Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Skidz]

Really I'd like to watch the voltage and log that but most people aren't able to access such data.

Hans Capelle wrote the excellent OBD app (emapp for iOS, there's an android version too) that gets the voltages from the OBD connector over BLE. That app could be used to log the battery/current/soc/speed values to produce helpful graphs? I don't know if the Android app logs the data, AFAIK the iOS app just shows it... This would take a lot of the guesswork out of the equation.

[tunafish_phd]

Okay - went out on a longer ride, using cruise control to stay at speed limits via GPS whenever possible, in Urban mode, using "moderate" acceleration
loop is mostly 50-60 MPH with maybe 4 miles of "city" driving

51 miles using GPS using 44t sprocket
Started at 98% SOC, finished at 51% - 47% SOC used

Will re-run same loop this evening just to validate those numbers. Then I'll switch sprockets and do it twice again to see what the SOC impacts are. After I'm done I'll update the main post.

[PWM]

Okay - went out on a longer ride....

Kudos for establishing sprocket change is not a good idea to correct speedo given the noticeable performance loss.

To explain efficiency loss there's likely other variables at play particularly w/ respect to EMCE motor versus the classic PMAC on older bikes, dunno.

To make the "steady-state" data capture easy, why not pick (3) gps speeds like 40mph, 60mph and 80mph which always represents motor mid range regardless of sprocket selected. 

Rule is flat road, no pot holes and avoid undulations, activate cruise control for only 2-3 second intervals and do so w/ video capturing bike display setup for trending, the WattHour/Mile value will speak to what is really happening.

These short runs can be done with little space and always negate wind by making 2-runs opposite direction. 

Not challenging original results because it factors realistic conditions and many unknowns so consider this test case suggestion pure waste of time.

The speedo source is the quadrature signaling from motor encoder we cannot mess w/ that because it also serves as velocity feedback to drive...we are stuck w/ the 10% error which is easier to mentally manage versus an error of odd value all because of EU compliance w/ ISO standards.

One could say Energica is quite savvy to purposely pick 10% just move the decimal point over one and subtract.

[SBK74]

Speedo deviation is 12-13% on my Ribelle RS and also on my old EsseEsse9, depending on tyre make and wear. Odometer on my Ribelle deviates 3%, that's more than on my EsseEsse9, which was within 1% accurate.

[flynnstig82r]

I just picked the bike up with the new 41T rear sprocket and rode back today, almost 100% interstate at 70-73 MPH. Before I discuss the results, let me start by saying it’s based off a single ride and using semi-educated guesses, with no attempt to be scientific and control for variables like wind speed and direction. However, it’s clear to me that there has been a positive effect on my efficiency at highway speeds. I usually get 55 miles of range for sure 100%->0%, 60 miles if I’m lucky, and 65 if I’m sweating bullets with range anxiety and winds are favorable. Today I rode 55 miles from Alameda to Vacaville and still had 19% SoC left, which I don’t believe has ever happened before on my northbound I-80 trips.

The Wh/mi reader made it look like my efficiency was worse than usual until I remembered that the bike thinks a mile is 6.8% shorter than it really is, causing the efficiency to read high. I’ll have to mentally subtract about 10 Wh/mi in the future. The speedometer is significantly more accurate. When I wanted to go 73 MPH, I used to set it to an indicated 81-82 MPH, and now it’s 76. I’d be even happier if it were balls-on accurate, but we can’t have everything in this world.

I only noticed a slight change to acceleration off the line, it’s still absurdly quick. And when I’m already going 20+ MPH I can’t tell any difference at all. I would suspect it would be even quicker when accelerating to pass someone at highway speeds but I don’t do that very often so I wouldn’t be the best judge.

All in all, I’m very happy with the change and would recommend it to anyone who does a lot of highway riding, even if I can’t be 100% sure that efficiency has actually improved yet.

[flynnstig82r]

A few more rides, and it seems like there is still a positive effect on efficiency, but it’s still too early to tell. It was also extremely windy for one of those rides, making my guesswork even less scientific.

I spoke too soon on the acceleration. I tried giving it the beans from a full stop and it was nowhere near the same level of acceleration. It actually felt like the traction control was kicking in, maybe due to receiving unexpected values. I’ll dial it down to 1 and see if that makes a difference.

Still enjoying the benefits to my speedo’s accuracy.

[wadejesu]

So what kind of range are you guys getting with the stock set up? Is it more than 100 miles?

[flynnstig82r]

Well mine is the 13.4 kWh, so nowhere near that. More like 55 miles, 60 on a good day. Now I’m getting about 65, and the gearing change seems to have bumped it a little more but I can’t confirm that yet until I take another ride into the Bay Area. I also noticed that Hans’s app seems to no longer require an ODB dongle for iOS so I’ll try that to give me better data too.

[tunafish_phd]

So what kind of range are you guys getting with the stock set up? Is it more than 100 miles?

if I ran it to 0 I'd be getting right around 100 miles riding on cruise control at 70 on the dash in a tuck.

"Comfortable" range around 90 miles.

If I ride heads up I get about 80 miles.

[wadejesu]

100 miles for a Ribelle RS, ? They advertise twice that  WTF

[tunafish_phd]

As it cools off in my area a bit, I'm getting more motivated to do a bunch of sprocket changes again.

I'm putting together a loop with minimal stops and traffic and will be running on cruise control as much as possible. For speeds, I'm leaning towards doing 2 runs. One favoring the Speedo for Cruise control, one favoring GPS speeds, Just to see how things stack up, for a total of 4 runs.

Data Points to gather on each run:
1. Odometer reading vs GPS mileage reading
2. SOC at start/end
3. Wh/mi avg reading at a known point in the loop
4. Speedo vs GPS reading at 20/40/60 MPH dash

I realize these are only single data points, but I only have so much time/patience for this at this point.

[tunafish_phd]

100 miles for a Ribelle RS, ? They advertise twice that  WTF

Thats why I'm so fired up to get more and more real-world data.

If I'm doing 30-50 MPH I can get 120-140 miles all day long, but real-world highways are not 50mph in the US, they're 60+.

I honestly think the claims are just..... wrong. 

[wadejesu]

What mode? ECO, SPORT etc

[tunafish_phd]

Sport

[Skidz]

My commute on my Ribelle is 95 miles (144 km) and I get there with 15% left. Commute is 95% highway at 62mph, but I do the distance @68mph according to my Garmin GPS. Slightly better, but not much. Extrapolating I get 95/85*100 = 112 miles of range.