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[Burton]

Contactor is officially welded -__-

I finally got around to testing the bike having unplugged everything and reseated the connectors.

At first the bike completely ignored all custom settings I had on the DVT / App having reverted back to MAX settings for both eco and sport but with my slightly higher setting at the DVT for torque (I think I haven't checked the DVT settings to confirm yet)

I then power cycled and the bike seemed to gain the settings I had set previously but it was completely ignoring my clutch "foot brake" so I had to use physical brakes to stop. No biggie ...

The good news is it seemed like it was working.

So about 3 miles from the house I turn around and then it happened. 2 miles from home the bike stopped responding to throttle commands blinking 4 1 (temp board sensor error). So I stopped in a semi safe spot and restarted. Kicked off and boom ... stopped again ... pulled over in a slightly safer area and noticed the 4 1 error.

Restarted the bike, throttled on and got 2 ft before I got a 3 1 error (motor temp out of range). restarted the bike and instantly got a 2 1 error.

I tried to restart the bike several times and nothing I do would move it from a 2 1 error so I unplugged everything on the side of the road that I had access to and tried reseating it twice to get it to reset the contactor. No dice.

So then I walked home 2 miles with all my gear, and a backpack, barefoot since walking in MX boots isn't exactly comfortable and likely would have got my more blisters than the 4 I got from walking barefoot.

I get home, get water and throw the ramp in the element and off I go. I get to the bike, take off the seat and remove the last two connectors I couldn't get to before in hopes of at least getting enough power to get the bike up the ramp into the element.

Started the bike up ... still a 2 1 error. I turned the bike off and tried to tap the side of the bike near the contactor and then restart it ... still no dice.

So I backed up about 20' behind the ramp and ran it toward the element. Hitting the ramp hard the bike flue into the back of the vehicle stopping briefly at the top while the handlebars cleared the top of interior ... a couple scratches but it was worth it. The road while being relatively flat slowed toward my left and I was worried the bike would fall on me so I was happy to get it in there fast.

Move the bike forward, get the front wheel into the E-Brake well and just let it lay there against the seat. Didn't even strap it down. Hitch up, hatch closed, off to home I go.

It was a rather long drawn out experience. Likely took 1 to 2 hours total after breaking down :/ But the bike is still showing a 2 1 error. I am about to go dive into the ODBII and DVT to see what I can find out but you can't easily free up a contactor IF that is the problem at all.

I say that because in my mind if a contactor welds shut then it should be showing a voltage at the +/- ends of the controller and it isn't :/ ... I am likely just mistaken.

Either way I am frustrated.

[Burton]

Harlan confirmed. Should be pack voltage at controller if the contactor is welded.

When I started the bike I was only getting 54ish volts and falling. :/

So popped open ODBII and ran some commands ... sevcon controller errors / faults abound!
Of note:
 (fault at status command)
 - ERROR   : Contactor is Open (seriously WTF)
 - ERROR   : Precharge Error
 - ERROR   : FETs are open
 - ERROR   : There is a Sevcon Fault
0x5182 Unknown

(at sevcon command)
Transmitted PDOs
  --Drive Control--
  - Max Batt Chg Current      :   -20 A (should be 40)
  - Max Batt Dishg Current    :   250 A (should be 500)
Active Sevcon Faults
  - Number of Faults          :    1
  - Fault: 0x5100 Unknown

(at eeprom)
error log area 100% full (and over writing itself)
event log area 97% full
total used 97%
Excited I then plug into DVT and open the software and I am presented with an error while opening the software :/
I have like 17v at the controller at this point and simply restart the bike.

Lo and behold the contactor closes and I have full pack voltage, 113, at the controller and all my settings are back. Seriously confused I jump back into the ODBII and none of the errors / faults show up any more ...

The only thing odd that is left under the CAN command is this:
  - Error Warning Events:                                 4


Going to have to take it to the dealer and have them upgrade the bike :/ I really hope that is all that is wrong.

[protomech]

Is that 17V at the controller reported by the bike or confirmed via a multimeter? Doesn't seem possible...

"take it to the dealer and have them upgrade the bike" upgrade the firmware?

[Burton]

Is that 17V at the controller reported by the bike or confirmed via a multimeter? Doesn't seem possible...

"take it to the dealer and have them upgrade the bike" upgrade the firmware?

Yes, it is very possible.

Do this, get your multimeter out, select DC and put the +/- on the controller. Turn the bike on and note voltage.
Now turn the bike off and note what happens to the voltage. It should slowly creep down over many minutes.

This means I was seeing voltage at the controller from when the contactor was closed last since it was open :/

The MBB / BMS version numbers are not up to date. Harlan suggested taking it into get it upgraded and said it shouldn't take more than 30 minutes but he has had trouble with some bikes in the past. I would imagine it would even take less time with my bike since It is practically naked and all the electronics are on top the battery

I sent the local dealer a service request, but given how poor their service is I doubt they will get ahold of me so I will likely have to call them or walk in to set up a time for them to upgrade the bike.

Before this happens I need to go through putty and write down any special settings I might have changed from stock ( I think there was ONE in particular I changed for the foot brake install).

[JasonS]

Is this sorted out, yet, Burton?

[Burton]

Ok update time.

So this is post firmware updates and new 2014 SR motor .

Originally it took a while since I went through and pulled and shook a lot of wires while the bike was on the stand and sure enough I got the controller to throw an error and the bike started to give a contactor error (ie it is open)

Found ONE wire used on a DC:DC step-down converter to power the 5vdc going to my "foot-brake" clutch would get a "alg-in line off" error (aka it is disconnected) when I pulled it a certain way. I am not sure if this was the "cause" of the errors I was getting before or just an extra bonus error on top of the ones caused by firmware (if any)

Before the error use to be a 4 1 which is pack temp sensor error.

Tonight I rode the bike about 20 minutes at all speeds and made sure to hit bumps hard and often ... no errors occurred. So we will see if I break down on the way to work tuesday or not lol

[JasonS]

Awesome!  I hope it continues behaving. 

Since I got the new power tank installed (about six weeks now?) mine has been rock-solid, touch wood.

It's so nice to have all the perks of an electric bike, and some reliability, too :-D

Jason