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[gyrocyclist]

I need to replace the C13 socket on my 2018 SR. I have the new socket; my question is: how do I disconnect all power from the main battery, and/or what safety precautions should I take, before attempting replacement?

[TheRan]

Well there won't be any power coming from the battery unless the contactor is closed, so that means either turning the key or plugging the charger into the mains. Even if you turned the key there's not going to be any power coming back out of the charger through the C13 socket, if there was then there would be a risk of shocking yourself if you plugged the power cord into the bike first and then touched the other end while plugging it into the mains.

[rgutt]

There's no power going to the C13 socket even when the bike is keyed on anyway. That's not how AC-DC converters work, not that I'm suggesting you change the connector with the bike on. There is no reason to do that.

[DonTom]

I need to replace the C13 socket on my 2018 SR. I have the new socket; my question is: how do I disconnect all power from the main battery, and/or what safety precautions should I take, before attempting replacement?

The only way you will get any voltage in that area is if you put it in there yourself by plugging it in. So just don't do that and all will be fine. Of course, keep the key out anyway.


So go ahead and just replace it. No need to worry about it.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[gyrocyclist]

Thanks all! I removed the 3mm screws so the socket is "hanging" by the wires. Next question: how do I remove the protective rubber sleeve? Heat gun of some kind? Or should I just go at it with a knife, and replace it with a piece of bicycle inner tube?

(hopefully a picture is attached, but it doesn't show up when I hit "preview")

[DonTom]

Thanks all! I removed the 3mm screws so the socket is "hanging" by the wires. Next question: how do I remove the protective rubber sleeve? Heat gun of some kind? Or should I just go at it with a knife, and replace it with a piece of bicycle inner tube?

(hopefully a picture is attached, but it doesn't show up when I hit "preview")

I have never done that job before, but I would probably use a flush cutter and your bicycle inner tune idea sounds good to me.


Flush cutter:

[gyrocyclist]

 >Flush cutter:
 Wow, never knew this existed. Heading to the hardware store now. Thanks!

[ESokoloff]

I replaced my socket & documented it here….
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=10514.0

I used heat shrink tube & that will hold up better then a rubber tube.

[gyrocyclist]

Thanks for the pointer; most informative. However, replicating would likely be out of my skill set. I'm now thinking of dispensing with the C13 altogether and doing something goofy like splicing in the end of a 14awg extension cord and zip-tying it to the frame, especially in light of Shadow's comment: "Anecdotally people at Zero are aware that socket is a hot mess for the N. America market (120Vac double the amperage of 240Vac."

Am also thinking of installing a level 2 charger in my garage.

Until this is resolved, there are several (free) J1772 chargers within a mile of my house, so I'm still good to ride.

[DonTom]

Am also thinking of installing a level 2 charger in my garage.

For a Zero, I would just put in a 14-50R outlet. Will be cheaper and more useful. If you want a J-1772, just buy a granny cable of your choice that has a 14-50P.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[ESokoloff]

What ever you come up with, I recommend not using crimp connections (even factory power cords) but rather use screw type that can be re-tensioned if/as needed. 

[Specter]

>Flush cutter:
 Wow, never knew this existed. Heading to the hardware store now. Thanks!

Be wary,   Most of the hardware stores apparently are unaware of what these things are as well and will sell you a standard cutter and call it a flush cut.  I used to make /sell fishing weights / jigs and a flush cutter was critical to some clean molds, so am pretty familiar with them.  Close it and look at the bottom, if there is ANY indent it's not a flush cutter and will leave a dimple.  It's surprising how many hardware shops will have 101 different standard cutters but maybe, 1 or 2 true flush cutters.

Aaron

[Bodo]

What ever you come up with, I recommend not using crimp connections (even factory power cords) but rather use screw type that can be re-tensioned if/as needed.

Crimp connections are the gold standard in the aeronautic and automotive industry for more than six decades because they never need to be re-tensioned.

At the same time, a good screw connection is always better than a bad crimp, but needs to be checked every 1,000mls or so.

The ideal case for the C13 repair is, that the socket has Faston terminals, and the harness has already crimped Faston terminals: that way, you only need to pull them off the old socket, and mount them to the new socket without any crimp work with specialized tools, enough crimp terminals and competence to make and judge a good crimp.

[ESokoloff]

My experience as well as Shadows & the OP differ from yours. 
Never said I didn’t like crimp/stakeon terminals but rather don’t trust them above a certain amperage. 
I changed the stock socket 30k miles/2.5 yrs ago to a screw clamp arrangement and now [No] more heat issues. 

My Zero DSR charges about 3 hrs twice daily on 120v with an average amperage of 12a.
I’m curious as to your experiences.
I see you have a 2022 FX. Is this your first/only Zero?
What is the charger amperage average?

[gyrocyclist]

I changed the stock socket 30k miles/2.5 yrs ago to a screw clamp arrangement and now more heat issues.

Um, did you mean "no more heat issues?"