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[MrDude_1]

Thanks would auto-zone or NAPA sell these?

Thanks

yes. they're very common.
http://www.autozone.com/screwdrivers/driver-bit?filterByKeyWord=tamper+proof+torx&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false

They're often called "security torx" or "tamper proof torx" bits.  The driver will be a normal torx driver with a hole in the middle.

[2ballde]

These torx screws are also called rejection torx and security torx. They are available here;  https://www.amazon.com/Torx-Driver-Security-T-10-T-40/dp/B0002SPLQ8  on amazon. There are several sizes of kits on this page and use 1/4" drive spcket or a 1/4" nut driver.

[Low On Cash]

Not real certain for moving the brake and while it might never happen to you - by putting a brake on the left side you open a Pandora's box if you let most riders on your bike because the normal reaction is to squeeze the clutch. I once owned a Aprilla and they put the front brake on the left. My buddy and his wife came to visit and as he turned right and stopped at the road he squeezed what he thought was the clutch, and the left brake it ejected both him and his wife  into the windshield and on the ground and dumped my new bike.

Regards - Mike

[2ballde]

LoC, I agree . I have a Tmax w/left hand rear brake but after a few mins. of riding I get used to it every time. In regards to bicycles I've always switched the front brake to the right side so that all my two wheelers are the same.  Had similar problems back in the day when euro bikes had right hand shifting and some were up for 1st. Plus don't trust to many folks to ride my motorcycles any way.

[tobenary]

Since custom-ordered stainless steel brake line is done by many shops, and fitting two lines into one with a double banjo bolt is not unusual ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015E82CEE ), and left-handed brake master cylinders are readily available ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/281778851797 ),

Amazon link is broken,
Can someone point me to the relevant items to be bought?

Thanks

[2ballde]

I just tried  the amazon link and it worked so go to amazon, look for; 7 Pc. Torx Driver Security Bit Set T-10 to T-40 , there are other sets on that page. These bits require a 1/4 driver like a socket or a nut driver.

[2ballde]

Sorry wrong reference, try this; https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_fb_1_11/159-1983031-4240340?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=banjo+bolts&sprefix=banjo+bolts%2Ctools%2C294&crid=JPR6I3H044RA

[tobenary]

Which double banjo did @manzanita used?

[Manzanita]

I am still very much liking the dual brake levers, but hate to admit I never have installed the rear double banjo bolt; basically the rear brake foot pedal brake line is not connected and is taped up on the piston end. But as far as connecting both master cylinders to the same line, I don't think it would be a problem. If you've rebuilt a master cylinder, you can see that the lever pushes a piston that acts as a one-way valve: the brake fluid can only be pumped out of the top reservoir into the line, but the pressure in the line normally doesn't push fluid back up into the reservoir. 

I am still using an economically-priced left master cylinder: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Left-7-8-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Hydraulic-Brake-Clutch-Lever-Master-Cylinder-New-/322084724157. This has a 14mm piston and that feels good to me as far as lever travel and feel.

I have ridden ~ 5-6k miles with this setup and still really like it. Also, I have had ICE bikes and have swapped bikes often, and I rarely get confused... although when that does happen it is when I first get on the Zero and pull the left lever (as if it were the clutch). There have been a few times when I've been on my gas bikes and pulled the clutch in thinking it was the brake... but since you are shifting with the clutch to even leave your driveway, you automatically remind your left hand to do the right thing. In emergency stops, pulling the clutch in isn't going to hurt braking and is recommended anyways to not kill the engine. And likewise, pulling the left lever in an emergency stop on the Zero ("on mistake", thinking it is the clutch lever) will just add braking power, which is what you wanted anyways... but yeah, I should have the foot pedal connected just in case of a panic situation where I get confused.

In hard braking it is of course tricky to modulate the rear brake from locking, but the feel with the hand lever is much better than with the foot lever, in my experience.

[2ballde]

I' m still thinking' a double banjo on the foot master cylinder might force fluid into the foot reservoir. eg. changing worn brake pads. When you push the piston in to accommodate the thicker new pads the fluid goes back into the reservoir. So both master cyls. would have pressed to prevent fluid returning to their reservoirs. Just thinking, haven't actually tried it. If you are eliminating the foot mc completely you could get a two way manifold like this; https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/brake-line-accessories/2-way-manifold-180-degree-1675.htm , connect the line from the hand mc directly to the foot mc hose which goes to the ABS and you dont loose ABS only the use of the foot brake( take all the foot hardware off save weight) Lastly Speigler makes custom brake lines that you can change banjo orientation after you get the hose. I can generally get a pretty good length measurement with a rope or tygon tube the same dia. as the brake line.

[2ballde]

The hose connecting method above with the manifold allows reuse of the stock rear brake light switch.

[MrDude_1]

I' m still thinking' a double banjo on the foot master cylinder might force fluid into the foot reservoir. eg. changing worn brake pads. When you push the piston in to accommodate the thicker new pads the fluid goes back into the reservoir. So both master cyls. would have pressed to prevent fluid returning to their reservoirs. Just thinking, haven't actually tried it. If you are eliminating the foot mc completely you could get a two way manifold like this; https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/brake-line-accessories/2-way-manifold-180-degree-1675.htm , connect the line from the hand mc directly to the foot mc hose which goes to the ABS and you dont loose ABS only the use of the foot brake( take all the foot hardware off save weight) Lastly Speigler makes custom brake lines that you can change banjo orientation after you get the hose. I can generally get a pretty good length measurement with a rope or tygon tube the same dia. as the brake line.

You're correct, it doesnt work if you just plumb a second one on the brake line. you can plumb the 2nd handlebar master into the reservoir port on the foot master, but you need to make the part.
The stunt rider guys have already been over this multiple times.

[2ballde]

Notes from a left hand rear brake project. Can't fabricate parts so easy since retiring, so quit the cable-to rear master cyl. method. I measured the front MC piston (13mm), rear MC (12mm) and front caliper (30 & 32mm) Rear caliper (34mm). Banjo threads on front MC 10mmx1.0, rear MC 10mmx1.25. Since I was eliminating the rear MC and had a 10mm x 1.0 180 deg. manifold had to buy a Tusk  hydraulic switch. I used a Brembo clutch MC, a custom Speigler hose (1422mm long) with a 90 deg. and a short straight on either end. Put it all together, bled the system. It felt good in the garage test mode. Unfortunately the tusk was weeping out of the wires. They are sending another no charge,no return of the faulty one. I would bypass the brake sw. but I think it may activate the ABS as well as the brake light. It's been snowing so not completely bummed at the delay. I'd love to see an electrical schematic but they seem as rare as service manuals. The drawing may or may not be a Gen9 ABS but is probably typical

[2ballde]

After further investigation the drawing above is a Bosch ABS-N unit.

[clay.leihy]

After further investigation the drawing above is a Bosch ABS-N unit.

You can buy an adapter online so that the line from the hand lever/master cylinder replaces the rear reservoir. (Though I think you already have that part figured out.) Can't you just run the wire from the switch right to the one coming from the pedal switch? However it works, please keep us up to date.

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