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[Pard]

Frankly, I prefer the go pro. 

[Demoni]

Thanks for posting the video!
I'm impressed with the X3's sensor and or it's processing power being able to "almost" deal with difficult lighting conditions. Playing with the ISO might help reduce the sky from being overexposed. Not sure you can mount one but running a ND filter lets you set a longer shutter speed giving smother motion.

Have not played with 3D video editing yet. Based on the tutorial I just watched it seems easy in theory but suspect the rabbit hole is deep. IMO for moto vids to work with horizon lock some part of the bike needs to be in frame. Without something leaning it frame it gives me a floating vibe.

Mounting on the motorcycle with the included clamp is not perfect.  It works itself loose during the ride even after making it super tight.  Scared to mount it behind as a result.

There are a number of mounting options out there for the 1/4 threading used on the X3. My suggestion for frame or bar mounting a camera is a tube clamps like the one I linked below. You can also get extension arms for more mounting flexibility. Try to minimize mounts that use plastic components as they can cause flex. Things like RAM mount balls and extensions do not work, I invested way too much $ going down that road.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062U2M4E/

[Pard]

Thanks for posting the video!
I'm impressed with the X3's sensor and or it's processing power being able to "almost" deal with difficult lighting conditions. Playing with the ISO might help reduce the sky from being overexposed. Not sure you can mount one but running a ND filter lets you set a longer shutter speed giving smother motion.

Have not played with 3D video editing yet. Based on the tutorial I just watched it seems easy in theory but suspect the rabbit hole is deep. IMO for moto vids to work with horizon lock some part of the bike needs to be in frame. Without something leaning it frame it gives me a floating vibe.

Mounting on the motorcycle with the included clamp is not perfect.  It works itself loose during the ride even after making it super tight.  Scared to mount it behind as a result.

There are a number of mounting options out there for the 1/4 threading used on the X3. My suggestion for frame or bar mounting a camera is a tube clamps like the one I linked below. You can also get extension arms for more mounting flexibility. Try to minimize mounts that use plastic components as they can cause flex. Things like RAM mount balls and extensions do not work, I invested way too much $ going down that road.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062U2M4E/

@Demoni , most welcome.  I actually have that clamp as it comes with the motorcycle kit package from Insta 360.

Using a gloved hand and all my strength tightening the clamp, it still works loose over the course of a ride.  Next time I will use a wrench to tighten it with some extra leverage.  See if that holds.  Not going to run it behind me until I am certain it will stay put.

Agree that plastic mounts are risky due to the weight and wind drag on the camera.  It has a larger wind resistance profile than a go pro , and further distance from the mount base, so the force can be significant. 

Not clear to me how one can even tether the camera to the bike.  I have lost a go pro that was not tethered.  Not inclined to make that mistake again.

[Specter]

I understand mounting tight so it don't go anywhere hopefully, and to keep the camera from bouncing all over when travelling and making the video jittery, but one must also keep in mind, the shock going INTO the camera.  IF it's say just bolted to the frame, every bump you hit, there is no buffering, that jarring is heading right into the camera, eventually that is going to stress wear stuff out. Break stuff internally and externally.  Some sort of rubber buffer, like between the mount and frame will keep it tight but will give you worlds better support longevity over time.

I ran into this problem on my boat with my GPS / Sonar's,  the bang bang and vibration on the waves would just tear up the plastic, AND the metal too, any 90 corners on that cheap shitty bracket? I can pretty much guarantee they did not heat stress relieve that thing, they just stamped them out and it will break over time too.  A bike would be no different shock wise.

Finally, and I am pretty sure you know this but if you are tethering, make sure the tether is short enough / positioned in a place that if it ever WERE to let loose, that caught on the tether swinging camera does not swing it's way into say your chain sprocket or somewhere it could cause a hazard to you.

Aaron

[Pard]

I understand mounting tight so it don't go anywhere hopefully, and to keep the camera from bouncing all over when travelling and making the video jittery, but one must also keep in mind, the shock going INTO the camera.  IF it's say just bolted to the frame, every bump you hit, there is no buffering, that jarring is heading right into the camera, eventually that is going to stress wear stuff out. Break stuff internally and externally.  Some sort of rubber buffer, like between the mount and frame will keep it tight but will give you worlds better support longevity over time.

I ran into this problem on my boat with my GPS / Sonar's,  the bang bang and vibration on the waves would just tear up the plastic, AND the metal too, any 90 corners on that cheap shitty bracket? I can pretty much guarantee they did not heat stress relieve that thing, they just stamped them out and it will break over time too.  A bike would be no different shock wise.

Finally, and I am pretty sure you know this but if you are tethering, make sure the tether is short enough / positioned in a place that if it ever WERE to let loose, that caught on the tether swinging camera does not swing it's way into say your chain sprocket or somewhere it could cause a hazard to you.

Aaron

All good points!  Thank you!

Tested mounting it today on the long selfie stick off the rear of bike with a wrench tight clamp.  Worked a charm and stayed put for 70 miles.  You can see a shadow of the camera and stick in this pic, while the software eliminates it from actual view.  Can't believe your eyes anymore!

