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[Pard]

Ohlins forks and shock installed, set for my riding weight and style by a pro tuner, and road tested.

Unhappy with how jarring the stock suspension feels over bumps?

You may be better off getting an aftermarket seat that is softer, and having the stock suspension tuned for your riding weight and typical riding surfaces.

Will the average rider get on the Rebelle with Ohlins and exclaim, OMG!, while riding down the highway or neighborhood street?  No.

Cruising around, the Ohlins does a better job of damping the road bumps and softening the blow to your spine.  You will not be isolated from bumps but you will feel like you are riding on a more refined set of suspension.

So, who needs Ohlins?

If you spend much of your Energica ride on the side of the tire, under heavy braking or acceleration forces, Ohlins is for you.

The Ohlins keeps the bike calm, settled, and stable when pushed, compared to stock. The tires follow the contour of the road with unambiguous precision, particularly noticeable, in comparison, when at lean angle, and under hard braking and acceleration forces.

Hanging off the bike while negotiating a fast sweeper marred with surface imperfections, the Ohlins equipped Energica is predictable and stable. 

Stock suspension was always chattering and pogoing at lean, always fighting, upset over the last bump, not ready for the next bump.

Entering the braking zone at speed, the Ohlins does the heavy lifting keeping the front and rear stable.  Stock suspension requires a super fine touch to modulate the front and rear brakes to get that done.  Hard to do when trying to scrub speed, and enter a turn with purpose.

Expert riders can ride the worst suspension better than I can ride the best.  They have such refined control, adapt to the suspension, and settle the bike with control inputs.  I cannot do that all the time.  Better suspension helps the average rider, ride better.

Expensive, but worth it for the performance-oriented rider.





You can compare the action of stock vs aftermarket wheels and suspension in this video. 

[Dryer667]

Thanks for the review Pard. So between the wheels and suspension, it sounds like the OZ wheels are better investment for a [majority] road rider?

[Pard]

Thanks for the review Pard. So between the wheels and suspension, it sounds like the OZ wheels are better investment for a [majority] road rider?

Yes, the OZ wheels would be the way to go.

[Pard]

Was able to get slightly less than 2K miles out of the Mitas tires.  They were grippy tires, and wore well.

Put on the Michelin  Power GP tires and they are an order of magnitude more performance oriented.  Quicker handling response, even better grip, and a smoother roll.

I doubt these will even last 1500 miles but I LOVE them.  Lightest tires I tested to date.

I have a set of Dunlup Q5s tires on the way as well for testing.

[Pard]

Comparison:

[Specter]

Pard, what kind of camera and mount you using/
I have some of those recording glasses which do a decent job but the wind noise, it just destroys any audio, even at lower speeds.

Aaron

[Pard]

Go Pro 11 mounted in an underwater case to deal with the noise you described.  I will snap a pic of the mount setup I use and post later.  I run it off usb power because battery life on that unit is poor. an go pro corrupts all your footage if battery drops below 20%.  Charming feature. 8 hours run time on a 128 sd card.

Just picked up an insta 360 X3 which is supposed to be the latests and greatest.

[Pard]

This is how I mount it.  Note the cracked protective glass.  That happens to the actual go pro lens when mounted down low.  Another reason to run the case.

[Specter]

I was thinking of putting mine up towards the handlebars looking forward.  Was going to use one of those ram mounts, then see I need to remove the friggin handlebar to get into the hole to get it in!!  NOTHING is ever easy with me .  I wanted to be able to see the dash, ie the lights and numbers, and where I am going, so speed is shown and KW stuffs too for future analysis.

Very good idea on the case, any piece of rock, road debris, big angry june bug, and there goes your 300 dollar camara.  Too bad there isn't a way to wifi it with your Cardo for a rolling narrative

Aaron

[Demoni]

I was thinking of putting mine up towards the handlebars looking forward.  Was going to use one of those ram mounts, then see I need to remove the friggin handlebar to get into the hole to get it in!!  NOTHING is ever easy with me .  I wanted to be able to see the dash, ie the lights and numbers, and where I am going, so speed is shown and KW stuffs too for future analysis.

