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[HoodRichOG]

Cannot find anything online about how to remove the rear wheel. Need to take it off to get a tire replaced. Does anyone have some pointers?

[Pard]

1.  Put the bike up on a rear stand (assuming you have spools on the swingarm)

2.  Loosen the axle nut

3.  Loosen the chain adjustment nuts.

4.  Support wheel and remove the rear axle

Pretty standard procedure.

[Pard]

If you are in the market to purchase a tire changing machine, I have this one and it is amazing.

Much easier to use than a no-mar.

[MVetter]

Also remove the speed sensor so you don't damage it with the brake rotor.

[jotjotde]

At my preferred workshop the mechanic dismounts the brake saddle.
I think he does that to avoid fiddling with the chain adjustment - by that way he can angle the wheel out of the chain after having removed the axle.

[Pard]

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0048

https://www.pit-bull.com/pit-crew-tire-wedge-f0102-000

Tips for reinstall:

Get a tire wedge (above) to eliminate the need to hold the tire in place by hand as you thread the axle through the hub.

Zip tie the brake caliper to the swingarm so it does not fall out of place

Get and use a chain alignment tool to make sure the chain is aligned.  Do not rely on swingarm markings.

Watch a bunch of videos on how to set chain tension correctly. 

[smithy]

Cannot find anything online about how to remove the rear wheel. Need to take it off to get a tire replaced. Does anyone have some pointers?

All this info should be in the owners manual..??

Smithy.

[Specter]

Owners manual is a 'basic bike use for dummies' essentially.  Normally they won't put something like change tires or change brakes in the manual, or anything that may require some sort of adjustment or alignment, or special tools.  They want you to take it to the dealer so they know, or at least hope, it's done right, not to mention the money flow for servicing their product line.  Yes they may tell you torque values and stuff, for those who DO know how to change brakes, or chains, etc but not much else.  This is also for legal purposes in the litigious environment the USA tends to be now.  Sure they will show you how to check for wear (so you can take it in) or top off the water in your reservoir no brainer stuff.

If anywhere, that kind of stuff would be in a maintenance manual, or repair manual.

I remember back in the days, the Chiltons manuals, that would essentially tell you how to build a new car if you had the parts.

Aaron

[smithy]

Owners manual is a 'basic bike use for dummies' essentially.  Normally they won't put something like change tires or change brakes in the manual, or anything that may require some sort of adjustment or alignment, or special tools.  They want you to take it to the dealer so they know, or at least hope, it's done right, not to mention the money flow for servicing their product line.
Aaron

This is fine is you live anywhere near your dealer, some of us are 1000's of km away from our dealer.

Smithy.

[Specter]

Then you probably will need to get some sort of repair manual, or more thorough how to manual.  Youtube is generally full of videos on this very such task.

With that being said, rear wheel removal / installation is a simple job, ANY dealership will be able to do this.  I had a dirt bike shop swap out my rear tire when it blew out on my Ribelle.  You do not have to take it to an Energica dealer.  They (regular bike shops) can do suspension, brakes, and other general bike stuff as well with no problems.  Many things are not just Energica dealer specific.

Go find a biker bar, or any American Legion, VFW, or other similar type hang out places where bikers like to congregate.  Walk in, be friendly, have a few drinks and ask someone sitting there, "Hey man, how would you change out a rear tire". 99 percent of the time someone is more than willing to tell you / show you, and possibly even help you, although it may cost you a beer or two



Aaron

[smithy]

Then you probably will need to get some sort of repair manual, or more thorough how to manual.  Youtube is generally full of videos on this very such task.

With that being said, rear wheel removal / installation is a simple job, ANY dealership will be able to do this.  I had a dirt bike shop swap out my rear tire when it blew out on my Ribelle.  You do not have to take it to an Energica dealer.  They (regular bike shops) can do suspension, brakes, and other general bike stuff as well with no problems.  Many things are not just Energica dealer specific.

