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Author Topic: Jacking the Zero  (Read 3341 times)

craigq

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Re: Jacking the Zero
« Reply #15 on: April 11, 2012, 03:11:09 PM »

I wonder if it would be stable enough to replace the rear wheel? I mean could you crank on the axle bolt? Seems like you would need a swingarm stand to do that.

Loosen the axle nut 'n bolt with the bike still on the ground, then raise the bike off the ground with the stand and remove it  ;)
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bikeless

ohgood

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Re: Re: Jacking the Zero
« Reply #16 on: April 11, 2012, 06:50:31 PM »

A guy on advrider sells a collapsable sidestand that will elevate the fr or rr of the bike to allow changing a flat. No link sorry, I'm on the mobile.

You'll really like its compactness too.

:-)
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Richard230

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Re: Jacking the Zero
« Reply #17 on: April 11, 2012, 08:27:20 PM »

I agree with craigq, if you loosen the axle nut first, you should have no problem removing the front or rear wheel - unless removing the weight of the wheel shifts the balance of the bike.  It would be a good idea to block up the opposite wheel just in case.  Otherwise, the bike seemed pretty stable with the bike supported on its belly pan by the stand.
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Richard's motorcycle collection:  2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2020 KTM 390 Duke, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior.

dkw12002

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Re: Jacking the Zero
« Reply #18 on: May 18, 2012, 09:30:17 AM »

I don't see why you couldn't just place a round metal rod through that hole in the frame which is at about the same level as spools would be anyway, then just use a rear stand and engage the metal rod as you would spools. If you were concerned the rod might move, you could always attach a steel hose clamp on each side of the metal rod just outside the stand prongs.  Then use your front  triple tree stand for the front of the bike. There is already a hole in the bottom of the fork stem that looks to be about 20 mm for a pin. This seems like it would be much more stable that having a bike up in the air balanced in the middle.
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Richard230

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Re: Jacking the Zero
« Reply #19 on: May 18, 2012, 08:40:50 PM »

The first thing I tried was slipping a metal rod through the hole in the frame, but the rod moved around and the bike wasn't very stable. So instead of trying to figure out how to make it secure in the frame, I just gave up and bought the bike lift. It really works well and the bike is very stable when raised on the stand.  I still think this is the best solution, but of course it is not the only solution to raising the wheels off of the ground.
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Richard's motorcycle collection:  2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2020 KTM 390 Duke, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior.

dkw12002

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Re: Jacking the Zero
« Reply #20 on: May 19, 2012, 04:18:33 AM »

http://www2.snapfish.com/hpphotocenter/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=4585516020/a=4564648020_4564648020/otsc=SHR/otsi=SALBlink/COBRAND_NAME=hpphotocenter/

The rod is forward and higher than swingarm spools would be so the wheel is off the ground only about 1 inch, but that will work. The bike is not going anywhere. The 2X4 visible on the other L. side allows me to balance the bike upright on the kickstand so both sides of the swingarm engage the bar at the same time and you can keep the prongs close to the swingarm that way to, to minimize forces on the rod. 
« Last Edit: May 19, 2012, 04:49:06 AM by dkw12002 »
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dkw12002

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Re: Jacking the Zero
« Reply #21 on: May 23, 2012, 08:21:18 AM »

The front fork stem requires an 8 mm head pin for a triple tree stand. While a machine shop could easily take a 13 mm pin (which is the smallest stock pin I can find) and trim it down to fit, that would involve some money. I think there is a simple, effective, and no-cost way to raise the front wheel of the Zero if you need to replace the front tire for example. Here is how I would do that: First, I would use the rear stand to raise the rear wheel as I have shown. Next, I would place a 2 by 4 under the center frame support but more toward the front. Then I would place any floor jack...a car jack would do...in the center of the 2 by 4 and jack up the bike until the front wheel was off the ground a couple inches. Finally I would place additional pieces of wood , blocks, anything strong really on both sides of the jack out toward the sides of the bike, and lower the jack slightly so there was only passive pressure from the jack on the 2 by 4. Now you have support on each side of the bike in both the back with the rear stand and on both sides toward the front with the 2 by 4 wood plank. This should allow you to remove the front wheel. 
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