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[togo]

Yeah, more or less like you, I installed the line and then went through the bleeding process with fresh brake fluid.  I went slow and careful after watching some youtube videos on brake bleeding, and it went well.  I did get a one-way valve to help the process but it was defective and I returned it after doing the job the old fashioned way (loosen, squeeze, tighten, release, check level, maybe add fluid, repeat).

 

[Manzanita]

Really like the rear brake on the left lever. I feel I can brake the bike harder and faster without much thought. I think a big part of it in my mind is confidence--with the braking power spread out onto two discs, I feel confident I'm not going to overheat both on the street. Definitely a performance upgrade in my mind.

[ZEM Tahiti]

Getting more regen is definitely interesting. It would be simple  to just increase the input through the app in custom mode?
Just make a survey on the percentage applied on the regen with 100 owners. Pretty sure over 75% selected 100%.  On top of that, it is good for your brake pads!
Otherwise , I agree that left lever regen option is more for a full electric rider.

[Manzanita]

Well, the type of situations where I need more braking are beyond the capacity of motor regen, so even with motor/brake regen at 100%, riding on hilly windy roads I need to use my brakes before every corner (unless I'm going so slow I'm holding up traffic). Regen is also not going to help in emergency or close-call situations. Thinking about deer and squirrels and cars that don't see you. I actually like the feel of the bike with the regen at 30%: when you set your speed going into a corner, it rolls through smoothly and so you don't have to try to feather the throttle to maintain speed. But it does make me think, what if the left lever brake light switch was wired to generate 100% motor regen when activated? That might be cool.

[2ballde]

Manzanita, I would like to move the rear brake control to the handlebar. Have a Tmax and like the hand brake for the rear. I was wondering what left hand master cylinder you used. Curious if the set up you detailed above is still working for you. I also was thinking if the two lines to the rear brake were ganged together pressure from one master cyl. might force fluid into the other unless it was also being applied. Just thinkin'. Last I was wondering if there is a left hand brake mc already set up for ABS. available. I've been looking but not finding.

[Keith]

I also wonder whether two master cylinders can work together on the rear. I installed a mechanical left hand brake on my 2016 FX. Used a clutch lever, custom cable, and connected to the rear brake pedal behind the pivot. That works very well using lever, pedal or both, with or without ABS (I installed an ABS disable switch). Probably needs more lever effort than a hydraulic LHRB, but it combines well with the stock brake system. And with regen added the lever effort is reduced. I'll post pictures and details if others are interested.

[2ballde]

Keith, would like to see your set up with the cable. I was thinking about that too, but wondered about placement of the cable stop and the point on the foot lever that would give optimum leverage. I could buy an extra lever to play with. Hydraulically, on the Tmax the rear brake has a 14x38mm ratio mc to rear caliper ratio. To bad this kind of info isn't available for zero w/o a tear down. These ratios are critical to feel,power, and lever travel. Oh yeah, the Tmax rear brake feels stronger than the front tho' it's not.

[Keith]

OK, here is my mechanical Left Hand Rear Brake detail. I used a KTM clutch lever 54602040300 with a custom cable based on MotionPro 10-0037 '98 KTM clutch cable extended to 66" housing, 71" inner wire. A longer clevis pin, locking collar, screws, and Dorman Help cable stop were also purchased. A fabricated mounting plate of 1/8 inch aluminum holds a short 1" x 1" 1/8" steel angle piece for the cable end. Two small aluminum pieces hold the cable stop and attach to the clevis pin that goes through the brake pedal. Bronze washers allow the pivot to rotate.

The cable is longitudinal wound, I tried making my own cable from a kit but it had too much housing compression. I also started with the cable end mounted to the stock side cover plate but it flexed too much. Both of those caused a loss of braking force and let the level go to the handlebar. I tried many different leverage versus travel combinations with different attachments to the pedal, that's the reason for the extra holes in the clevis plates. The play must be carefully adjusted to get good braking (lock the rear wheel on pavement with no ABS) without any drag that will quickly wear the pads and heat up the disc. The clutch lever has a nice adjustment for that.

I am happy with the performance but it did take a few iterations to get there. It is great to be able to use both front and rear brakes with feet off the pegs on loose hills, going up or down. The extra spring on the front of the pedal was added to give a more positive return, needed because the stock return spring wasn't enough to push the cable and lever resulting in brake drag.

The advantage of the mechanical approach over hydraulic is that the stock braking components are unchanged. ABS and the pedal work just as before.

[2ballde]

Thanks for the detailed pics and description of the setup in actual use. This should make rear brake use easier, first I extended the toe piece to make it fall under the foot better but still had to lift my foot off the peg to use the rear brake. A project I look forward to finishing.

[Chief_Lee_Visceral]

Do not see these mentioned but I am sure one of the kits will fit or would be easily adapted:

https://rekluse.com/product/brake-kit-dual-actuated/

[Keith]

The Rekluse rear brake is not a good fit for the Zero FX. I ride with a friend who has a KTM500EXC and Rekluse. He has this kit and it isn't strong, won't lock the rear reliably. Also, it is made to work with a separate clutch lever and the KTM pedal is quite different. But it is the same idea as my mod. The other option out there is the Clake http://www.clake.com.au/ It is expensive and also made to work with a clutch, but Clake 2 does solve the two master cylinder problem for rear braking. http://www.clake.com.au/clake-dual-control-system/

[Low On Cash]

Hey guys I would like some help of removing the throttle unit from the handle bars.  I found a this weird hex with a post in the center (in attached image) and I'm not sure what size or in fact where to buy one.

Any help would be appreciated.

Mike

[Ndm]

Those are called "tamper proof torx "

[Low On Cash]

Thanks would auto-zone or NAPA sell these?

Thanks

[Low On Cash]

Thanks would auto-zone or NAPA sell these?

Thanks