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Author Topic: Glitch 2011  (Read 3923 times)

Harlan

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Re: Glitch 2011
« Reply #30 on: September 18, 2012, 02:13:50 AM »

Daveruns, will you be removing the motor out the bottom or out the rear?  If out the bottom, you're better off using a swingarm stand and securing the front.  If out the rear, a lift like dahlheim recommends.
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Harlan Flagg
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manlytom

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Re: Glitch 2011
« Reply #31 on: September 18, 2012, 02:16:19 AM »

Hi important you need to lift up the middle section of the bike. Then take the rear shock off and lift rear tyre as high as possible out of the way. As well to make it relatively easy the bottom plate underneath the motor. Once motor is all loose, fan tube removed, power disconnected, speed sensor and temp sensor disconnected you get it out in a rolling/turning motion.  A bit fidelly but can be done. Good luck.
PS. Used a paddock stand and as well two milk crates to lift the middle. Then secure it or someone holding it.
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Tom
bikes: Kreidler RMC, Kawasaki Z650, Honda VT600, Zero 2010S, Harley XL1200 roadster, Zero 2011S -- all of them sold, Zero 2014S -- sadly written off, HD Livewire 2020
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Daveruns

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Re: Glitch 2011
« Reply #32 on: October 04, 2012, 02:23:23 AM »

Thanks for the advice as I would have been up a creek with out it. I had to remove the motor and replace it three times due to issues with the replacement motor.  But in the end with the correct motor, all worked out well. A couple of things that I discovered that weren't obvious. You need to remove the plastic shield on the back side of the motor (power connection side) before trying to remove the motor as otherwise there is not enough space. If you are also replacing the housing that secures the motor to the frame, it can be installed in four axis, but only one works. The one that works is the one that orients the positive terminal (the one with with the red dot) directly above the negative terminal and also has the indention for speedometer housing towards the front of the bike. Zero tends to ship the motors with the housing installed, but there are at least two different housing brackets and if you don't have the right one, you can't install the speedometer housing. Check this before you install the motor as it might save you a few hours work. Also, I recommend checking the motor temperature sensor on the new motor by simply plugging the sensor wire from the bike into the connector on the new motor before you begin. If you have a bad sensor and you don't test, you probably won't find out until you are done replacing the motor and ready for a test run, then you will need to get a new motor and start all over again.

On the third try, I was able to disassemble, replace, reassemble and test drive in three hours. I'm sure that next time, I will be able to do it in two hours.
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manlytom

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Re: Glitch 2011
« Reply #33 on: October 05, 2012, 04:01:36 PM »

Thx for sharing, guess ur an expert on motor swaps now!
AbOut testing the temp sensor - unjust connect it and power up the bike ? Keeping the old motor otherwise connected?
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Tom
bikes: Kreidler RMC, Kawasaki Z650, Honda VT600, Zero 2010S, Harley XL1200 roadster, Zero 2011S -- all of them sold, Zero 2014S -- sadly written off, HD Livewire 2020
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Daveruns

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Re: Glitch 2011
« Reply #34 on: October 06, 2012, 01:27:37 AM »

Yes, I discovered this after trying a new motor with a defective sensor. First I messed with all the connections and it would not complete the start up process. You get the triangle blink-pause-blink-blink-blink message. Look that up in the trouble shooting guide in the back of the manual and it says, temperature sensor failure. SO then I just pulled the temp sensor connector and connected it to the old motor next to the bike and tried again. This time everything worked. So this a great test and it takes only a second. Zero sent me another new motor, and I tested this first before I did anything else. It worked, so I proceeded and no problems.
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