Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[DonTom]

I am going to start the well-overdue maintenance on my 2020 Esse Esse 9.


I was going to start by doing  a coolant change. But page 125 says a "Diagnostic Tool" is used to "activate the recirculation pump".  What is this tool? And is it really necessary?


-Don-  Reno, NV

[HankTheTank]

Always best to service your bike through your Energica certified dealer.

The dealer software tool allows technicians to activate the water pump of the bike. This helps flush micro air bubbles from the system.
The pump runs on 12v so it is possible for a end user to disconnect the pump from the bikes harness and supply this power externally.

If you decide to drain the coolant system it's best to place the bike on it's side stand. Remove the clamp securing the hose between the water pump and the radiator (this is the lowest point in the system). Then remove the cap from the reservoir to allow air to enter the system.
Once drained refit the hose and clamp it in place. Install a funnel in the top of the reservoir and begin filling the system. There are 2 bolts (one on the right side of the radiator and another on the inlet to the inverter) these are used to purge air from the system. Unbolt the radiator bolt and fill the system till fluid comes out, reinstall the bolt (with a new crush washer). Unscrew the 2nd bolt at the inverter and fill till fluid comes out, reinstall the bolt (with a new crush washer). Top up the reservoir and then turn the bike on, the pump will spin on startup. If you hear the pump make a lot of noise there is air trapped in the system. Running the pump for 1 min on 5 min off for a few cycles should allow the air to escape. Refill the reservoir once this process is complete.

[DonTom]

Always best to service your bike through your Energica certified dealer.

The dealer software tool allows technicians to activate the water pump of the bike. This helps flush micro air bubbles from the system.
The pump runs on 12v so it is possible for a end user to disconnect the pump from the bikes harness and supply this power externally.

If you decide to drain the coolant system it's best to place the bike on it's side stand. Remove the clamp securing the hose between the water pump and the radiator (this is the lowest point in the system). Then remove the cap from the reservoir to allow air to enter the system.
Once drained refit the hose and clamp it in place. Install a funnel in the top of the reservoir and begin filling the system. There are 2 bolts (one on the right side of the radiator and another on the inlet to the inverter) these are used to purge air from the system. Unbolt the radiator bolt and fill the system till fluid comes out, reinstall the bolt (with a new crush washer). Unscrew the 2nd bolt at the inverter and fill till fluid comes out, reinstall the bolt (with a new crush washer). Top up the reservoir and then turn the bike on, the pump will spin on startup. If you hear the pump make a lot of noise there is air trapped in the system. Running the pump for 1 min on 5 min off for a few cycles should allow the air to escape. Refill the reservoir once this process is complete.

Welcome! I see that was your first post here.


Anyway, nearest Energica dealer is more than a couple of hundred miles(300 km) from here. Makes it easier to do this all myself.


Your info. was very helpful. I can find another way to activate the water pump, thanks!


-Don-  Reno, NV

[DonTom]

I noticed the stock coolant is pink in color. I assume it's okay to change to the green stuff. Here in the USA I have only seen pink coolant as the non-poisonous stuff they use in RVs to winterize and I know that isn't what is in there.


Anyway, since I have to bike up on stands to change the front tire, and is now level, I will do the coolant change last instead of first. I already drained the motor and gear oil and cleaned the motor filter. I have the new gaskets and such for the belly pan. I am about ready to start putting the bike back together with the new Dextron V6 gear oil.


I already have the water pump ready to use with 12V. I already ran it for a few seconds just to hear it run. Not very loud, kinda hard to even hear, but it was obvious it was running. I cut the wires to the connector and used European style screw connectors on the wires to make it easy to disconnect and  run the water pump with a little 12V battery.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[DonTom]

I now see why the stock coolant is a pinkish color. You can see the pinkish level through the reservoir.   Can't see the green stuff, but I can see the shadow of it when I shake the reservoir, which will work well enough for me.


I have all the fluids now changed in my Esse Esse 9.   I will be all done with it after I get the front tire changed.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[andyman]

I don't know about the color of the coolant but my experience changing coolant for the diesel truck tells me there or OAT, HOAT, and IAT.  Not sure which one these bikes require or designed for. But in my cummins I was told to only use HOAT.

Doing a little research, looks like pink could be P-HOAT (Phosphated HOAT)..  These different type of coolants generally can't mix with each other fyi. 

[DonTom]

I don't know about the color of the coolant but my experience changing coolant for the diesel truck tells me there or OAT, HOAT, and IAT.  Not sure which one these bikes require or designed for. But in my cummins I was told to only use HOAT.

Doing a little research, looks like pink could be P-HOAT (Phosphated HOAT)..  These different type of coolants generally can't mix with each other fyi.

Diesels are quite a bit different for several reasons.


The Energica service manual says to use 50% water and 50% glycol, which I did. I have never seen the pink color here in the USA, other than the RV stuff, which is far different.


