Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[rotoiti]

I rode to work today and plugged my bike in, as usual. I used 5 bars going in. When I came back to ride it back home I was surprised to see that the bike isn't fully charged (after 9+ hours of charging). It was missing the top two bars.

I initially thought someone knocked off my power cable but when I came back home, I plugged the bike in and my kill-a-watt meter is showing no current going in. I plugged in the quick charger and the bike is charging fine with that.

I checked the red fuses on the "tank" and they seem to be OK. What else could I check before calling the service?

[Electric Terry]

Check the charger again.  If it was nearing a full charge, it was also nearing the max wattage draw of the circuit.  After it has been heating up am warmed up.  Anyone else plugging anything in could have set it off.  Chances are it blew a GFI.  Plug it in when you get home and see if it clicks and the sequence of amber lights activates.  My guess is it will.  The Delta Q QuiQ chargers are almost indestructable.

But if it doesn't, see if the charger is getting power. If it isn't, check the connection real good and make sure its plugged in a working outlet. if it is, make sure the bms red and green leds are flashing through the sight glass.  if not check the large green anderson connector at the back of the battery box and also the 80V 30A fuse for that charging circuit at the back.

[rotoiti]

Thanks for the reply.

Yeah, connection is good, I am pretty sure of it. There is no relay click when I plug it in and no LEDs on the bottom of the battery pack (on the charger) illuminate at all. Power is good since I take the same cable and plug it in to my yellow QuiQ quick charger and it draws over 7A just fine and the charge on the battery goes up then.

Sounds like a fuse might be blown -- does it have a 110V fuse anywhere?

I need to figure out how to get to the back of the battery box.

[protomech]

Page 5-29 in the owner's manual lists the HV fuses. There's a 30A fuse for the charger, a 30A fuse for the quick charger, a 7.5A fuse for the DC/DC converter, and a 7.5A fuse for the MBB.

The 80 volt fuse center (A) is located on the back
upper right corner of the power pack.
To access the 80 volt fuse center:
• Remove the cover to access the fuse.
• Replace the fuse.
• Reinstall the cover.

[rotoiti]

Checked that. Unfortunately, the fuse #2 is good. I reseated it and it did not help either.

Even if the 80V 30A fuse was blown the charger would still light its LEDs at the bottom of the battery back, no?

[Lipo423]

Mmmm...this is quite strange -as offthegrid pointed out these chargers are pretty good quality-

Maybe the charger thermal sensor protection is not functioning properly?

This may sounds crazy, but have you got any way to cool it down? (freezing spray or similar) -these could be a test to discard it and eventually get it serviced...just a thought

[rotoiti]

This may sounds crazy, but have you got any way to cool it down? (freezing spray or similar) -these could be a test to discard it and eventually get it serviced...just a thought

Nope, no way to cool it down but the temp is down to 17C (63F) on the battery pack which should be cold enough. Still no power from the onboard one.

[Lipo423]

- If all fuses are Ok.
- Input power cables/connectors are being checked
- Charger DC to board cables/connectors are being checked
- Thermal sensor/termistor is OK
- If you have disconnected the cables to the batteries and wire them back

And still the problem is there...I'm afraid you will have to get it serviced...

[protomech]

Do you see any lights at all on the charger? Especially the AC power connected light?

[Electric Terry]

Exactly, the input and output cables are completely separate on the charger and the only points of entry to a somewhat bulletproof heatsink and box.   The charging anderson connector side can be disconnected or fuse blown but the charger should still light up with a flashing red and amber light signaling a problem on the charging side.   The anderson connector is the only thing that connects to the bike itself besides the mounting screws.

Again I stress to find the 3 prong power connection (the one that looks like your standard computer power supply connector) and make sure you hear a small spark when plugging it in to power as the capacitors energize.  And when you do the lights should light up on the charger itself.  Do you know where it is located on the bike?  On the 2012 S and DS it is underneath the battery pack and can be seen looking slightly down from the front wheel.

[rotoiti]

Again I stress to find the 3 prong power connection (the one that looks like your standard computer power supply connector) and make sure you hear a small spark when plugging it in to power as the capacitors energize.  And when you do the lights should light up on the charger itself.  Do you know where it is located on the bike?  On the 2012 S and DS it is underneath the battery pack and can be seen looking slightly down from the front wheel.

There is no spark sound when I plug the cable in to the internal charger, there is no relay click after a second or so and no LEDs light up on the charger. That is what I am trying to convey since post #3

If there is a 110V fuse (on the wall circuit, not on the bike circuit) it might be blown but the documentation doesn't list it (or I cannot read).

[BSDThw]

There was once a photo of an open charger from Doctorbass (48V Version) and there was a fuse inside the charger.

But 1. you have to open it and 2. if the fuse is blown it maybe have a reason and it is not the best to blow it again.

You are lucky to have a second charger.

I would go to the dealer in case of warranty.

[manlytom]

this might just a basic comment -- I noticed my primary power cable getting quite corroded as I used to plug it into the Zero while switched on/on power - and likely eventually not working well or at all. --- have you swapped them to see if it is just the cable ?

[Richard230]

After reading about this problem I sprayed the three-prong charger contacts and my power cable connection with WD-40 - just for luck.  I figure it couldn't hurt and might prevent the contacts from corroding.  Most of the electrical problems on older IC motorcycles are the result of corroded electrical connections - usually ones that are out of sight and therefore out of mind.

[rotoiti]

this might just a basic comment -- I noticed my primary power cable getting quite corroded as I used to plug it into the Zero while switched on/on power - and likely eventually not working well or at all. --- have you swapped them to see if it is just the cable ?

Yes, I have. The same cable now powers the bike through the QuiQ charger. And neither the original cable nor the cable that came with QuiQ power the bike up through the on board charger. Also, the bike hasn't yet been in the rain (it has seen a drizzle a few times but nothing more) so the connector would have to be corroded "out of the box" I think.

I have the service appointment set up for Wednesday. I'll report what's up with it.