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Sure;
First off, you should have the bike on a stand so its really stable. I use a typical rear wheel stand and attached some thimbles to the axle bolts. Alternatively chains and blocks or straps and hang it from a roof, but it will move. In an ideal world, Id have the rear wheel secure to the ground and ropes pullies on the front end so you can lift the bike off the battery. I also remove the front mudguard so you have a bit more space, but beware the small bolts and tricky to re-align; I had to open the holes up a bit and use bigger washers.
Body work comes off pretty easily and intuitively. Only trick is there are 2 small nuts under the top (near the key) that you have to get to with an 8mm spanner. You can leave the bottom/front cowling attached to one of the sides and take it off as a combined unit for simplicity. There are some bolts under the very bottom of the bike under the motor. Don't forget to unplug the indicators.
Once the fairing is off, ISOLATE the battery using the big pull down switch on the LH side. NOTE: this is 48V DC and BIG current mate. BE VERY CAREFUL not to short cables and connections. GO SLOW>
Under the bike you will see two alloy plates. One under the controller/charger and one under the motor. Remove them both - pretty intuitive and a little fiddly first time. NB; I modified the main bash plate by re-threading the two 6mm bolt nut combinations on the side of it, to an 8mm threaded hole so its much less fiddly.
The rear plate comes off easily and provides access to motor connections and more space to move.
The bash plate (once loosened) can be gently jiggled forward with the cables still connected to improve access.
Now you can lay under the bike and see everything easily. The cables and connection points on the controller are all marked, but use a marker to ID them more easily. Carefully disconnect them all and don't short them. DONT FOREGT the motor temp sense cable which is quite small and delicate, plugs in to the top. Has release "tangs" you need to squeeze. (I broke mine last week when I tugged it!). The controller should now be free of connections. NB; I replaced all 3 controller battery bolts with stainless steel allen heads with Nyloc nuts, making access easier, corrosion gone and loosening a non issue.
Now you need to get to the positive motor terminal, easiest under neath or from rear. Pull back the red cap and carefully undo the 8 or 10mm nut and delicately remove this cable without shorting anything.
Now you need to unplug the charger, a big multi pin plug that sits behind and under the rear left of the battery. It has a white locking pin and is tight.
Unplug the battery at the rear where you'll see two big multi pin plugs. They have a locking clip pin and are very tight.
From memory, that should have the battery fully disconnected look under the rear of it to check all cables exiting are disconnected. The controller and charger can be slid out to the front now. (need to twist it to one side to allow the cables to clear the frame)
Once its unplugged, open the carton of beer that will be cold by now and drink several with your friend who is laying on your couch or laughing at your struggles, who is now required (unless you have an engine stand to take the weight of the battery - I cobbled a very dodgy and mildly effective one together using a car jack and some alloy plate and blocks of wood.)
There are 4 big allan bolts that hold the battery plate in place 2 on each side. Loosen them all off and carefully remove the nuts and washers, leaving the bolts in until you are fully committed. Now, depending on your set up you have choices. Ideally, big solid blocks under the battery and with some shoving and jiggling lift the bike up and back and it should come apart. I use a car jack, which allows me to slowly lower the battery pack, jiggle it a bit, lower it a bit and so on. If you don't have either, now is the time to put your mate to work. Get him to support the front of the battery and take the weight while you remove the front bolts (i like them under the bike in case it falls it will protect your battery). Then remove the back ones and with some jiggling it should slide forwards then hit the frame rails, then jiggle the front down and at any point it will simply drop down. Iv'e done it with help but prefer a stand for obvious reasons. If you drop it it will probably wreck it.
Once its safely out you can undo the top cover, then the back cover with all the electronics and the contactor.
Easy.
Re-installation is the reverse but getting the pack back in is a real juggle I kind of crank it up and position my self at the front and push it in using my legs. NOTE - I have found this MUCH easier one you remove the chain tensioning bolt which is very (TOO) close in my case. Once you get the rear holes close youll find you have to push past them and up a bit to get the front of the pack to clear the frame, then swing it all in.
Motor removal
As for the motor, it it easier to do with battery out obviously but possible with it in. Same deal for connections as above, but remove the negative from the motor too too. Disconnect the cooling hose.
Undo or remove the chain tensioning bolt and loosen off all 4 engine bolts. NB; I drilled a a slightly larger hole in the rear brake reservoir protecting plate to allow me to access to upper bolt easier. Remove the chain and mudguard and the shock if you prefer, but i don't recall that being essential. Its so easy its worth doing and you can lube the joints. NB I found that the spring tensioner on the shock doesn't lock well so my spring was unwinding.
Carefully remove the four engine bolts and start jiggling and twisting. Its really tight and fiddly but will drop out, be careful its heavy. Re-installation is the reverse. No major tricks except might need to rotate and jiggle and twist to get it back in.
Drink more beer.
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Topic: Glitch on the 2010 DS (Read 5896 times)