Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Kill3rT0fu]

It was my understanding that, for whatever reason, only 2 diginow chargers (or 3.3kw chargers) could be used at a time via the AUX port on the read of the bike. And the third charger has to be connected directly to the battery controller.

Then I just watched New Zeroland's video and he's using 3 connected at the same time. Is this possible to do with the diginow chargers? Or was I mistaken with my initial assessment that only 2 could be connected at a time?

My ULTIMATE end goal is to have the diginow pack installed, and then a charge tank. If this is even feasible.

[MVetter]

Nothing plugs directly into the battery. The third usually went to the lugs on the controller. There is a very specific reason for this. Zero's charging harness has a heat-based 100 amp fuse that is ... insulated. Each 3.3kW charging brick delivered 32 amps to the pack. 32 x 3 = 96. That's... uncomfortably close to the 100 amp max on a thermal fuse that, again, is insulated. Therefore we opted to run 2 through the harness which will cap out at 64 amps.

If you void your warranty rip out the fuse from the charging harness you can run all 3 on that line at your own risk.

It should be noted that the later model units we specced out had an overclock feature and were capable of delivering up to 40 amps when they got AC input over 247vac.

edit- i just watched the video (4 years ago hot damn) and I guess you're not aware that the biggest configuration we sold was the 9.9kW triple unit with 2xJ1772 which was coined as the original "Dub-J" charging. Here's an example I made of using one on a customer's bike:

[Kill3rT0fu]

edit- i just watched the video (4 years ago hot damn) and I guess you're not aware that the biggest configuration we sold was the 9.9kW triple unit with 2xJ1772 which was coined as the original "Dub-J" charging. Here's an example I made of using one on a customer's bike:

Right, third one to the controller! Thanks for the correction. The 2x J1772 is the model I have. That's why I was asking about nixing the second J1772 port and just running all 3 in parallel. But I do still have the battery warranty, so I guess I'll maybe avoid it. But the to run all three in parallel I'd need a 3-way split anderson connector, right? Where does the red (data?) anderson connector go for the third charger? Also, since it's a heat based fuse, can't it be cooled with some air circulation? Where is the fuse located? (is this the fuse New Zeroland pulls out with his charger replacement?)

Alternatively, can I snip the anderson connectors off the 3 chargers and just connect all 3 to the controller lugs? And again, what about those data connectors on the red anderson plug? Are there any wiring diagrams still around I can glance at?

I'm surprised Zero would even honor a battery warranty with any aftermarket chargers.

[DonTom]

I'm surprised Zero would even honor a battery warranty with any aftermarket chargers.

In the USA, Zero would have to prove the added chargers caused the warranty problem.


IOW, if that fuse blows, they will blame the chargers and that will void the warranty if too close to the rating of that fuse. Otherwise, if the problems was not caused by aftermarket stuff, you're okay.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Kill3rT0fu]

I'm surprised Zero would even honor a battery warranty with any aftermarket chargers.

In the USA, Zero would have to prove the added chargers caused the warranty problem.


IOW, if that fuse blows, they will blame the chargers and that will void the warranty if too close to the rating of that fuse. Otherwise, if the problems was not caused by aftermarket stuff, you're okay.


-Don-  Reno, NV

This is true, but also there will definitely be pushback and is that really an argument I want to have with a maker/dealer? Sure they legally should cover it, but I'm sure they wouldn't want to and I'd be arguing from there and is that worth my time?

[MVetter]

Right, third one to the controller! Thanks for the correction. The 2x J1772 is the model I have. That's why I was asking about nixing the second J1772 port and just running all 3 in parallel. But I do still have the battery warranty, so I guess I'll maybe avoid it. But the to run all three in parallel I'd need a 3-way split anderson connector, right? Where does the red (data?) anderson connector go for the third charger? Also, since it's a heat based fuse, can't it be cooled with some air circulation? Where is the fuse located? (is this the fuse New Zeroland pulls out with his charger replacement?)

Alternatively, can I snip the anderson connectors off the 3 chargers and just connect all 3 to the controller lugs? And again, what about those data connectors on the red anderson plug? Are there any wiring diagrams still around I can glance at?

I'm surprised Zero would even honor a battery warranty with any aftermarket chargers.

