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[Zero.DS.Sweden]

Hi,

Anyone that knows if or when CHAdeMO charger is deliverable from Zero?

//HÃ¥kan

[hein]

HÃ¥kan, There is a connector, but you knew that. And not a charger.
To me that makes sense. Zero is too small for now to branch out.
They need to focus on the motorcycles proper and components immediate related to it which can not be readily obtained. As soon as they can hook up to a common spec, they should do that and be done.
For example: tires. The quickcharger is fairly specific, best I can tell.
But SAE J1772 and CHAdeMO are supposed to be standards and IMHO Zero's efforts should stop at the plug.

Now it would be nice if they could share their homework with us.
They could give us some pointers and references, that would be 'nice' and maybe even required.
Maybe some comments like: We use a brand-X and brand-Y in the lab and prefer X every time, or perhaps prefer Y under such and so circumstance. (Price, Robustness, Finish, Indicators/Functions,...)

Hein

[hein]

[perhaps not the optimal topic, but here we go...]

Last weekend I did a little project to add an H1772 inlet to my Zero 2013-S.
Charging will take just as long, but I'll have more connection options such as the 6 Ev parking places at the Cambridge, MA - Alewife parking garage.

I had ordered the raw socket for $78.50 from "electriccarpartscompany", with $4.50 slow shipping.
You have to call for that, because they assume $40 shipping from China, but managed to make mine part of a larger shipment and forwarded.

The best pictures/schematics I could find were here:
http://jackrickard.blogspot.com/2011/01/j1772-2009-charging-for-your-ev.html

I was considering dripping a hole in the plastic side panel, the left on has a pre-cut indent on the battery module behind it, but was also eyeing the tube in the rear fork. I expected to use some PVC pipe for a mount, but I happened to have a piece of aluminum that fit just right, needing just a piece of wire to make it tight. (excess roller for awning).

Found a 14/3 Nema cable to sacrifice which was thick enough for the compression fitting on the inlet to hold it tight. I fit the resistor + diode right into the inlet housing.

Works for me!  2 hours work and less than $100 for a better solution (IMH0) than the $399 adapter Zero offers. Results in attached picture.

Btw... see the rusted return spring on the rear brake after 2 months?
That should have been coated or Inox.
Did Zero try to save a quarter, or just accidentally used too cheap a part?

Hein.

http://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/Custom-Built-J1772-Socket-Inlet-br-15A-16A-30A-32A-70A-J1772-Socket-Inlet-br-120v-240v-EV-J1772-Socket-Inlet-br-Custom-Factory-Built-br-Factory-to-Door-from-China-br-0-39ft-0-12m_p_384.html

[BSDThw]

Funny we all hunt the same Daemon, I use 4 different plugs!

[DesignerDan]

Btw... see the rusted return spring on the rear brake after 2 months?
That should have been coated or Inox.
Did Zero try to save a quarter, or just accidentally used too cheap a part?

Mine looks exactly like that too. In fact, it got to that level of rust within only a few weeks of owning the bike. 0 out of 10. Not impressed.

[Richard230]

No rust on my brake pedal return spring.  It still looks like new after 18 months of riding almost every day.

[NoiseBoy]

Very neat job Hein.  The only disadvantage would be that it adds unsprung mass to the swingarm.  I guess you aren't going to be tearing it up on the Zero to the point you would notice though.

How have you dealt with the pilot signal electronics?

[hein]

Very neat job Hein.  The only disadvantage would be that it adds unsprung mass to the swingarm.

Thank you.
I was pleased to realize the assembly would fall nicely behind the brake-pedal-shield.
Yes, a little more weight in what is officially a wrong place.
The aluminum tube + inlet weigh as much/little as the 2 Ft cable. I'm not worried

How have you dealt with the pilot signal electronics?

1) I did not bother with an on-off switch
2) I soldered a short, shrink wrapped, string of 1" flex wire, 880 Ohm resistor, random diode, and an other 1" of wire directly from control to ground. All easily hidden and protected in the plastic back cover the inlet came with. Circuit as per website referenced earlier.
I actually used 910+27K in parallel, and verified it to be 880. http://www.1728.org/resistrs.htm
The PCM signal is there to tell the controller how many Amps it can take, but our 1.3KW controller can never take too much, so no need to processs that info.


