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[dkw12002]

Wow! 2004 and still worth $1400. I think the Ninja 250r had the best resale value of any motorcycle as a percentage of original cost. The new Ninja 300 has bucket and shim valves so isn't scheduled for valve adjustments so often. I would do mine at 30,000 mi. which means "never" since I will not have the bike that long. My only high-mileage bike is the Zero S with nearly 5,000 miles after 7 months of ownership. I like how you can just jump on it and go in cool weather without warming it up or riding it long enough to charge the battery, heat up the oil to get rid of moisture, or get through a tank of old gas. Range and lack of storage are really the only valid reasons I have for owning other bikes, not that having a valid reason for owning bikes ever enters into my thinking except to justify it after the fact of ownership.

Tires on the Zero are probably a weak link. They are good for rolling and increasing range, but just so-so for gripping...at any pressure. I have to be careful with all that torque that I don't spin out, and trying to ride on wet pavement is dangerous and to be avoided if possible with the stock tires.   

[Richard230]

My thoughts exactly.   

[Burton]

Speaking of older 250 Ninjas, my daughter just sold my 2004 model that I gave her some years ago last night.  It had 30K miles on the clock and she sold it for $1,400 USD.  I bought the bike new in 2004 for $2,800, so I would say that it held its value pretty well.  I performed all of the servicing on the bike and I really hated to do the valve adjustments.  It was an all day project.  Frankly, I am happy to see it go and she will be getting my 2012 S for a birthday present later this month.     No more valve adjustments!   

Takes me about 30 minutes to do the valves if they are all 'off' which I only do it when they are so I have good tutorial videos on youtube on the 'fast' way to do it hehehe

Getting back to tire pressures, I have read many times that the best way to set your tire pressure on a motorcycle is to check its pressure cold, go for a typical ride for at least ten miles and then check the tire pressure while it is warm.  The increase in pressure should be about 10%.  So if you set your pressure at 30 psi before riding off and your gauge reads 33 psi after your ride, then that would be the best pressure for your riding style and tire choice.

That would be correct. But what is interesting is if you set it to the MAX you will observe the 10% faster rear is 20% if I recall.