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[Pard]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091PDQVK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Tool required to remove front sprocket nut

Everything else:

[Specter]

sometimes there is a bit of a wait to get the tool, its backordered.
With that.
Energica of New England has a program where he can lend you his / rent it or whatever you want to call it to get your bike work done.

This sure beats waiting 8 weeks for backordered shipping to catch up to you or putting new parts on a worn out sprocket.

If you live fairly close to me,  we could meet up one day and I could let you use mine as well.

Stop by, lets get your bike changed, have a few bev's and good eats and go for a ride maybe?
Just thinking out loud.

Aaron

[Pard]

sometimes there is a bit of a wait to get the tool, its backordered.
With that.
Energica of New England has a program where he can lend you his / rent it or whatever you want to call it to get your bike work done.

This sure beats waiting 8 weeks for backordered shipping to catch up to you or putting new parts on a worn out sprocket.

If you live fairly close to me,  we could meet up one day and I could let you use mine as well.

Stop by, lets get your bike changed, have a few bev's and good eats and go for a ride maybe?
Just thinking out loud.

Aaron

Super nice offer Aaron!

I am in the Northeast, so a meetup is not likely, but really do appreciate it.

The tool is actually already in hand, so I am good to go on that.  $30 plus $12 shipping on Amazon fron the UK.

Will report back if it works, but it seems to be a genuine KS tool KM5 unit with internal teeth. 

[Specter]

I think mine had 4 tits on it,  I can't remember what it looked like. kind of like a cylindrical spanner wrench    For the front  sprocket.

One with access to a machine shop could make one pretty easy, but if you are not that person, then shopping is the way to go!

Wonder why they did that and not just a normal nut.  I mean if loosening is an issue then just use a fkn castle nut yanno?

Aaron

[Pard]

This is the tool I use for the chain:

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0470

[PWM]

Good info! 

Mine is 16-tooth non-RS sprocket...replaced rear tire today spun her up on the paddoc stand and driveline sounded noiser than expected.

What is the typical bike mileage (service interval) for these components?

[Demoni]

The nuts are made by SKF and can be purchased from a variety of retailers.
Search for "SKF TMFS5 Lock Nut Socket"

Mine is 16-tooth non-RS sprocket...replaced rear tire today spun her up on the paddoc stand and driveline sounded noiser than expected.

What is the typical bike mileage (service interval) for these components?

Proper maintenance (adjustment and lubrication) will drastically extend the service life of a chain. 15k miles is what I would expect as the normal life of a quality 525 size chain.

[Specter]

PWM I have found that when doing tire / chain stuff and it sounds a bit on the noisy side, that means I may have set the chain tension a bit on the tight side.  Try taking a flat or so off the tensioning bolts and see what that does for you.   If it's way way loose then you get the chain rattling like sound but tight, more of a mechanical sound.   Also, giving it oh a mile or so of actual riding for everything to get settled back in where it wants to be, and lubes spread evenly can help too.

Aaron

[PWM]

In terms of chain tension, it gets set not to exceed 30mm, it's been stable at 30mm -1mm for the last several chain lubes which is typically 500mile intervals.

Am I setting the chain too tight?

Using wax lube from 1gal bulk supply unit...

Saturate shop towel (heavy-duty paper type, one can hardly rip) and use it to clean chain, saturate a second towel to lube chain.

Wondering if some of the noise was coming from motor's coolant / oil pump after bike has been sitting...non-EMC variant, obviously.

[Specter]

No, thats what the chain is supposed to be set at.

What I have noticed though is that sometimes,   you are supposed to go around a few times checking your chain for the loosest area, and tightest area, and adjusting that 30mm from the tightest spot.  sometimes, by the time you get done doing this entire thing, the chain ends up a bit on the tight side anyways, (you maybe thought a spot was the tightest and it wasnt) or the tire slid slightly when you were tightening the nut, etc etc, and you end up with say 26 mm slack.  Being that it is a little tighter, it can make a bit more noise than you are used to.  It's better to have it a little on the looser side, rather than on the tighter side, as overly tight can wear things out faster, cause more stress.