Hein

[BSDThw]

We have a different plug but it seems to be a similar system behind.

If I don't use the a switch-diode-resistor combination I can't start the charging process and if I start, the plug will get locked!
without a switch I could never remove the plug.

 I heard some charging stations will deliver 16A with out activating signal, but I never had such a station since I use my Type II plug!

How is it with  J1772?

ADD: I studied the diagrams, I think the inlet can lock a plug so you have your inlet at the bike and the plug comes from the station, hear the "inlet" (socket) is at the station and the plug is mine so I have to tell the "socket" to release my plug!

[trikester]

I have three Zero motorcycles, starting with 2010 and none have rusted brake return springs. It probably depends on weather and road conditions. I don't commute, live in SoCal, store the bikes indoors, and ride mostly in good weather.

Maybe there is a stainless steel spring that could be substituted. There is a spring co in Los Angeles CA that has a catalog of over 50,000 springs. I needed six clutch springs for a rare 1936 BSA V-Twin. At first I thought no-way am I going to find the springs for this bike. In their catalog I found the exact spring. The Company is: "Century Spring".

Oh, minimum order was $35 so I have enough of those springs to start a 1936 BSA Model Y13 clutch repair shop. You could probably end up with enough stainless brake springs to resell to Zero owners. However, you might want to get legal advice about liability when someone's brake return spring breaks.

Trikester

[NoiseBoy]

We have a different plug but it seems to be a similar system behind.

If I don't use the a switch-diode-resistor combination I can't start the charging process and if I start, the plug will get locked!
without a switch I could never remove the plug.

 I heard some charging stations will deliver 16A with out activating signal, but I never had such a station since I use my Type II plug!

How is it with  J1772?

ADD: I studied the diagrams, I think the inlet can lock a plug so you have your inlet at the bike and the plug comes from the station, hear the "inlet" (socket) is at the station and the plug is mine so I have to tell the "socket" to release my plug!

Why do you need a switch?  Unplugging the cable from the bike side would have the same effect and that isnt locked. Or am i missing something?

@Hein; Im guessing your adaptor tube would fit in the main frame tube also?  I believe the frame and swingarm tubes are the same size but I haven't checked it.

[BSDThw]

Why do you need a switch?  Unplugging the cable from the bike side would have the same effect and that isnt locked. Or am i missing something?

The connector has 3 phase 1 neutral and 1 PE (earth/ground wire) + a CP and PP contact.

You have to use the CP contact to activate/deactivate the charging station. If you activate => the plug will be locked from the charging station. You have no connection of CP or PP to your bike so you can't deactivate the Station by unplugging the cable from the bike.
The cable is not at the charging station like in the US, it is mine and I will bring it home
A photo of a charging station and the wiring!

[NoiseBoy]

But J1772 is designed so that the pilot signal disconnects automatically when the plug is removed from the socket.  All the switch does is disconnect the pilot signal from the socket on the bike.  Exactly the same as pulling the plug out.

[BSDThw]

Sorry maybe I didn't make it clear I/we have the Typ II plug not the J17772.

If you look to the photo you can see one notch I have marked, the plug has three of it, and the charging station use this three notches to fix the plug. I need the switch to trigger the charging station to free my plug (and before to power ON because it will not deliver current as long as it doesn't see the resistor-diode combination). If I had a cable with more than 5 lines, I could put the resistor... "inside" the bike so it would work like you think.

[aaronzeromoto]

Zero.DS.Sweden asked me in another thread about CHAdeMO.  I'd love to hear which charging stations you all would use most often.  Nissan, Fujitsu, ABB, Ecotality/Blink, Aeroenvironment?  Pictures are even better. 

In our testing we have seen some compatibility differences that cause problems.  And we think it is a station compliance issue, but I don't like to point fingers. So we are working with some of them to confirm what's possible solve the issue.

Thanks,
aaronzeromoto