I had to look up Peukert Effect. I guess my thinking was more along the way ICE bikes work, the more powerful engine always burns more fuel no matter how easy you try to be on the throttle. I always burned less fuel on a 250 than a 400 on the same trails riding about the same. I guess with electric, things work a little differently. Being so used to ICE and not owning electric, yet, I tend to apply ICE principles to electric.
It would be nice to be able to tune the bike how I want. That is a neat feature. I was thinking about some of the 50 mile trail rides I sometimes do. If I saw my available energy falling below half before I reached 25 miles, maybe I could switch to eco mode for the rest of the ride, or maybe just for a while. I would like to be able to do something at that point, instead of just throwing up my hands and say I'm doomed. I think I would like the power that the 2013's can produce. I have been concerned reading about Zero's that below 20 mph the acceleration was weak. For offroad trails I mostly ride below 20mph, so I extremely don't like the sound of weak acceleration below 20 mph. I wonder how much ability there is with the tuning software. It still might not allow big acceleration at slow speeds. I wasn't looking to reduce power all the time, the increased power of the 2013's have peaked my interest. It was that range concern popping up in my head again. From Trikester's trail ride data, maybe 50 miles of various trails is doable while staying in sport mode the whole time anyway.
I might also use only 1 battery for weight as well. Of course the particular ride would influence that decision. That is a very significant amount of weight for offroad. I agree it's not that big of a deal for street, so I would also use 2 for street. I might just leave both in all the time due to shear lazyness of having to remove one. Or not knowing the exact trail ride, thus having a safety factor on board.