Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[DonTom]

My 2020 Esse Esse 9- was just sitting in the garage here for the last two weeks. Two weeks ago, all was fine. Bike then ran fine.


I just turned the bike on to move it, and when I hit the activate motor button, it says "Kill switch pressed" but only the motor activate side of switch is being touched. First time I ever even saw such a message.


This means my bike will not move at all on its own power, as it thinks the kill switch is on when it is not.


I did the obvious stuff, even took the switch out from its place to test. I can only get high resistance readings between all positions on any of the contacts. I assume this is not just a "normal" switch with normal low resistance between the contacts. Or else the switch went 100% bad just from sitting there, which I doubt. LED or some type of active switch maybe? Still could be a bad switch, but I hate to just take a WAG and replace it. Is there a way to bypass it for a test?


So for now, I have 2020 SS9- that will not run at all.


I hear a click when I try to activate the motor by putting on the front brake and activate side of the switch, coming from down low on the bike. No "go" but it says "Status Okay".  I did a VCM reboot to no avail.


Any ideas? 


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[Demoni]

Pin 4 on the 8 pin connector between the switch and the bikes harness carries the signal for the "kill" function. It references ground to determine if the switch is in the on or off state. When the switch is in the on position pin 4 should have continuity with ground.
Pins 2 and 8 go to ground. Can you check continuity between these pins for each switch position?

The seat switch is part of the kill switch circuit. On most US bikes this circuit has been bypassed but it is possible your seat switch is still active. If this is the case a failure of the seat switch will also cause the "kill switch pressed" message to be displayed.

If you remove the right tank cover and the right under seat fairing you can confirm if the seat switch has been bypassed. With the fairings removed trace the wires coming off the rear brake switch up to where it connects to the bikes harness. If there is an additional 2 pin JST (solid white) connector in the same area this goes to the seat switch. If you do not see that connection that would indicate that the circuit has been bypassed. I can provide some photos tomorrow when I am in the shop that should help.


Chris

[DonTom]

Pin 4 on the 8 pin connector between the switch and the bikes harness carries the signal for the "kill" function. It references ground to determine if the switch is in the on or off state. When the switch is in the on position pin 4 should have continuity with ground.
Pins 2 and 8 go to ground. Can you check continuity between these pins for each switch position?

The seat switch is part of the kill switch circuit. On most US bikes this circuit has been bypassed but it is possible your seat switch is still active. If this is the case a failure of the seat switch will also cause the "kill switch pressed" message to be displayed.

If you remove the right tank cover and the right under seat fairing you can confirm if the seat switch has been bypassed. With the fairings removed trace the wires coming off the rear brake switch up to where it connects to the bikes harness. If there is an additional 2 pin JST (solid white) connector in the same area this goes to the seat switch. If you do not see that connection that would indicate that the circuit has been bypassed. I can provide some photos tomorrow when I am in the shop that should help.
Chris

I sure am glad you replied! I bet the seat switch is the issue. A couple of weeks ago, I had the seat off working on the bike for something unrelated. I did notice the switch under the seat, I had no idea what it was for, but perhaps it is no longer aligned up correctly with the seat or something like that. And perhaps I never did check the bike after, I now cannot remember. I didn't even think about it until you mentioned the seat switch. It sure now sounds like I caused the problem myself! I hope so, in this case!


BTW, can this seat switch be bypassed at the seat switch by shorting it out?  I will soon be checking that out and I will post here what I find.


Thanks! I would have never guessed the seat switch could be part of the kill switch circuit (unless already bypassed). What was the purpose of that seat switch, to disable the bike while charging or something like that? Why only bypassed (at least sometimes) in USA models?


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[DonTom]

The seat switch is part of the kill switch circuit. On most US bikes this circuit has been bypassed but it is possible your seat switch is still active.

All fixed thanks to you! The seat switch was NOT bypassed in my bike. It is now. I just removed it and soldered the black wire to the blue wire and used heat shrink tuning over that. All fixed!!!