The only red Andersons we ever used (SB50RED) were for ground lines. Early iterations of the chargers used the sumitomo connector to an SBS50BRN for AC input and the SB50RED for ground. DC output was color coded to the SB50GRY. You can merge all the AC into 1 J1772 inlet with enough Y adapters. Lord knows I had a stack of them on my personal SR. I'll show you some videos I made of it for the guy who bought it from me so he could make sense of it; maybe it will help you.

[Kill3rT0fu]

Right, third one to the controller! Thanks for the correction. The 2x J1772 is the model I have. That's why I was asking about nixing the second J1772 port and just running all 3 in parallel. But I do still have the battery warranty, so I guess I'll maybe avoid it. But the to run all three in parallel I'd need a 3-way split anderson connector, right? Where does the red (data?) anderson connector go for the third charger? Also, since it's a heat based fuse, can't it be cooled with some air circulation? Where is the fuse located? (is this the fuse New Zeroland pulls out with his charger replacement?)

Alternatively, can I snip the anderson connectors off the 3 chargers and just connect all 3 to the controller lugs? And again, what about those data connectors on the red anderson plug? Are there any wiring diagrams still around I can glance at?

I'm surprised Zero would even honor a battery warranty with any aftermarket chargers.

The only red Andersons we ever used (SB50RED) were for ground lines. Early iterations of the chargers used the sumitomo connector to an SBS50BRN for AC input and the SB50RED for ground. DC output was color coded to the SB50GRY. You can merge all the AC into 1 J1772 inlet with enough Y adapters. Lord knows I had a stack of them on my personal SR. I'll show you some videos I made of it for the guy who bought it from me so he could make sense of it; maybe it will help you.

Thanks a bunch for the info, still. It's appreciated. I found a 3 to 1 Y adapter for the main power andersons. But the red ones I'm still looking. Since you said you had a stack, do you have a vendor you've used in the past? Or did you build your own?

[MVetter]

Used to buy in bulk from Mouser.com

Make sure whatever wires and connectors you use are rated to handle the amount of current you want to run. I have under-specced it and melted parts before.

[Kill3rT0fu]

Used to buy in bulk from Mouser.com

Make sure whatever wires and connectors you use are rated to handle the amount of current you want to run. I have under-specced it and melted parts before.

Aw crap I forgot about that. The cables I found are only for 40amps. What gauge cables did you find worked for all 3 chargers? Should be 4 AWG, right? I'll just get a crimp tool and make my own.

[MVetter]

Remember the AC input is 240vac, so you're running fewer amps through it than the DC output to the bike. If you're going to power all 3 chargers you're only pulling a max of ~41 amps.

[Kill3rT0fu]

Oh okay, makes more sense. So would a cable rated for 40 amps be enough? The one i was looking at is rated for 40 amp, made of 12 AWG wire.

[DonTom]

I forgot about that. The cables I found are only for 40amps. What gauge cables did you find worked for all 3 chargers? Should be 4 AWG, right? I'll just get a crimp tool and make my own.

Think in watts as that changes very little between input and output of the chargers. Less than 10% wasted in heat.  240VAC times 40amps=9,600 watts worth of chargers is what you're good for. 8AWG is good for 50 amps and that is what I would use.


In fact, that is what I use on my 2017 Zero SR to charge at 8KW using my external chargers.




-Don-  Reno, NV

[DonTom]

Oh okay, makes more sense. So would a cable rated for 40 amps be enough? The one i was looking at is rated for 40 amp, made of 12 AWG wire.

Best to rate the wires as 20% above what you really need.

See here.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[MVetter]

If the connection is immediately split from the J1772 head you only need wiring that does 15 amps for each one. Every single line isn't pulling 40 amps, just the station's delivery system to your inlet. If it's immediately split then each charger only requests ~14 amps tops.

[DonTom]

If the connection is immediately split from the J1772 head you only need wiring that does 15 amps for each one. Every single line isn't pulling 40 amps, just the station's delivery system to your inlet. If it's immediately split then each charger only requests ~14 amps tops.

Yep, but I have some overkill on my bike as I have the OBC and then two external 3.3 KWH chargers each on their own line to the motor controller and am using thicker wires than necessary.  Less voltage drop, less heat this way, but not really necessary.


I put a charger in each side case. I think they are the same type you used to sell, but mine are not controlled by the canbus and drop totally out at 95% SOC--which I want anyway.



-Don-  Reno, NV