Go find a biker bar, or any American Legion, VFW, or other similar type hang out places where bikers like to congregate.  Walk in, be friendly, have a few drinks and ask someone sitting there, "Hey man, how would you change out a rear tire". 99 percent of the time someone is more than willing to tell you / show you, and possibly even help you, although it may cost you a beer or two :DAaron

I do "all" my own mechanical work, I don't trust anybody I don't know well. I have the space, all the tools and a proper tyre machine to do tyre changes. The amount of times my rims have been damaged or tyres put on backwards, bolts left loose etc...the mind boggles....and we pay for this to be done.

Smithy.

[BorS]

Cannot find anything online about how to remove the rear wheel. Need to take it off to get a tire replaced. Does anyone have some pointers?

Sorry to say, but if you need an manual to do such a simple job, you should yourself if you could not better leave it so someone else, who knows what to do.

[Demoni]

Sorry to say, but if you need an manual to do such a simple job, you should yourself if you could not better leave it so someone else, who knows what to do.

Although the process of rear wheel removal on Energica bikes is the same as most every other motorcycle with a 2 sided swingarm there are things that will make the process easier.

If you have a Pitbull rear stand I can not recommend their tire wedge accessory enough.
https://www.pit-bull.com/pit-crew-tire-wedge-f0102-000
It makes reinstallation of the rear wheel so much easier. Alternatively a 10" piece or 2x4 cut at a 20-30* angle will provide a similar benefit.

I always remove the rear caliper and speed sensor first, this reduces the chance the wheel will get bound up.
After you remove the axle nut and washer the right side adjuster should be loose enough to pull off by hand. If it is not use a 13mm wrench to back the chain tension adjusters off a few turns.
Tap the axle with a soft mallet, then use the handle side to push the axle the rest of the way through the swingarm slot.
Adjust the Pitbull wedge, block of wood or use your foot to support the wheel.
Pull the axle out of the left side of the swingarm and remove the chain adjuster block.
Roll the wheel forward 1-2" allowing enough chain slack to disengage the chain from the rear sprocket. Lift the chain off the sprocket and rest it on the end of the swingarm (use a rag to protect the finish).
Roll the wheel backwards enough to clear the caliper support bracket. Remove the bracket, this provides enough clearance to slightly pivot the wheel towards the right side of the bike.
Remove the rear wheel. If you try to remove the wheel without doing this the license plate bracket will cause interference.

When it comes to installation use the same pivot procedure by in reverse. Do make sure the sprocket carrier and the wheel spacer on the right side are fully seated, if they are not the wheel will not go back in.
Once the wheel is clear of the license plate bracket reinstall the caliper bracket.
From this point on it is important to keep the wheel perpendicular to the swingarm. There are spacers on the wheel that fit perfectly into the swingarm opening, if the wheel is twisted it will bind up.
Pay special attention to the bolt heads of the rear rotor, if they are in the wrong position or if the wheel is too high or too low they will interfere with the caliper bracket.
You may need to turn the wheel slightly to allow the rotor bolts to clear the caliper bracket. This is where having something to support the wheel in position is important. Trying to support the wheel off the ground by hand and make fine adjustments can quickly lead to frustration.
Roll the wheel forward enough to allow you to reinstall the chain on the rear sprocket. Lift the chain up when you are doing this as it can get pinched between the wheel and chain guard.
Once the chain is back on the sprocket pull the wheel back slightly, reinstall the left side adjuster and verify the wheel is positioned so you can install the axle through the adjuster, swingarm and sprocket carrier.
*If your axle shaft is dry make sure to apply a thin coating of waterproof grease
Gently tap the axle into place. I normally use the palm of my hand for this, a mallet will also work. This should not require much force. If the axle is not sliding freely loosen the left chain adjuster a few turns as it may be binding.
You will need to position the caliper bracket so that it is in line with the wheel and the opening on the right side of the swingarm to allow the axle to pass through.
The tail end of the axle has 2 flats, one of these needs to index with the left chain adjuster before the axle will fully slide through.
Reinstall the right side chain adjuster washer and nut. *If the threads are dry apply some anti seize.
Adjust the chain, torque the axle nut to 70Nm, caliper bolts 25Nm, ABS sensor 8Nm

With a bit of practice you can do a rear wheel swap in ~10 minutes.
 