 I am glad to know it was from something I did myself and had nothing to do with the bike's reliably. My own screwup. The real issue was the metal thingy above the switch was not aligned to activate the switch. Is it the bar of the seat that is supposed to push it down? Hard to tell what is supposed to happen when the seat is up.


Anyway, mine is now bypassed right at the switch and all is back to normal. Thanks again!!!


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[DonTom]

Should I assume the red wire on the normally open side of the switch is for an error message of some type? Anyway, I now have the bike all back together and all is fine.


I doubled up on the red heat shrink tubing. Another layer on top of the first as I don't know what happens if it shorts to the frame.


Here is what it now looks like under my seat. Ended up being a simple fix. The red is the heat shink tubing.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[SBK74]

With a bypassed  seat switch, can you activate the bike while charging? Just a question. I am interested in bypassing on my Ribelle, as the switch causes trouble riding over speed bumps with a passenger.

[Demoni]

Should I assume the red wire on the normally open side of the switch is for an error message of some type? Anyway, I now have the bike all back together and all is fine.
I doubled up on the red heat shrink tubing. Another layer on top of the first as I don't know what happens if it shorts to the frame.
Here is what it now looks like under my seat. Ended up being a simple fix. The red is the heat shink tubing.

Glad to hear that fixed the issue. Only the blue and black wires going into the seat switch are used for the circuit the red wire does not connect to anything.

With a bypassed  seat switch, can you activate the bike while charging? Just a question. I am interested in bypassing on my Ribelle, as the switch causes trouble riding over speed bumps with a passenger.

The seat switch has no effect on this. You can not enable the throttle when the bike is charging.

[DonTom]

With a bypassed  seat switch, can you activate the bike while charging? Just a question. I am interested in bypassing on my Ribelle, as the switch causes trouble riding over speed bumps with a passenger.

The bike will NOT activate motor while the charge cable is connected. It also will not activate with the sidestand down or with the key out. So I don't understand how any of that can be an issue.


I just checked mine to be sure. Charges normally, key on or off. All is as normal in every way. But perhaps I can no longer get the "kill switch pressed" message if that is the function of the red wire. That, I do not care about.


There are three wires to the seat switch, black to blue will bypass the seat kill switch. I assume the red is for the "kill switch pressed" message which I did not connect to anything. I assume this because the red wire goes to the opposite side normally open switch contact. This part of the switch will normally only close when the seat is lifted. Obviously, mine was stuck there when I had this problem.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[DonTom]

Glad to hear that fixed the issue. Only the blue and black wires going into the seat switch are used for the circuit the red wire does not connect to anything.

Somehow I missed this message! So the red goes nowhere, so the bike is normal in every way with the switch bypassed and it should have been bypassed anyway. So what does the seat switch do for those in other countries?  I just don't understand how it can be useful for anything.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Specter]

A GP switch usually comes with 3 wires.
1 Pole
2 Throws.

A wire does not HAVE to have a use in an application, it just comes with the switch. if you need it, use it, if not, tuck it or snip it.

Aaron

[Demoni]

So the red goes nowhere, so the bike is normal in every way with the switch bypassed and it should have been bypassed anyway. So what does the seat switch do for those in other countries?  I just don't understand how it can be useful for anything.

Confirm the red wire terminates about 6" inside the black wire sleeve. With the blue and black wires connected the "seat" is permanently closed.
I am not fully versed in EU homologation but as I understand one of the requirements is a ignition interrupt to prevent a bike from being started with the seat up.

We started bypassing the switch as it is not required in the US for the exact reason you encountered.

[DonTom]

Confirm the red wire terminates about 6" inside the black wire sleeve. With the blue and black wires connected the "seat" is permanently closed.
I am not fully versed in EU homologation but as I understand one of the requirements is a ignition interrupt to prevent a bike from being started with the seat up.

We started bypassing the switch as it is not required in the US for the exact reason you encountered.

OIC. IOW, if somebody has the seat up but not charging and has the centerstand up, the bike will still run.  I cannot see how that can be a much of an issue, so it must be to satisfy some silly law.


I wonder how my 2020 SS9- got missed for the bypass. Not that it makes any difference at this point.


-Don-  Reno, NV