The green stuff I used says "mixes with coolants of any color".


And it's for aluminum engines, etc. I doubt if inverter coolant could be that critical anyway.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Richard230]

I don't know about the color of the coolant but my experience changing coolant for the diesel truck tells me there or OAT, HOAT, and IAT.  Not sure which one these bikes require or designed for. But in my cummins I was told to only use HOAT.

Doing a little research, looks like pink could be P-HOAT (Phosphated HOAT)..  These different type of coolants generally can't mix with each other fyi.

Diesels are quite a bit different for several reasons.


The Energica service manual says to use 50% water and 50% glycol, which I did. I have never seen the pink color here in the USA, other than the RV stuff, which is far different.


The green stuff I used says "mixes with coolants of any color".


And it's for aluminum engines, etc. I doubt of inverter coolant could be that critical anyway.


-Don-  Reno, NV

My 2020 KTM 390 Duke uses very pink coolant.  My other ICE motorcycles use the green or blue stuff.  The coolant in my 2016 R120RS is blue. The last time I had my bike serviced two years ago the dealer told me that BMW no longer has coolant change requirements. He says that their new coolant no longer needs to be replaced at mileage or time intervals. 

[andyman]

I have to question why coolant was changed so early. Especially when the temperatures are not very high on this bike (I'm assuming, especially compared to a diesel truck).  But with that said, I did see a PEAK OET pink coolant on amazon for $25 in concentrate form, 1 gallon.   Says spec'd for Euro vehicles.

[DonTom]

My 2020 KTM 390 Duke uses very pink coolant.  My other ICE motorcycles use the green or blue stuff.  The coolant in my 2016 R120RS is blue. The last time I had my bike serviced two years ago the dealer told me that BMW no longer has coolant change requirements. He says that their new coolant no longer needs to be replaced at mileage or time intervals. 

Tesla did the same with their battery coolant. I assume  they don't know at first. The real test is time. Until then, they need to guess.


I doubt if it was really necessary to change the coolant in my Energica (7k miles). But I wanted to do it anyway just so I know how. Now that I know how, we can expect  Energica  to soon say it's unnecessary as well.


I now have  in my Energica  new motor oil, new gear oil (both are V6 Dextron), new coolant and a new front tire.



I put around 150 miles on my Energica today.  That was my test ride.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Richard230]

My $$$ KTM dealer changed the coolant (and also checked the valve lash) when they performed the $650  , 600-mile initial servicing on the bike. What a ripoff.  Now I do all of my own servicing, including having found a way to delete the "service required" warning on the dash.  (I changed the current date in the bike's ECU to before it was built.    )

[andyman]

Was looking at the specs of my Ego in the manual.  It uses the coolelf auto supra 37 which meets ASTM D3306 and BS 6580 among other specs.  Unfortunetly this coolant is not available in the US.   This particular coolant is a long life coolant. According to the pdf:

- contains no silicates, phosphates, chromates, nitrites or boron.
- is a «very long life» coolant based on monoethylene glycol and organic
inhibitors of corrosion.

Specs are found here:
https://www.southernlubricants.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Total-COOLELF-AUTO-SUPRA-37C-TDS-2.pdf


But you can find a coolant on amazon in concentrate and 50/50 form that meets both ASTM D3306 and BS 6580.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PND31TW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

[DonTom]

Was looking at the specs of my Ego in the manual.  It uses the coolelf auto supra 37 which meets ASTM D3306 and BS 6580 among other specs.  Unfortunetly this coolant is not available in the US.   This particular coolant is a long life coolant. According to the pdf:

- contains no silicates, phosphates, chromates, nitrites or boron.
- is a «very long life» coolant based on monoethylene glycol and organic
inhibitors of corrosion.

Specs are found here:
https://www.southernlubricants.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Total-COOLELF-AUTO-SUPRA-37C-TDS-2.pdf


But you can find a coolant on amazon in concentrate and 50/50 form that meets both ASTM D3306 and BS 6580.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PND31TW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Thanks for that info. I assume the green stuff I have in there now will be okay for the next 6K miles or so, but I will order that pink stuff for next time.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[DonTom]

Unfortunetly this coolant is not available in the US.   

Do you have any idea what the reason is? We have plenty of European cars in the USA, so why is it not in stock at any local auto parts stores?


-Don-  Reno, NV

[andyman]

The coolelf auto supra 37 isn't available in the US.  Probably didn't want to bother getting regulation approval OR they just don't have a market here?  BTW do note that this is a silicate and phosphate free coolant.   The green stuff you used are full of silicate, phosphate, borate.  I think the IAT (green coolants) are an alkaline solution with a higher pH and the coolelf (pink) is a lower pH.   Anyway it mostly affects the water seals so if you were to see a failure, you'll see it in a few thousand miles or more.  Heck you may never see a failure until you remove the water pump and maybe the seals will fall apart if disturbed but other wise fine.