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[2ballde]

Clay, yes a brake line like the front brake, run to the ABS unit and an extension from the rear brake sw. uses the shortest brake line path. The ABS unit is between the frame spars right behind the steering tube. Getting a wrench in there  and then retorquing the banjo bolt is a bigger pia than I wanted to undertake. So the the long brake run and short wiring mod. I'm sure bleeding the shorter line would be easier.

[clay.leihy]

I' m still thinking' a double banjo on the foot master cylinder might force fluid into the foot reservoir. eg. changing worn brake pads. When you push the piston in to accommodate the thicker new pads the fluid goes back into the reservoir. So both master cyls. would have pressed to prevent fluid returning to their reservoirs. Just thinking, haven't actually tried it. If you are eliminating the foot mc completely you could get a two way manifold like this; https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/brake-line-accessories/2-way-manifold-180-degree-1675.htm , connect the line from the hand mc directly to the foot mc hose which goes to the ABS and you dont loose ABS only the use of the foot brake( take all the foot hardware off save weight) Lastly Speigler makes custom brake lines that you can change banjo orientation after you get the hose. I can generally get a pretty good length measurement with a rope or tygon tube the same dia. as the brake line.

You're correct, it doesnt work if you just plumb a second one on the brake line. you can plumb the 2nd handlebar master into the reservoir port on the foot master, but you need to make the part.
The stunt rider guys have already been over this multiple times.

something like this?

(Not to mention one of these: http://jjuan.es/by-product-type/master-cylinders-2/?lang=en)

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

[2ballde]

My left hand rear brake install is done and working good. After the first brake light switch failed, re-bleeding  the line wasn't working. Power bleed, mighty vac, and old school hand lever press and caliper release all resulted in a mushy feel. On this page; https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/video-how-to-bleed-motorcycle-brakes  there was a method I never heard of. Basically, compress the hand lever to the bar with a zip tie or lever lock, and leave over night. This worked well for me tho' I read elsewhere that it doesn't work. If your having trouble bleeding a brake it's worth a try.

[clay.leihy]

Yes, I know it's an old thread, but ... Could you remove the brake line going to the ABS from the rear master cylinder and reroute it to a front master cylinder? Is the line long enough? Would the fittings match up? (My last bike was a 650 SilverWing, so I think I can handle not having a brake pedal.) I was looking at this one: http://r.ebay.com/hVGb6l

[Manzanita]

Yes, I know it's an old thread, but ... Could you remove the brake line going to the ABS from the rear master cylinder and reroute it to a front master cylinder? Is the line long enough? Would the fittings match up? (My last bike was a 650 SilverWing, so I think I can handle not having a brake pedal.) I was looking at this one: http://r.ebay.com/hVGb6l

Are you saying you want to have a single brake lever control both the front and the rear brakes? I have heard of linked braking but I have assumed it was more complicated than this...

[clay.leihy]

Yes, I know it's an old thread, but ... Could you remove the brake line going to the ABS from the rear master cylinder and reroute it to a front master cylinder? Is the line long enough? Would the fittings match up? (My last bike was a 650 SilverWing, so I think I can handle not having a brake pedal.) I was looking at this one: http://r.ebay.com/hVGb6l

Are you saying you want to have a single brake lever control both the front and the rear brakes? I have heard of linked braking but I have assumed it was more complicated than this...

Oh no! Rear brake controlled by left-hand lever which I would install. Front brake/right lever to remain unaltered.