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[wapit]

I really enjoy using my 2010 S however there is just one thing that bugs me, the chain rattle noise.

I've experimented by over tightening it and this had some effect but still rattles a bit so I put it back to the correct tension. There must be some after market chain guards or extra rubber bits that I can add somewhere to reduce the noise.

So I just wondered if anyone has already had some success with a modification or two?

Also considered converting to a belt drive but Zero says there are no kits to do this?
 

[Richard230]

You might try replacing the chain with an O-ring type. Those are typically quieter than the non-O-ring "heavy duty" types.  An O-ring chain will last many times longer than an non-O-ring chain, require much less maintenance, will be more expensive, heavier and have more of a drag on power until thoroughly warmed up.  Unfortunately exposed chain drives will always make noise, especially when there is no IC exhaust to overwhelm the chain noise.  Other than installing an O-ring chain, I don't think there is anything that can be done about the nose - other than wearing earplugs.

[wapit]

Thanks for the reply I might try that out but to be honest the general noise of the chain when running on a smooth surface is fine.

The "rattle" noise I am describing is made when I go over bumps etc... the chain must be hitting the swing arm in some way, as it's hollow it makes a very noisy chinky/rattle sort of sound. Maybe I simply have not got the tension right but even when I thought I had over tightened it would make some of the rattle sound going over bumps.

The chain itself does not seem to have much space between it and the hollow swing arm.

Or maybe it's not the chain at all perhaps something is just about to fall off! 

[Richard230]

If the chain is hitting the swingarm, or something else, you should be able to see the damage.  If it is hitting the swingarm, you could probably purchase a nylon swingarm chain guide, which is use on most IC motorcycles, from a Japanese or European bike dealer. Just check out various motorcycles on the showroom floor and look for a guide that seems like it would fit your bike.  Then cut it to fit your bike and glue it on the swingarm, if that is where the chain is hitting or rubbing.

[trikester]

The chain can't hit the swingarm because ZERO already has a nylon chain guard there. The sound we hear is the chain hitting the nylon guard.

I have this annoying rattle on both my 2010 DS and my 2012 DS because I modified the 2012 DS to a chain drive for dirt riding (belt too vulnerable to damage). I haven't come up with any way to avoid it, except when right after I re-adjust the chain. It soon stretches enough to return the rattle.

One thing I might consider is a spring loaded chain idler wheel. I've done this on some custom bikes I've built but I haven't given it serious thought yet for the ZERO. I've made some quiet idlers by machining urethane skateboard / scooter wheels (have to deep freeze them with liquid propane, to machine the soft urethane). Hmmmm....................

Trikester

[Harlan]

There are no bolt on kits for belt drive but you could machine an adapter plate for the rear pulley to fit a 2011 to 2010. Not sure if you'll run into any other issues but I don't foresee any problems.

Unfortunately little clearance between the chain and swingarm will prohibit you from using o-ring chain.

[trikester]

The drag of an O-Ring chain will lower the mileage. I'm willing to put up with more noise if it will get me farther on my battery. Also if I had to push a dead bike home, I wouldn't want the extra load of an O-Ring chain. In fact, using a "regular" chain, I carry pliers to remove the quick link, just in case I have to push the bike. Without any chain, I could also coast any (even slight) downhills I might come to on the way. These bikes roll pretty easily when not turning over the motor.

Trikester

[Brammofan]

The drag of an O-Ring chain will lower the mileage.

I changed the chain on my Enertia from standard to o-ring and did not notice a change in my range.  I say that with some confidence as my commute follows the same route every day and I arrive home with a state of charge that varies from 28 - 40 percent.  That may seem like a wide margin, but it's always been that same margin.  I attribute it to wind, temperature, and riding style. 

When I changed to an o-ring chain the noise reduction was amazing.  Because of that, I was predicting that my range would actually increase, probably because I was attributing the standard chain noise to increased friction, to a resulting limitation in the range.  I was wrong, however.  The range has not varied at all.  I will say, however, that the lack of sound from the o-ring chain will probably make you FEEL like you are sailing along.

If Harlan is correct that you are not able to use an o-ring chain (and I have no reason to doubt this very knowledgeable dude) then, that is unfortunate.

[ed5000]

The drag of an O-Ring chain will lower the mileage. I'm willing to put up with more noise if it will get me farther on my battery. Also if I had to push a dead bike home, I wouldn't want the extra load of an O-Ring chain. In fact, using a "regular" chain, I carry pliers to remove the quick link, just in case I have to push the bike. Without any chain, I could also coast any (even slight) downhills I might come to on the way. These bikes roll pretty easily when not turning over the motor.

Trikester

I had to push my 2010 DS with a stock chain drive 5 city blocks and I found the bike very easy to Push.  It was somewhere between a bicycle and a heavier gas bike but closer to the bicycle.

[trikester]

I guess the definition of easy is relative. Both of my ZERO's are noticeably harder to push with the chain on, compared to with the chain off. True, I could push them a fair distance while turning over the motor, but it would definitely be more work and I couldn't coast slight downhills. With the chain off it rolls as easy as a bicycle. I could probably even kick it along. Well worth the short time to remove the chain, if you have a quick link.

[manlytom]

I guess the definition of easy is relative. Both of my ZERO's are noticeably harder to push with the chain on, compared to with the chain off. True, I could push them a fair distance while turning over the motor, but it would definitely be more work and I couldn't coast slight downhills. With the chain off it rolls as easy as a bicycle. I could probably even kick it along. Well worth the short time to remove the chain, if you have a quick link.

now, how about a regen charging while we push them ? push a mile, ride a bit

OK, guess that much energy to generate by "push" is a big ask. but push up to a hill and coast down & charge ?

[flexydude]

I had the same gripe with my 2010 ds, lots of rattle from the chain. There isn't enough clearance for an oring chain. i rigged a couple of rollers that sit on the top of the swingarm that prevent the chain from slapping the side of the swingarm and that helped a bit. I replaced the rear sprocket from stock, it's a 51 tooth I think, with a 61 tooth and got rid of the chain slap and improved the acceleration a lot, but I haven't checked the range now since I mainly ride around the neighborhood and local trails. I have a 2012 ds that I want to do the chain conversion, i have the parts.

[wapit]

Hi, thanks for getting back to the topic.

Are you able to show a picture of your rollers or let me know where you sourced the larger sprocket?

These sound like good soultions