam. I can see over it mainly while seated perfectly upright, but any leaning puts me behind it. The spoiler can add another 2 or 3 inches when extended.

[protomech]

Installed the windscreen from my 2012 S on my 2014 SR. It's a little beat up, 4 years of weather has left the brackets a little rusty. But it works.

I need to do some more rigorous testing, but seeing noticeable (> 10%) improvements even in city riding (30-40 mph) efficiency (drop from mid 70s Wh/mile mile to mid 60s Wh/mile).

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Here are some profile shots in better light. I just transferred my RiderScan blind spot mirror and am pleased that it's at shoulder height for me, yielding a wide field of view.

I still need to grind the lower bracket mounts to raise the angle a bit. I hope I can eliminate the need for the spoiler once done.




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