Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[mrwilsn]

That thing is a monster!

Even at your height I would experiment with the screen further down just above  the headlight and angled a little further back. It looks like that screen has a little bit of an upward curl at the top designed to throw the air over your head but it won't work as designed if the screen is mounted too vertical...maybe not...it's hard to tell from the photos.

In any case...since it's not designed for Zero it's definitely worth experimentation to see what works best.

You might also want to try to find some covers for the mounting holes you don't use.

Thanks for being the guinea pig and posting the results. I might have to give it a try if you see good highway range improvements.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Yeah, that's huge for the Zero. You'll have similar problems as my Parabellum mount. I used a bungee cord to stabilize my original commuter screen once it had an MRA spoiler but it was never enough.

Longer mounting stalks might do you some good, but for the bracing, maybe figure out a lightweight bracket you can fabricate to attach to the headlamp. I suspect the windscreen needs air to come underneath it to work well and if that's the case try to keep a 2-4" gap between the lower front edge and the headlamp.

[Kocho]

The screen does have a bit of a bulge in the upper section, which probably works better with more angle back, but it is also fairly rounded to let air go around it as well. I move it a little lower and more forward overall but with a bit less lean angle (more vertical). I'm off for a test ride/lunch to see how it works now. I also adapted the bungee cord better, so now I have a more stable (still temporary) installation. If I find a position that works, it should not be too hard to secure the bottom somewhere. And yes, I do have some air gap between the screen and the headlight. I use a piece of minicell foam to both dampen vibrations and provide another "soft" attachment point low down, as well as provide clearance b/w the screen and the headlight. Will snap a photo and upload later. I suspect I will need to angle it back towards me to avoid buffeting, but the way I have it now gives me more forward clearance, which I like to be able to duck easily behind it (without crouching painfully). 

[Kocho]

Any suggestions on where to get longer stalks for the mounts?

[Shadow]

Any suggestions on where to get longer stalks for the mounts?

Bring the ones you've got to any reputable machine shop they should be able to turn some out.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Any suggestions on where to get longer stalks for the mounts?

Bring the ones you've got to any reputable machine shop they should be able to turn some out.

You can buy the same-sized rod and rubber ball-end from McMaster-Carr to fabricate pretty quickly to match the MRA.

What I did in February(?) was order the longest stalks (~10inches) that MRA sells for naked bikes:
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/mounting-kit-long-kit-for-mra-naked-bike-windscreens-for-suzuki-sv650

[Kocho]

Thanks! I might start with some rods from McMaster - at about a dollar per foot they look like a low-risk investment

The MRA kit is probably better than mine, but I don't think it will match the holes on this particular screen and I am not yet desperate to drill more holes in it. Do you know what diameter hole the MRA requires on the windscreen?

Any suggestions on where to get longer stalks for the mounts?

Bring the ones you've got to any reputable machine shop they should be able to turn some out.

You can buy the same-sized rod and rubber ball-end from McMaster-Carr to fabricate pretty quickly to match the MRA.

What I did in February(?) was order the longest stalks (~10inches) that MRA sells for naked bikes:
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/mounting-kit-long-kit-for-mra-naked-bike-windscreens-for-suzuki-sv650

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Thanks! I might start with some rods from McMaster - at about a dollar per foot they look like a low-risk investment

The MRA kit is probably better than mine, but I don't think it will match the holes on this particular screen and I am not yet desperate to drill more holes in it. Do you know what diameter hole the MRA requires on the windscreen?

I'm disappointed that I didn't write that down. I think it was ¼" for M6 bolts, but do measure. Do look up drilling holes in acrylic - it can definitely chip or even fracture. I had a tiny mistake on mine that was thankfully consequence free.

I'm not sure how to affix the ball to the rod, exactly, other than guessing the right glue.

[Doug S]

Do look up drilling holes in acrylic - it can definitely chip or even fracture. I had a tiny mistake on mine that was thankfully consequence free.

