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[rustam]

Hello!
I bought Demo bike from Poland, it has driven 4500km, year is 2019, Eva 107kw. Drove from there with my wife to Estonia, little over 1000km, so everything was working and everything was super.
I like the bike, and a am very happy. It has insane power, but riding back with my wife, i did not test for full power

So now i am testing it, found the Sport mode, charged up to 100%, TC-3, ABS on. And want to feel that power, but i can not get linear power, it goes for tiny moment allmoust to full power(i have seen ~100kw on the dash) and then it drop down to ~30-40kw and goes up again to 60-70kw, and from then power goes down linear. So maybe the Traction control are not allowing the full throttle? or maybe i have some issue with something? Does anybody have the same? what to do, maybe i have some wrong settings? maybe need to hard reset? (how to do that? )
It does not have any errors, battery is Green and everything seems good
Thanks in advance

[Skidz]

In my experience the TC is bothering you there. As soon as there is a hint of traction loss it'll drop power and then build up again. Set TC to 1 and try again. Spoiler alert: Going WOT in an instant might lift the front wheel. Take care.

[rustam]

Thanks for reply
I tried yesterday to set TC to level2, then level1, then i turned off the traction But i had low battery, around ~40%, so i felt the same, power jumps up and then drop down. I will charge the bike tonight, and try tomorrow again with tc2, then tc1 and then tc-off

[Sklith]

Not only is the state of charge a factor for maximum power but battery temperatures are as well. A cold battery won't be able to put out a lot of amps for long so I recommend you do a few acceleration runs from 100% before you really start to test the acceleration.

[PWM]

OP - what is difficult to establish is a threshold on when the problem occurs assuming this is a power delivery issue.

Recommend running in ECO mode until you are certain problem will not occur then move to urban...we know this happens in sport, TC don't care, correct?

Two leading contenders...throttle input or poor wiring connection from battery to traction drive or from traction drive to motor.

Take an IR temperature reading of the power conductors...look for anything asymmetrical e.g. odd temperature delta between conductor pairs / phases.

No fault codes is the primary driver to think everything else is okay.

[ColdSoda]

I'd make sure your expectations are in alignment with what the bike is programmed to do. Check out Sam's dyno experience and road testing on his ego for some good data to consider.

[rustam]

Hi!
I get some suggestions, that maybe the cells are not ballanced correctly. So went to 0% let it stand for couple hours (bottom balancing?) and charged it to 100% let it stand for hours pluged in (top balancing?)
So after that went to test, i get the linear power, so i was very happy But.... i drive ~30km a day, so for 5 days i did not charge it, yesterday i planned to ride to forest, the battery was 48%
Whent to highway, pushed full throttle, and the same issue happened, for tiny moment full power, then goes down and went a little up, like Yo-yo. Trip to forest around 20km, so tried full throttle at every straight, some times was more linear power, some times yo-yo. Getting back from forest, i had back around 10km and around 20% charge, so no problems wright?, and at 20% the limp mode was on my dash ? ( i have seen it at very low stay of charge, but at 20%) And there was something written about low cell voltage and balancing... So the power was very low, at full throttle i get maximum speed ~85km/h....
I put it on charge and today with 100% drove for testing, everything is great again, tried full speed, everything is good.
So i guess something is wrong with balancing the cells, if it is balanced, then everythings works, but if i dont charge it for 5-6 days, then it has some issues.... So what to do, charge everyday to 100% so the bike will balance the cells every night?

[Sklith]

Don't expect a lot of power if it was sitting at 48% SoC, the battery's voltage is low and it's not warm. If you can, plug in to get to at least 80% before you set off. Once you get the battery warmed up, you can still get great acceleration all the way down to ~30% SoC.

[MVetter]

i had back around 10km and around 20% charge, so no problems wright?, and at 20% the limp mode was on my dash ? ( i have seen it at very low stay of charge, but at 20%)

This isn't necessarily surprising. Because these packs are so much smaller than the current 21.5 and because the inverter is SO DAMN POWERFUL on these bikes, cranking the throttle wide open at 20% could easily induce enough voltage sag to hit the LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff). Whenever you do a massive power request from a battery, the voltage artificially drops, and then recovers after the request ends. This is known as sag.

If you induce enough sag to reach the limit where the battery says "this cell can go no lower without incurring damage" you've hit the LVC and the bike will neuter the power. This is less and less noticeable with larger battery packs. So because you and I are both on the 13.4, I suggest you don't hammer it at 20% and you'll be fine.

[Sklith]

I'm rather happy with my smaller battery pack since it tends to cool down quicker than the larger pack after riding hard or fast charging.

[flynnstig82r]

This isn't necessarily surprising. Because these packs are so much smaller than the current 21.5 and because the inverter is SO DAMN POWERFUL on these bikes, cranking the throttle wide open at 20% could easily induce enough voltage sag to hit the LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff). Whenever you do a massive power request from a battery, the voltage artificially drops, and then recovers after the request ends. This is known as sag.

If you induce enough sag to reach the limit where the battery says "this cell can go no lower without incurring damage" you've hit the LVC and the bike will neuter the power. This is less and less noticeable with larger battery packs. So because you and I are both on the 13.4, I suggest you don't hammer it at 20% and you'll be fine.

That could probably also explain why I was getting put into limp mode at SoC's as high as 17% last winter when it was 37 deg F. I expect that to be less of an issue this coming winter now that my bike is set up with a proper windscreen, some material to shroud the battery and keep it warm, and I have more experience with the bike so I'm less likely to crack open the throttle.

[jotjotde]

I am not 100 % sure if this is related, but when I was talking to my dealer last week, he informed me about an available update.

That update should provide better cell balancing which sometimes stops before reaching 100 % (my bike occasionally shuts down at 98 %).
He said that a restriction in maximum power is related to that issue.

[Hans2183]

Do the 2 top most red lights on the edge of the dash light up?m those indicate TC at work so that would be a simple give away