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[Demoni]

If the disc would be warped or not being true as indicated by @most I think I would feel the brake lever pulsating - wouldn't I?

Possibly, a warped rotor would cause the brake pad to be pushed away from the disc surface. This would apply force to the pistons in the caliper, resulting in feedback at the brake lever. However the feedback at the lever might be so minimal that you would not feel it, also the ABS system might dampen this feedback.

You might want to try a alternate approach to freeing up the rotor buttons


Removing your calipers (one at a time) and giving them a good cleaning would be my next suggestion. Buildup of brake dust can prevent the pistons from moving freely. Remove the pads (taking note so you can put them back in the same position). Use the brake lever to extend the pistons (only 1mm or so) and clean their surface with a tooth brush. If one of the pistons is not extending you can use blocks of wood to prevent the other pistons from moving. Be careful, it is possible to push the pistons too far. Once clean push each piston back into the caliper and reinstall the pads. Take note of the fluid level in the reservoir as it will fill as the pistons move into the caliper.

When you reinstall the calipers make sure you "set" their position. Torque to 40Nm

[EvaMuc]

Hi,

i had the same issue with significant brake judder. It was only when braking rather light, e.g. when stopping at a traffic light, no issues when braking hard.
Cleaning the rivets (with the method from the video linked by Demoni), cleaning the pistons, aligning the fork legs, and setting the caliper positions (linked video) solved the problem for me.

Best, Jens

[Twinman]

Hello, I'm from Switzerland and switching to electric bikes to replace my gas ones (Surron Lightbee for the small off-road tracks, DSR/X for the trail, and now an Eva Ribelle to have fun and go on the race track.

I got the infamous pulsating braking. Check rotor warp, less than 1/10 mm which I guess is ok. Rotating each of the rotor buttons as suggested in this post, did not help.
According to the Energica dealer, this can be some of the brake pad material that has migrated into the disc, and suggest replacing the discs.

I can, of course, clean the piston's brakes and re-align the calliper as suggested (thanks for the video), but I doubt this will solve the problem.

So I guess I will likely have to replace the rotors and think of putting the 78B408B2 Oro models (Seems I can get them here in Europe for about 200 € to 250 € each).
Any suggestion besides the Oro discs and also for the brake pads?

Thanks for your advice :-)

[Richard230]

I had a similar problem with the front brake of my 2018 Zero S. After cleaning the disc surface there still wasn't much improvement. However, I replaced the original J.J. Juan brake pads with EBC H-H pads and that solved my pulsing issue - and it never returned.   

[SBK74]

Hello, I'm from Switzerland and switching to electric bikes to replace my gas ones (Surron Lightbee for the small off-road tracks, DSR/X for the trail, and now an Eva Ribelle to have fun and go on the race track.

I got the infamous pulsating braking. Check rotor warp, less than 1/10 mm which I guess is ok. Rotating each of the rotor buttons as suggested in this post, did not help.
According to the Energica dealer, this can be some of the brake pad material that has migrated into the disc, and suggest replacing the discs.

I can, of course, clean the piston's brakes and re-align the calliper as suggested (thanks for the video), but I doubt this will solve the problem.

So I guess I will likely have to replace the rotors and think of putting the 78B408B2 Oro models (Seems I can get them here in Europe for about 200 € to 250 € each).
Any suggestion besides the Oro discs and also for the brake pads?

Thanks for your advice :-)

Other suggestion is maybe measure thickness. Doesn’t solve the issue, but we learn. Looking closely at the OEM discs, they look like poorly manufactured and aligned. My first set was out of true like 5mm, strange sight. I would go for the Oro Brembos indeed.

[jotjotde]

I got the infamous pulsating braking. Check rotor warp, less than 1/10 mm which I guess is ok. Rotating each of the rotor buttons as suggested in this post, did not help.
According to the Energica dealer, this can be some of the brake pad material that has migrated into the disc, and suggest replacing the discs.

I can, of course, clean the piston's brakes and re-align the calliper as suggested (thanks for the video), but I doubt this will solve the problem.

So I guess I will likely have to replace the rotors and think of putting the 78B408B2 Oro models (Seems I can get them here in Europe for about 200 € to 250 € each).