They make drill bits specifically for drilling crack-free through plastics, and I've used them -- they work like a charm. They're just like any other twist bit except the tip is a lot steeper...they're "pointier". Any decent plastic shop has them, and they're only a couple of bucks apiece, well worth the expense.

[Kocho]

Good to know. I suppose the pointy tip is why my 90 degree tipped bit worked well for enlarging the holes. I'm wondering if a forstner type bit would work well too (they are expensive, but if one already has them, might be an alternative if they do work).

[qquote author=Doug S link=topic=4673.msg48345#msg48345 date=1475789031]

Do look up drilling holes in acrylic - it can definitely chip or even fracture. I had a tiny mistake on mine that was thankfully consequence free.

They make drill bits specifically for drilling crack-free through plastics, and I've used them -- they work like a charm. They're just like any other twist bit except the tip is a lot steeper...they're "pointier". Any decent plastic shop has them, and they're only a couple of bucks apiece, well worth the expense.
[/quote]

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Yes, I used plastic specific drill bits; I paid $50 for a set that included a lot of diameters so I could enlarge incrementally.

[DynoMutt]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Airflow-Adjustable-Clear-Windscreen-Gray-Bolt-On-Variable-Spoiler-Universal-/222228284823?hash=item33bdd68597:g:iv4AAOSwMtxXvXQh&vxp=mtr

It might be worth it for the clamp hardware alone.  I was thinking maybe I could try modifying the OEM commuter windscreen I don't use anymore to use with the clamp attached to the Chinese windscreen I have in place now.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Airflow-Adjustable-Clear-Windscreen-Gray-Bolt-On-Variable-Spoiler-Universal-/222228284823?hash=item33bdd68597:g:iv4AAOSwMtxXvXQh&vxp=mtr

It might be worth it for the clamp hardware alone.  I was thinking maybe I could try modifying the OEM commuter windscreen I don't use anymore to use with the clamp attached to the Chinese windscreen I have in place now.

MRA has separate clamps available for about that price, just in case it helps. I like the design better, seems like it'd wear less: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/x-creen-tour-bolt-on-to-clamp-mount-conversion-kit

[Kocho]

So, a few more  thoughts on the VStream. I've settled for now mounting it as much forward as possible, while leaving enough space on top for me to duck behind it without crouching. The airstream hits my helmet sides and top, creating some funny vibrations, but it is not too noisy. A little duck and I'm completely under the air, which is awesome. Almost like the way it was with my Vectrix and a winter screen, though not quite as good due to the lack of fairing and leg protection.

I think such large screen offers advantage in terms of aerodynamics without ducking much. But at high speeds above 75mph, I think a smaller screen with a deep duck behind it might be more efficient.

It does look big, but not totally ridiculous... I'm seriously thinking of adapting some sort of fairing and moving the headlight further forward so I can gain some additional space to make it more angled back, which I think will smooth-out the flow over it further. But first I'll experiment with an extension to see if it will eliminate the annoying flutter when I'm not ducking.

The top of the screen is a bigger area than the bottom, so at speed it wants to pivot, so the bottom needs to be secured to minimize this. Such a big screen will always be a little floppy on top though.

 

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

It looks like a nice position! And the lower edge surprisingly fits the contour of the headlamp; which looks tiny on the reference Concours photo: http://www.nationalcycle.com/n20102.html

I think that as long as you can secure it at the base, the double-compound curve there should keep the screen pretty stable.

How is the airflow? At highway speeds, with the windscreen doing the most work, there's often a good indicator of how it's tuned, if you feel air pressure on the back of your shoulders. This indicates that it's creating too much pressure difference and the resulting vortices are curving air back into you from behind. This is where I started figuring out how much gap to ensure under the lower edge.

The Zero does need a larger cockpit to support any number of things, like, oh, being able to see the instrument cluster while looking straight ahead... So, yes, some kind of fairing or at least a headlamp bracket that projects it forward will give it the space it deserves. Your screen is a couple of inches taller than the Parabellum I have (largest they offer for R1150R is 23" and mine is 21 or 22") so you're probably feeling the squeeze a little more than I am.