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[DynoMutt]

I'd love to figure out a way to store this sort of thing under the seat, provided it's possible to give sufficient ventilation.

Has anyone thought of how to gut these units and design a different chassis to hold it all within a good shape for the bike while providing sufficient airflow and environmental protection?

[Electric Terry]

Potentially interested for my 2012 as well.

Concerns:
3. Noise - could a larger, slower ducted fan still cool the power supplies effectively instead of six small high-RPM fans?

I love this idea for a 3 stack Michael!

instead of 6 smaller fans running at high rpm, build a back that mounts to the stack (perhaps it can double as the brackets that hold the 3 together) is airtight and forces air through all the chargers.  But instead of the fan diameter being limited to the small height of each separate charger, the fan diameter can now be increased to the shortest dimension of the entire charger "stack".  Perhaps one large fan right in the center of the back as a push and another in the front as a pull to achieve the same or higher CFM that the 6 individual chargers deliver.

Perhaps also, designing this "case" so to speak, weather proof doors with tight latches and gaskets can lock out moisture while riding through high humidity or rainy conditions, even if they are in also givi top case.  I do not believe the givi cases are moisture proof and I believe internal corrosion would only be a matter of time if this is not done from my experience riding in all conditions.

This is something I am interested in helping develop too.  You might say I'm a "big fan" of fast charging .  Let me know what I can do.

Terry

[Burton]

I drew something up just now on my ipad with a similar idea before you posted, I will post it later but it would be 'waterproof' at the cost of a little extra space required to store it using the 3 meanwell series of 120V @ 42A stack...

[DynoMutt]

If, somehow, it could be made to fit under the seat, and then the seat could tilt up from the back upon stopping, then the fan could go on the back of the unit facing up and out drawing air through the unit from the front bottom to the rear top, and the seat left in the up position during use.  This might attend to most possible cooling issues?  Depending on the available room under the seat, perhaps even boosting the seat up to 2 inches from its present position would be possible?  Would the three PS fit lengthwise from front to back without the present PS shell, perhaps in a stack?  It'd be really good to know what the dimensions of just the boards are without the PS shell.

[Burton]

Here is my quick idea, and I have to admit it isn't really original as I am borrowing from things I have assumed about other products.

The challenges, outside of cooling / electrical, are to find a box which will fit them and leave room enough for the interface connections.

The idea is simple though. Get a IP67 box, probably plastic but they do make aluminum ones, and cut the bottom out. Place in bottom a 'lipped' aluminum grill heat sink with RTV. Place meanwells on top of them sideways to ensure even air flow.

Add spacers as required to get desired air flow through grill. Wire up meanwells and add interface to box as required. Place meanwells and spacers back in box and put the top on.

Place another grill (unless you can track down a two sided grill to start with) on top of the bottom and attach fan (which I hope you wired a connection for before you finalized the interface connections lol)

Thoughts?

It probably would be better to do water cooled on external heat sink as air sucks at transferring heat and to have to do it twice might not be enough.

[WindRider]

The chargers create a lot of heat to run that much current.   

Once you seal them in an IP67 rated enclosure that heat will not escape and I doubt that it could be moved out of the enclosure without engineered liquid cooling.   

My 2 cents. 

[BSDThw]

I use only RSP 1000 - 24V so it will not produce as much heat!

I have disassembled one of my "Delta-q-GIVI Box" and use the now empty GIVI E21 for the Meanwell stack.
I have parted the space in two areas one where the fresh air come into the box and a "sealed" area where the heated air runs out ( I need an additional fan to suck the air out)
I used the filter for a "kitchen" exhaust hood to prevent water entering the air inlets.
unfortunately I had used the box before therefore the mechanic / holes are not as I had done with a new box!
 

[BSDThw]

It is a photo from last year at a test run (without the additional Fan I need if weather become warmer)

[oobflyer]

Since some of you now have faster chargers - anyone want to sell their old 1 kW Delta Q charger? 

[Electric Terry]

Since some of you now have faster chargers - anyone want to sell their old 1 kW Delta Q charger? 

I have my 4 original delta q's for the 2012 that I don't use much anymore.  Sometimes for long runs to add even more charging, but I'm thinking of getting 2 more elcons instead for my next adventure (I would do RSP 2500 meanwells, but for now I need 100% waterproofing certainty for my travels, and I feel even in a givi box in 3 months corrosion would destroy my chargers), but I can perhaps do without the extra delta Q's.  If you want ones that are pretty looking, you don't want mine.  They have about 45,000 miles of wear on them.   But if you just want to charge fast and don't mind if they're a little beat up, I'll let them go for a lot less than they cost me.  I got a lot of good use out of them.

[benswing]

For that price, get 2!   

[Biff]

Here is my quick idea, and I have to admit it isn't really original as I am borrowing from things I have assumed about other products.

The challenges, outside of cooling / electrical, are to find a box which will fit them and leave room enough for the interface connections.

The idea is simple though. Get a IP67 box, probably plastic but they do make aluminum ones, and cut the bottom out. Place in bottom a 'lipped' aluminum grill heat sink with RTV. Place meanwells on top of them sideways to ensure even air flow.

Add spacers as required to get desired air flow through grill. Wire up meanwells and add interface to box as required. Place meanwells and spacers back in box and put the top on.

Place another grill (unless you can track down a two sided grill to start with) on top of the bottom and attach fan (which I hope you wired a connection for before you finalized the interface connections lol)

Thoughts?

It probably would be better to do water cooled on external heat sink as air sucks at transferring heat and to have to do it twice might not be enough.

how about getting rid of the fans  and sinking the meanwells into an oil filled IP67 aluminum box?  The oil should have a lot of thermal mass, so it might not need a whole lot of cooling fins or anyting the box might just be enough surface area for the heat transfer.  Start with cold chargers (and oil), by the end of the charge (1 hour) you might have 80 or 90C oil, but that should cool off while you ride to your next charging location.  If you start off hot already, the meanwells should regulate their own current to not overheat.

-ryan

[Burton]

Do you have any examples where oil, I am assuming mineral oil, is used to cool hot components? I know the big transformers on telephone poles are submerged but I don't know how much heat is given off by them.

An Aluminum ip67 would have to be used if using oil as it would likely stand up to the heat better and they if it comes down to it you can attach a heat sync with fans or a peltier I would imagine.

I bet it would weigh quite a bit as well.

[Electric Terry]

Great idea Biff to use oil for thermal mass to cool the chargers and keep the volume and weight low! Perhaps something like ATF would work well and be easy to get at any store should you need to add more for any reason.  Sounds like a great project to start on!

[Biff]

Do you have any examples where oil, I am assuming mineral oil, is used to cool hot components? I know the big transformers on telephone poles are submerged but I don't know how much heat is given off by them.

An Aluminum ip67 would have to be used if using oil as it would likely stand up to the heat better and they if it comes down to it you can attach a heat sync with fans or a peltier I would imagine.

I bet it would weigh quite a bit as well.

http://www.electronics-cooling.com/2012/09/servers-successfully-cooled-in-mineral-oil-bath/

As Off the Grid mentioned, you might try ATF rather than mineral oil.  The computer geeks use mineral oil because it is clear and looks like water, and is less toxic (I think) than ATF.  I believe ATF (atumatic transmission fluid) has better thermal properties, I believe it transfers heat more quickly and takes more heat to warm up as well. So if you don't care what it looks like, and don't need to worry about spilling thousands of gallons of it, it is probably a better solution than mineral oil. The Chevy Volt cools its electric motor in an ATF bath, you might want to try whatever they use.