Very good idea on the case, any piece of rock, road debris, big angry june bug, and there goes your 300 dollar camara.  Too bad there isn't a way to wifi it with your Cardo for a rolling narrative

Newer action cameras do a pretty good job at filtering out wind noise, in addition they provide a few different audio settings.
Placing the camera where it will be protected from the wind helps a ton with recording quality audio. If that is not possible there are a few alternatives that can help:

• Tape over the mic openings - This prevents air from flowing into the mic slots, it will reduce the volume of the audio but that can be adjusted when you edit your videos.
• Attach form or fur over the mic openings - Reducing the air that hits the mics. Same reason moto communication mics have that foam cover.
• External mic - GoPro cameras allow you to record audio from a external source. The newer cameras require a USB adapter but the older ones have a 3.5mm audio jack. This lets you place a mic under your bikes bodywork to shield it from the wind. You can also put the mic inside your helmet.
• Separate standalone mic - A small standalone voice recorder allows you to record a audio track separate. This gives you more freedom in editing as you can cut and splice the tracks separately. Great for doing voice commentary.

I am a big fan of the GoPro chest mount for moto videos. It provides a good view of the dash and bars along with the road.


You can also use one of the adhesive mounts to attach the camera to your bikes "tank".


Mounting the camera lower makes your videos feel faster


I would also suggest tethering your camera to a 2nd point on your bike. I had a adhesive mount fail and my tether prevented the camera from bouncing down the road.

[Specter]

Thank you for the videos.
I think the chest mount looks the best, though you can't see the dash numbers TOO well that should be playable.  Perhaps energica makes a light option for the dash for background lighting?  on my bike I am thinking behind the windscreen might work ok.

On the first video with the chest mount, what are you playing with under your left hand there while racing?

Aaron

[PWM]

Been thinking about capturing some of my rides on video.  Of all the camera mounting options shown in this thread, the low-angle side-mount per Pard's video(s) gives the best perspective IMO of ride path and bike dynamics...well done.

With regards to suspension comparative, it seems the Ohlins are more settled particularly for throttle-on to throttle-off transitions which is hard to appreciate since my Eva also sports Ohlins suspension and OZ wheels (factory installed) hence no complaints about handling given how heavy these bikes are.

[Pard]

Thank you for the videos.
I think the chest mount looks the best, though you can't see the dash numbers TOO well that should be playable.  Perhaps energica makes a light option for the dash for background lighting?  on my bike I am thinking behind the windscreen might work ok.

On the first video with the chest mount, what are you playing with under your left hand there while racing?

Aaron

Chest mount is great. 

Just avoid the massive frustration of running go pro on the built in battery by swapping batteries every 30 minutes, or run a usb cable to a power bank battery or bike usb power.

I wasted so much time and energy until this secret was revealed.  Go pro will corrupt your footage if battery reaches 20% or below.  30 minutes run time max to be safe on battery.

One other vital point.  Use max size of 128k on the sd card and do a FULL overwrite every few recording sessions or you will also have corrupted data.  Remove card and full overwrite on your PC.

Go pro sucks in that regard, until you know the work around.  Now I NEVER have issues.

If you ride above 70 miles per hour, any glass on the go pro mounted in any location will eventually get hitby something that will break it.  ALWAYS use a lens protector glass like you do on your phone, or mount in a dive case.  Because physics...

Insta 360 coming next week.  Pretty much everyone who compares it to go pro says it is the way to go.

[Pard]

Newer action cameras do a pretty good job at filtering out wind noise, in addition they provide a few different audio settings.
Placing the camera where it will be protected from the wind helps a ton with recording quality audio. If that is not possible there are a few alternatives that can help:
...
I would also suggest tethering your camera to a 2nd point on your bike. I had a adhesive mount fail and my tether prevented the camera from bouncing down the road.

Great point about the tether. 

Also, never use cheap non go pro mounts.  The plastic will break, lost a camera that way.

Subscribed to your youtube.  Post more please!

[Specter]

Pard, the go pro issues and the total overwrite of the SD card is because they are using total shit cards.  You can get them dirt cheap, which is what they do, to give them to YOU not so dirt cheap.  OR you can spend the few extra bucks and get better certified SD cards that won't corrupt or leave abunch of crap on them.

The 20 percent corrupting thing is just terrible, for the money you pay for those things and all the new 'upgrades' you'd think they'd figure that one out.  Doesn't it save your vids in like 5 minute segments tho so you only lose the last segment?  or does it corrupt the entire SD.   Again even if it wiped one file on it that should NOT corrupt the entire drive,  those can be picked apart like an HDD with the proper software and fat tables etc restored.

I want to say Grade 10 but not sure what the new names for the technology are but getting a much higher grade SD card to put into the thing and see if that helps with the corruption problems first.  That's just a shitty SD card there.

Aaron