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[2020_SRS_Commuter]

2020 SRS, currently a bit short of 58k miles.
Im on the 2nd replacement belt. Changed first at 26k, the next at I think around 46k. Never broke a belt.
The belt looks normal, the bike works normal, all is well.
How long can the front sprocket go before replacement?
Looking at it, I can see asymetry. The edges of each tooth on the pushing side sort of slope up a little, becoming a bit thicker at the flanges. No tooth stands out as different from the rest. Is there a spec? Tried looking it up and recieved jumbled AI nonsense with info about chains mixed in. Im well aware of chains and sprockets and have changed many of each. This is my my first bike with a belt.

[Specter]

I would say if it is showing signs of wear, and you do have that many miles on it, Id go ahead and change it.
Granted belts are going to take a lot less toll on a sprocket than a metal chain will but it IS apparantly, so as long as you are not looking at a major repair, I don't see what it could hurt.

It's kind of like timing belts,  well they are good for 100k, you are only at 80k you got 20 left.  Ok, do you really want to go that far and have the thing let loose on you and then your interference engine is now garbage?  No this wont be a catastrophic fail but will probably wear belts faster.

Aaron

[TheRan]

I would say that if it's not too much hassle (it's not as quick and easy to swap as a chain sprocket) just get the sprocket changed. I'm not going to say it's definitely an issue, I don't have the experience to say that, but with the wear pattern you describe that means the belt is going to be constantly deformed at the edges of the teeth. Deformation means wasted energy and potentially accelerated wear. Not only that there's probably enough wear for the belt to move forwards and backwards between the teeth as it transitions between forwards drive and regen and that slip is another source of wear.

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

Well I would change it myself rather than take it to a shop unless some weird and expensive special tool is needed. No doubt that bolt needs to be removed, and  (probably) its not reverse threaded based on the rotation, and the sprocket would either come right off after that or might need some mild heating or a puller.

Ordering a new one would give a better idea of how it goes on, and also provide a visual reference for how worn the old one is. I could get micrometers out and take some close pictures.

[T.S. Zarathustra]

Apparently it's easy to replace. From the Zero manual. https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Gen2/Motor_Bearing_Replacement
"Removed the belt pulley:
Remove the M10 countersunk bolt.
Put two thin pieces of metal under the pulley, and drive two M6x1? bolts into the two threaded holes of the pulley to lift the pulley off."

There are few YouTube videos where the two threaded holes seem to be missing. And the screw is saturated with red Loctite.

[TheRan]

That's for the gen 2 bikes, and requires removing the motor so not an easy thing at all. Even to swap a belt you're best off removing the swingarm. For the gen 3 bikes I believe you can remove the gold cover plate with the Zero logo on to access the pulley but don't quote me on that.

[Zelidar]

A year ago, I went through the same situation. Here is the link to the related thread in case you haven't seen it yet.

https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=12783.msg122794#msg122794

Now with 82'000 km, nothing to mention, aside from a worn out rear tire that I need to change (again).

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

Thanks! Looking at the print the sprocket has splines to fit over the motor shaft, not just a key type arrangement so that gives me hope it wont be too hard to remove.
It sounded to me like you had someone else swap it but do you know the torque rating if any for that bolt, and is it reverse threaded?
I'll order one from the dealer and see what the difference is. If its enough, I'll swap it. If not, I'll keep it and use it as a visual reference for when it does need to be changed. ( I intend to keep this bike and rack up miles as long as I can )

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

Well I ordered it but might have screwed up. The part number is 30-08210. But the listing says order the new part number instead 30-08403.
I thought that's what I was doing but the order gives the old part number. Is this the same part with a new number or an upgraded part, I wonder.

Ordered from Koup's Cycle Shop in Harrisburg PA.

I wrote to them asking for clarification, and also to add another bolt and washer in case they get damaged or are worn. If they reply I'll let you know what they said.

BTW the torque for that bolt that holds the sprocket captive is given in the parts listing in Zero's pdf.
52 ft/lbs

[TheRan]

I looked through the parts catalogue on AF1Racing (unfortunately they don't actually have any of the parts anymore) and up until 2022 the SR-SR/F-SR/S all used the 8210, they don't have catalogues for model years after that but one listing I've seen for the 8403 said 2024+. There have been a couple posts on here about people getting the new part number and it looks identical to the old one except maybe the numbers are engraved or etched in instead of stamped and the bolts holes look to have some chamfering where as they didn't before.

https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=13158.0

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

Koups seems tip top. They answered a few back and forths and got everything ordered.
OTW is the bolt, washer, and sprocket with new part number.
Could take a while, will post back when these things arrive.

[Skloep]

Just replaced mine, SR-ZF 2017 front-, back-sprocket and belt.
Ordered online from https://shop.koups.com/
They had all the right parts, fitted it last week. Bike is now much more quiet.
Biggest problem was getting all bolts out that keep the engine tot the frame. They should be mounted with 19NM but I broke two torx bits trying to get it out. See the picture. I finally managed to drill the broken part out and then I drilled the head from the bolt.
After that the engine came out pretty well.
The bolt keeping the sprocket in was also not easy, it needed an a lot of heat, far more than I felt comfortable with.
Old sprockets had 67000Km on them, the belt was 27000Km old. Just drove the bike until the belt broke.
This wear occurred because the dealer didn't align the sprockets and belt properly and as a new Zero owner I didn't know better, but I do now.

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

Parts arrived from Koups. After looking at the original sprocket vs the new one, I judged it was insufficient wear to change it yet so put the parts in a box for later.
Its hard to be precise but on average trying to mic the edge of each tooth for thickness, generally in the middle on my old sprocket each tooth was about .2mm less than the new one.
The bolt that holds the sprocket captive is the normal thread.... "lefty loosey" as the saying goes. Also the new sprocket has two threaded holes you might use to put bolts through to help extract it. The sprocket looks like its CNCed out of one piece of metal, including the flange farthest from the motor, and the closer one is welded on after.  Picture parts follow. In the pictures my original sprocket has about 58k miles, and Im on the 2md replacement belt. Never broke one.

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

New sprocket 1

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

New 2