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[stanelie]

It means that between 0 and 2% of 5 volts, it will consider this input as being 0. This is useful to keep a "dead" zone at closed throttle position.

[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

Finally! The motor controller works now. The rear wheel is still up above the garage floor, but it does spin when I twist the throttle. My settings are what I posted in my last photo. Pretty much everything is disabled and the input is 0V-5V (not ohms).
 However, each time when I twist the throttle, the motor controller beeps once and then the wheel starts to spin. Is that normal? Is there a way to turn off the beep?

[stanelie]

I doubt this is normal, mine doesn't beep, I didn't even know it had a beeper. Are you sure the beeps are coming from the controller? The only thing that beeps on mine is the BMS (inside the battery pack, there is a small hole for it at the front of the battery pack).

Hooray, you got it to run! What did you change to make it work?

[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

I contact Kelly controls, sent them a video of the wheel turning and the start-up beep. They said the same thing, that their controllers don't have a beeper in them. So something on the Zero is beeping every time I start to move. If it did that before the new controller, I never noticed it. Guess I'll have to live with it.

[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

Stanelie,

  I bought 7 Nissan Leaf batteries, removed my old battery from the Zero, and now I'm stuck. I'm trying to untangle the spaghetti noodles all of the place and can't figure out how they go with the Nissan Leaf batteries.
  On page one, you posted a photo of your opened Zero battery. Do you have another photo, showing how you figured out which wires went where on your Nissan batteries?

  I started a new conversation post.

[stanelie]

The colorful drawing is the correct connection diagram using the Nissan lead batteries, copied from a Ryan on the net who did this with a Zero. I just used his recipe.

This is what I used.

The center smaller screw on the Nissan cells corresponds to the wire you circled on the other thread.

[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

I finally got the battery all assembled, went for a test drive, and everything worked great! Until it stopped working altogether.

  Around the neighborhood, under 45mph, everything's fine. Then I got greedy and went to a busier street where I could 'floor it'. Hit 58 mph, ran for a few more seconds, and then everything died. The dashboard flashing and the BMS beeping all indicated that the batteries got too hot, so the BMS deactivated the throttle. I managed to get home and let the motorcycle cool off overnight in the garage. It still beeped the "too hot" error every minute or two and I was unable to power on the motorcycle at all.

  This morning, I'm able to power her up just fine, so nothing burned out, all connections and fuses are still good. Talking to the MBB still shows 90% battery remaining.

 I'm in the process of undoing all of my work, taking everything off, opening up the battery again, and then what? Where should I put that blasted temperature sensor? Last week, I had shoved it in between two of the middle Leaf batteries, kind of where it was in the original Zero batteries. I guess Leaf batteries run hotter than Zero batteries.

 Where does everyone else put the temperature sensor so that it won't disable the throttle after going 58 mph for a few seconds? Do you just leave it flopping around, away from any batteries?

[stanelie]

Hum...

I've put my temperature sensor between 2 cells in the middle of the pack, 1 inch from the edge. I have not had issues with the temperature, even while running the bike with wide open throttle for extended time.

[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

That sounds like where I had mine, but it overheated. I'll just tape the thermometer to the side of a battery.

[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

After replacing the throttle, which didn't fix anything, and then the motor controller, which also didn't fix anything, I finally replaced the batteries. That fixed it.

 However, to quote Zero from the Zero Owners' Manual:
 "The power pack should maintain up to 80% of its capacity, for appoxiamately (sic) 112,654 kms (70,000 mi)."

Nope! My Zero is right at 6,600.0 miles and the original power pack didn't have enough power to go more than 35 mph. Only 6,600 miles. That's nowhere near 70,000 miles.

[Specter]

Which is probably, why the pack is on E bay being sold for little more than scrap plus their 10 percent.

Aaron