I agree that it can't be brake pad stuff on the disc. Then several hard brakings should remove that stuff or at least make the pulsating less pronounced.

I already have two new Brembos stored here, I will have them installed at next possibility. Found a good price on ebay at a Italian shop in Naples for 370 € for two discs. So I suggest you search online as well to find a good price.

[most]

One potential root cause was nether investigated: The fixing plane of discs to the rim. If the shoulders are not 100% perpendicular to the axle then the floaters will nether be able to compensate. I guess (but don’t know) that those landing spots are machined in the rim, but I nether checked if paint build-up might lead to a tiny lateral runout of the disc.
However, this would have been present from the first mile on. It remains to be clarified if brand new floater *MIGHT* be able to compensate a small lateral runout of the disc due to paint…

[Twinman]

Latest news:
- measured disc thickness in multiple spots and the difference is 3/100 mm (from 4.95 max to 4.92 min)
- Warp less than 1/10 mm
- cleaning calipers, brake piston, all good and working well
- put back carefully the caliper in place following the above video

And ... still the same pulsating braking, the harder I pull the harder the pulsating.

As the disc surface sounds ok along with the brake pads, I tend to believe the Energica CH dealer, something has happen to the discs surface such as brake pad material migration to the disc.

Now, potential solutions
- Seems for some/one, just changing the brake pads solves the issue. I have some doubt it will fix the problem if the above theory is true but ready to try though, any recommendations on the ones I should use ?
- locate the faulty disc and change it to an OEM one plus the associated brake pads. Here I take the risk of same problem appearing again.
- Changing both discs & the brake pads, with the Oro ones, not the cheapest solution but probably the safest one.

Your thoughts and advice welcome

[most]

Is the bike still under warranty? If so then let your dealer solve the issue.

[Twinman]

Is the bike still under warranty? If so then let your dealer solve the issue.

Well, the bike just out of waranty plus the dealer suggested that the issue is due to incorrect running-in and direct me to Brembo web site on how to proceeed, see below.

-----
Vibrations on the brake disc can occur due to different issues. Here are some of them...:
- Incorrect commissioning of new brakes
  => With new brakes, one should follow a specific procedure with the first braking actions. If one fails to do the first brakings correctly, it can happen, that discs deform or that brake pads "burn" the coating on the disc. Here, the brake pad diffuses onto the brake disk. This feels similar to a warped brake disk.
- Falling down
  => One falls down with the bike and the disc touches any obstacle and deforms
- etc...
 
How to solve the problem...?
Once the brake discs are warped, the chance to "correct" it by the coccrect way of braking is very small; maybe even impossible. I would suggest changing the damaged disc(s) and maybe also the brake pads. Once done, you should follow the manufacturers (BREMBO) instructions on "How to properly do the first brakings with new pads and discs".
---

[Richard230]

The brake disc of my Zero were not warped. The EBC pads completely fixed the pulsating issue. While that may not be your problem, a set of pads is a lot less expensive than new discs. In any case, if they don't work and you need to buy new discs, you will need new pads anyway.

[Specter]

you would not necessarily fell the brake pulsing, as you are not changing the pressure on it.  If it's a shitty rotor, it's just hitting a rough spot, the pressure is the same, the friction is changing, which is causing the 'pulling' feeling.  If the rotor is not warped, there is no physical change to it's position, which would cause the pressure feedback on the brake handle.

a corrosion spot, or some junk on the pad or rotor could cause that.

Aaron

[Twinman]

Seems chaging the pad by EBC new ones did the trick. Can still feel a little bit of pulsating but much less after 600 kms.
In case it comes back,  will let you know.

Thanks for the advice.

[Twinman]

Had a regen issue and had to use front brake and, sigh, pulsating is back unfortunately.
Tried to do a brake-in following this procedure but did not work.
https://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php

I guess I’m good for a disc replacement …

[most]

HNY to all of you.

If you search the net, most articles (mostly forums) sound like „avoid high temps for the initial 100km“, but a few also pretend to soon apply emergency brake stops deceleration from 100kmh-20kmh (avoid total stop) to get the system really hot. I always thought the first method is best and treated my Ribelle and Experia that way.

Does anyone have a statement coming from Energica as to how to break-in new brakes AND new rotors properly?