[Pard]

Insta 360 Studio used for editing has this AI function that creates an edit of your footage that it thinks is cool.  Here is an example.  Not the kind of footage I value.  I prefer a non distorted single angle view that helps me experience the action and observe the movement of the rider or bike.  I have yet to figure out even with view locked, how to get a distortion free view like I can with go pro linear setting.

Major thread derail, but feel free to keep the topic going!

[Pard]

Insta 360 X3 battery lasts for about 75 minutes.  Running it off of USB power, with the battery removed, like I do the Go Pro is the solution to have longer run times and not worry about battery swaps.

This is a nifty solution:

https://3brpowersports.com/products/x-pwr-x3-all-weather-external-power-for-insta360-x3-camera

[Demoni]

Insta 360 X3 battery lasts for about 75 minutes.  Running it off of USB power, with the battery removed, like I do the Go Pro is the solution to have longer run times and not worry about battery swaps.

Is there a reason you remove the battery from the camera when running off USB? No battery means less weight and probably less heat, but if the USB slips or there is a interruption in the 5V supply your camera turns off.

This is a nifty solution:
https://3brpowersports.com/products/x-pwr-x3-all-weather-external-power-for-insta360-x3-camera

I like that the case locks the USB cable in place and a hole for a tether. But adding additional weight to a camera on a long stick sounds like a recipe for bouncy video.

Tested mounting it today on the long selfie stick off the rear of bike with a wrench tight clamp.  Worked a charm and stayed put for 70 miles.  You can see a shadow of the camera and stick in this pic, while the software eliminates it from actual view.  Can't believe your eyes anymore!

Glad the clamp held tight. Great photo too! Love the behind (or in front) view you can capture using a 360 camera. Makes a amazing tool for understanding things you can improve about your body position. 

That said the most epic camera position award goes to...

I understand mounting tight so it don't go anywhere hopefully, and to keep the camera from bouncing all over when travelling and making the video jittery, but one must also keep in mind, the shock going INTO the camera. 

Great point. My BMW moto destroyed the image stabilized camera on my old iPhone due to vibrations. A camera mounted way out on a carbon tube should be fine as the mount will dampen most vibrations. I agree some sort of rubber pad to decouple the camera from the bike would be a good idea for more rigid mounting options.

[Pard]

Is there a reason you remove the battery from the camera when running off USB? No battery means less weight and probably less heat, but if the USB slips or there is a interruption in the 5V supply your camera turns off.

On the GoPro I remove the battery when on USB power for several reasons.  When plugged in, the power cable charges the battery causing overheating, removing the battery saves weight, and eliminates file corruption episodes due to the battery drain exceeding the charge rate.

I use the special pass through door on the go pro that secures the cable.  Never lost connection in thousands of miles running it that way.

https://gopro.com/en/us/shop/mounts-accessories/usb-pass-through-door/ADCOD-001.html

[Specter]

Things that should be included with their camera they are going to charge you 20 dollars to get.  That fucking door probably costs them a nickel to make.  This is another thing i despise about the go pro, all the 'extras' many of which should really be included, and yet after ALL these years, they still can't fix the corruption and simple battery management.  With all the millions they are making on aftermarket crap, you'd think they could afford an engineer worth a shit, or a spy so they can steal someone elses tech.

Aaron

[Motoproponent]

Sorry to derail the camera conversation.....

Can you tell the difference when the suspension is set up with rebound and compression on different fork legs? Like the Experia? I assume there is only compression dampening in one fork leg and only rebound dampening in the other fork leg. It seems like that would put weird flex forces on the fork tubes. I realize that engineers and math probably determined that the fork legs are rigid enough to withstand those forces....

but my feelings...they're valid right?

It just seems wonky after a lifetime of bikes with the same stuff in both fork legs.

[Pard]

Sorry to derail the camera conversation.....

Can you tell the difference when the suspension is set up with rebound and compression on different fork legs? Like the Experia? I assume there is only compression dampening in one fork leg and only rebound dampening in the other fork leg. It seems like that would put weird flex forces on the fork tubes. I realize that engineers and math probably determined that the fork legs are rigid enough to withstand those forces....

but my feelings...they're valid right?

It just seems wonky after a lifetime of bikes with the same stuff in both fork legs.

Works better having them separate.  Once the two forks are clamped together in the triple tree, they work as one unit.

[Pard]

My conclusion about the Insta 360 X3 is that it is pretty much a gimmicky camera, not a tool for capturing realistic linear video.  I will return to using the go pro for my main footage and use this as a 360 degree dash cam on the bike.

This video from today's ride is pretty cool, however odd looking...

[Pard]

Insta 360 X3 captures pretty interesting views.  Get both if you can.  Go Pro and Insta 360.  Very different tools.

[Specter]

I was looking into a rear brake handle instead of the foot peg.
Does that take the place of the foot actuator or work with it, so you could use either if you wish?
Also, how did you do that? what items did you use for the rear hand brake?

aaron