Other times I have found that after giving the chain a REALLY good cleaning, like you should be doing,  I mean getting deep down with the scrub brush, hitting each link, spraying them down till it drips clean, etc etc, then re lubing, sometimes it takes a little bit for the new lubrication to make it's way back down into everything.  The chain has to flex a few times to get it to actually squeeze /squish down into the nether regions, especially if you are using one of those wax type of lubes and not a spray fluid.

Yet other times I have found that, you just done your maintenance, and now are looking for problems,  (oh man I hope I did this right) and since you ARE looking for problems, you'll fine one !!   Hmm??  what's that SOUND???   is it louder than before?  is something different???  is my chain wore out   and you talk yourself into something not being right.

As a chain ages, the differences from the tightest to loosest spot on it can get  fairly large, making it even more of an issue getting it 'perfect'.

If your chain was  way too tight, you'd notice that fairly quick.   Id not worry too much about it, just keep an eye on it and every time you park for the next few days, give it quick finger flex, get a ballpark of where it is at now.  Again, if opening it up a little bit, quiets things down a lot, it won't hurt doing so.

Aaron

[PWM]

Good to sanity check...my bike rides smooth w/ gear-whine but nothing noticeable from chain while riding.

[Pard]

The nuts are made by SKF and can be purchased from a variety of retailers.
Search for "SKF TMFS5 Lock Nut Socket"

Mine is 16-tooth non-RS sprocket...replaced rear tire today spun her up on the paddoc stand and driveline sounded noiser than expected.

What is the typical bike mileage (service interval) for these components?

Proper maintenance (adjustment and lubrication) will drastically extend the service life of a chain. 15k miles is what I would expect as the normal life of a quality 525 size chain.

I am meticulous about chain maintenance, but this OEM chain has to go at 6500 miles.  Once the outside of the links start to show corrosion, it is safe to assume the inner pins are getting bad as well.  Higher quality aftermarket chains will withstand the elements better.

Energica, like all manufacturers tries to keep the costs down as much as possible without sacrificing too much in the way of quality, so the OEM chain is simply not a premium chain. 

[Pard]

If you chain looks like this, change it.

[SilentPea]

Of course the KSTool socket is available again.
Just got the other brand a week or two ago... https://www.ebay.com/itm/155273043925
at least it isn't $200!

[jotjotde]

Here we are again, discussing chains again 

The OEM chain comes from Regina, an Italian supplier. I can't say that the quality was inferior, I had it changed at 17,500 km (was still good) and mounted an allegedly superior Regina HPE which came with the marketing 'low maintenance'.
As already written elsewhere in this forum, this nearly triple-priced chain disintegrated at 14,000 km already with x-rings coming off and incredible lenghtening. This chain saw no rain and my riding style then was less progressive than it is now. So, no recommendation from my side.
Outside corrosion must not necessarily mean that the lube inside the chain (protected by the x-rings) is impaired. But I agree, why loose sleep over a wear part which is not that expensive. If you have no trust in that chain anymore, go ahead an change it.


Regarding noise:
Don't fret too much over chain noise if it is not uneven (indicating a loose spot) or really loud already at low speeds (< 30 km/h). It is a mechanical drive with interaction of metallic surfaces, so it MUST make noise, right?
@Aaron: You are totally rightly saying, if you listen too closely you may hear problems which aren't really there.
Chain noise might differ from time to time due to different chain lubes, lube thickness, dust sticking to the lube/chain, ambient moisture and different wear of the components (front sprocket, rear chainwheel and chain). And at some speeds the drive might hit a resonance frequency leading to a higher pitch of noise.
From my experience, it makes no difference if you mount a 'silent' type of front sproket (these come with heavy rubber rings on both sides) that will not subdue the chain noise.

I use a dry lube on PTFE basis attracting nearly no dust and the chain rollers always are blinking clean, so of course my chain sounds louder as one with caked lube.
If you don't trust yourself judging the state your chain is in, get a chain gauge. Cost about 20 bucks. You can check the chain over the whole length in a minute and can sleep well at night.