I'll jump on the bandwagon.
Broke two, high torque and the suspension travel seems to give enough flex to either the belt or the rear subframe. lengthening the effective belt path and allowing the teeth to skip/belt to break.
It's more likely it's a belt dimension issue. The design accounted for ideal conditions with a certain rider in mind. On The 2017's they increased the belt width and I don't believe people are still having this problem.
In the beginning they didn't expect those of us that ride stupid (harsh treatment of the throttle). While I don't think I'm extreme buy any means my riding style is outside their parameters. We play with the line of capable and danger. It's foolish to whack the throttle on any large displacement bike, typically you lose the rear wheel and drop the bike instantly. Watch some of the zero test ride clips and you'll see this more than once.
The zeros come close to throwing the wheel, there's a limiter that keeps it from happening at stop or very low speeds. At relatively slow speed you've got access to all the torque and if foolish enough it's easy to overwhelm the machine.
While possible to retrofit an older zero with the adapted sprockets and wider belt it moves the weak point in the system. The belt, while expensive costs way less than a new motor because of a broken keyway on the output shaft.
Basically my fix has been have extra belts nearby, and do my best to modulate the throttle when crossing debris or any roadway imperfections. Like mountain biking but I get to keep my breath and rarely risk vomiting when I push it hard.
Since your still reading, I'll mention I still love my 2016 DS. It's got enough power to make me giggle but not so much that I wrap myself around fixed roadside objects.