[Pard]

^^^  Awesome!

[HoodRichOG]

Sorry to say, but if you need an manual to do such a simple job, you should yourself if you could not better leave it so someone else, who knows what to do.

Although the process of rear wheel removal on Energica bikes is the same as most every other motorcycle with a 2 sided swingarm there are things that will make the process easier.

If you have a Pitbull rear stand I can not recommend their tire wedge accessory enough.
https://www.pit-bull.com/pit-crew-tire-wedge-f0102-000
It makes reinstallation of the rear wheel so much easier. Alternatively a 10" piece or 2x4 cut at a 20-30* angle will provide a similar benefit.

I always remove the rear caliper and speed sensor first, this reduces the chance the wheel will get bound up.
After you remove the axle nut and washer the right side adjuster should be loose enough to pull off by hand. If it is not use a 13mm wrench to back the chain tension adjusters off a few turns.
Tap the axle with a soft mallet, then use the handle side to push the axle the rest of the way through the swingarm slot.
Adjust the Pitbull wedge, block of wood or use your foot to support the wheel.
Pull the axle out of the left side of the swingarm and remove the chain adjuster block.
Roll the wheel forward 1-2" allowing enough chain slack to disengage the chain from the rear sprocket. Lift the chain off the sprocket and rest it on the end of the swingarm (use a rag to protect the finish).
Roll the wheel backwards enough to clear the caliper support bracket. Remove the bracket, this provides enough clearance to slightly pivot the wheel towards the right side of the bike.
Remove the rear wheel. If you try to remove the wheel without doing this the license plate bracket will cause interference.

When it comes to installation use the same pivot procedure by in reverse. Do make sure the sprocket carrier and the wheel spacer on the right side are fully seated, if they are not the wheel will not go back in.
Once the wheel is clear of the license plate bracket reinstall the caliper bracket.
From this point on it is important to keep the wheel perpendicular to the swingarm. There are spacers on the wheel that fit perfectly into the swingarm opening, if the wheel is twisted it will bind up.
Pay special attention to the bolt heads of the rear rotor, if they are in the wrong position or if the wheel is too high or too low they will interfere with the caliper bracket.
You may need to turn the wheel slightly to allow the rotor bolts to clear the caliper bracket. This is where having something to support the wheel in position is important. Trying to support the wheel off the ground by hand and make fine adjustments can quickly lead to frustration.
Roll the wheel forward enough to allow you to reinstall the chain on the rear sprocket. Lift the chain up when you are doing this as it can get pinched between the wheel and chain guard.
Once the chain is back on the sprocket pull the wheel back slightly, reinstall the left side adjuster and verify the wheel is positioned so you can install the axle through the adjuster, swingarm and sprocket carrier.
*If your axle shaft is dry make sure to apply a thin coating of waterproof grease
Gently tap the axle into place. I normally use the palm of my hand for this, a mallet will also work. This should not require much force. If the axle is not sliding freely loosen the left chain adjuster a few turns as it may be binding.
You will need to position the caliper bracket so that it is in line with the wheel and the opening on the right side of the swingarm to allow the axle to pass through.
The tail end of the axle has 2 flats, one of these needs to index with the left chain adjuster before the axle will fully slide through.
Reinstall the right side chain adjuster washer and nut. *If the threads are dry apply some anti seize.
Adjust the chain, torque the axle nut to 70Nm, caliper bolts 25Nm, ABS sensor 8Nm

With a bit of practice you can do a rear wheel swap in ~10 minutes.
 

Awesome, thank you. Exactly the tips that I need. Knowing the little things ahead of time always helps.

Sorry to say, but if you need an manual to do such a simple job, you should yourself if you could not better leave it so someone else, who knows what to do.

Maybe you should ask yourself if it's worth posting something that has no value to yourself and others before hitting that "Post" button.