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[trikester]

I want to get a small, light, portable gas powered AC generator to use when camping with my DS to recharge the battery. Since this is a dedicated use I don't want to have the generator any bigger than absolutely necessary to handle the power required during initial charge of the DS power pack. There are some nice 4stroke true sine wave generators available in the 850 to 1000 watt range and larger.

My question is; has anybody measured (with a watt meter) the actual AC power required when starting the charge on the S or DS power pack? The factory recommendation of using a 15 amp circuit doesn't cut it. I need to know the actual power required so I can select the minimum generator size.

Trikester

[picasso]

It's about 1200watts. A Honda eu2000 will cover you fine, just turn off eco throttle.

I should add I just have a Zero X but its the same charger, I've also used the same brand/version charger on other products at different voltages. The specs list max draw at 12amps and it holds at 10amps @ 120v

[trikester]

Thanks.

I ordered a digital watt meter/amp meter from Northern Tool. It was only 25 bucks and had good customer reviews about accuracy. It reads to 1875 watts and 15 amps so it should cover the ZERO. Your information will help me along until it gets here.

[picasso]

For the Zero 24 hour race I used a eu3000 with two of the chargers because of power problems on site.

[trikester]

You will probably think I'm nuts now but, I plan to build a rack for the back of the DS for many reasons. One of them is to hopefully carry the generator sometimes  to extend a trip. For that reason size and weight are very important. To that goal, I will strip everything off the generator that is not essential. However, I may decide that this is just not practical.

If there was a way to reduce the initial charging current to the power pack, from the factory set level, then I could opt for a smaller generator and just take longer to charge. It's easier to carry more gas than a bulky, heavy, piece of equipment.

[Harlan]

If you're looking for a rack, let me know.  I've been making these custom racks for our Zero customers.

[trikester]

The rack looks good Harlan. I'm on the Orange County (CA) coast so I'm not far from your shop, which would make it convenient to see one. However, looking at the photos, I think it would interfere with the tool box I have mounted under my Corbin seat. I also have changed the two side bolts that mount the seat, to tool-less change, so I can get the seat off easily and get to the tool box. I see these bolts are used as main attachments for the rack.

[picasso]

You can go with a smaller charger thus getting away with a smaller gennie

[Harlan]

Trikester,

I'd like to see how you modified the seat for toolless removal.  Sounds like a great mod!

The rack uses existing bolt holes so that no drilling or modification of the frame is required.  It literally takes 30 seconds to install and I'm happy to include all the necessary tools, hardware and loctite to make sure it stays put.  See the attached photo for a better view of the rack sans motorcycle.

I've also attached a photo of the rack on one of our customer's bikes.  Osteria La Buca, the best Italian Restaurant in town (and I'm not just saying that because they're our customer) uses it as a delivery vehicle and load it up with food everyday.  And need I say that the box is not the lightest box even when empty!

[trikester]

I changed the two seat mount bolts to hex flange bolts. I can unscrew them with my fingers if I don't tighten them more than finger tight. I didn't want to use thumb screws because it would show observers that the Corbin seat was easy to remove. By using the flange bolts it gives the appearance that it would require a wrench.

Unfortunately, these are the same bolts your rack mounts on, so that would interfere with my getting to my tool box  Since the under seat is the best place for a tool box that I can find on the bike I'm stuck with that. I would think that many owners will mount a tool box there because it's so easy and it keeps it out of sight.

The other major mod I've made is the conversion to a xenon headlamp bulb. I get 350% more light along with a reduction of 20% in current drain. The xenon conversion kit was "plug & play", I didn't have to cut any wires. There wasn't room for the high/low bulb so I purchased the low beam only bulb figuring that with the extra bright light I wouldn't need high beam (I was right). Then I connected it to the high beam side of the lamp connector so that when the switch is in the high beam position the light is on and when in the low beam position the headlight is off. This saves power when I'm riding off road and don't have to have a headlight showing.