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[Thumpalong]

Hi
This is a 2013 DS model. After 7000km trouble free riding its got an issue. The gauge cluster switches off so no speedo..rev counter..SOC..lights..horn or indicators but still have drive. Its doing it intermittent off and on while riding. Seems like a contact issue. Can anyone point me in the right direction to troubleshoot?

[Richard230]

That sounds to me like your DC-DC converter has died. That is what happened recently on my 2018 Zero, although the gauge display continued to work but was not backlit.  Otherwise, everything else that you described didn't work.  See my adjacent thread. If you decide to replace your converter, be sure to check out the unofficial repair manual, as I believe the converter on the 2013 models can be found in a different location.

https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Gen2

[TEV]

That sounds to me like your DC-DC converter has died. That is what happened recently on my 2018 Zero, although the gauge display continued to work but was not backlit.  Otherwise, everything else that you described didn't work.  See my adjacent thread. If you decide to replace your converter, be sure to check out the unofficial repair manual, as I believe the converter on the 2013 models can be found in a different location.

https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Gen2

The 2013 has a different display, so more likely is the DC-DC convertor, a bad contact on the DC-DC  high voltage fuse, or a bad contact on the DC-DC connector.

[Thumpalong]

This problem went away for about 3 months. Thought was ok but today its suddenly back. Got no backup here in SA..can anyone guide me where to start checking and must the bike be made safe first? I would think its a connection problem as it switches on and off all the time.

[TEV]

This problem went away for about 3 months. Thought was ok but today its suddenly back. Got no backup here in SA..can anyone guide me where to start checking and must the bike be made safe first? I would think its a connection problem as it switches on and off all the time.

If you're lucky, is just corroded contacts on the DC-DC converter plug, using contact cleaner and dielectric grease may fix it. Getting to the dc-dc converter to do that it's a PITA.
See this:
and this: https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=11689.0

P.S. if your trips are not very long, a quick fix, until you get a new DC-DC converter, could be done by installing a 12V battery that you manually charge any time you can with a 12V battery charger.

Good luck!

[Thumpalong]

Thx Tev..will keep u posted

[Thumpalong]

So the 12v system worked couple months ok but then completely shut off last 2 weeks which really seems like bad connection somewhere. On investigation found bad connection in instrument cluster and got it working. But problem soon returned..found the relay in the charge circuit is tripping so still fault finding. If it is the convertor will fitting a 12v batt last long enough for riding?..im presuming nothing is charging it wen riding.

[NEW2elec]

When mine was doing the same thing (13 DS).  I bought a new DC-DC unit and some aluminum tape and told the shop to replace the unit and save the old one for me. It fixed the problem completely.

If it had not then they would have needed to start digging.  I didn't want to pay them to run a bunch of tests at $100 an hour so I rolled the dice.  Worst case you bought a new unit too soon, but it's always a matter of "when" the DC-DC unit fails not "if" so the old one can still be a back up if needed and it's still good.

I'd say get it changed out and see if it doesn't give you piece of mind to ride safely again.

[Thumpalong]

If it is the convertor can they not be repaired?

[NEW2elec]

Ok fair question.  I know the battery itself and the Calex charger are both potted (filled with epoxy to keep out water).  That makes any repairs to smaller components impossible.  I don't know for sure if that is the case with the DC-DC unit but it seems likely.

I think it was like $220 US for the unit.  Now in theory you can change it out yourself.  It's just a matter of unplugging the connector wiring (simple blade connections pull loose and push back on), using some marked masking tape to remember the order and placement of the wires to the unit.  The unit has markings for the in and out functions.
The problem is taking all the things apart that are around the unit because it's buried down in the bike below the tank.
I found it worth it to pay the shop to do it but your hands may work better than mine.

[Richard230]

If it is the convertor can they not be repaired?

I replaced the DC-DC converter on my 2018 Zero S and it definitely can not be repaired. It is contained in a plastic potted lump with no way to open it up short of a band saw.    The converter for a 2014 Zero S costs $260 at AF1 Racing: https://www.af1racing.com/DC-DC-CONV-SEVCON-622-11202-NON-EMC-ZM60-04015  However I couldn't find a parts listing for the 2013 models. 

[Thumpalong]

Ive been thinking I like the idea of installing a 12v battery which I can charge separately as its bound to give more range (Im charging batteries all the time on my ICE bikes). Anyone done this before..is there a procedure or is simply a case of replacing the converter with a battery using negative and positive which connect to the converter??

[NEW2elec]

Just, no.  There is no room, no way to keep it charged or regulate the voltage.

Really if you're balking at changing out the DC-DC unit this may not be the bike for you.

There will be other things that will fail that cost way more and will have to be replaced at your dealer.

[Thumpalong]

Ok so that might be a bad idea. Im still thinking it could be connection issue as it still switches on intermittently but stays off most the time. Something I havent mentioned is this 12v system was modified as the bike was a demo model for the local police. So lights and hazard switches were moved to top of tank area, blue lights and a siren was also added. As someone has messed with the 12v system I shud maybe go through all those connections thats been fiddled.

[NEW2elec]

That is the way the DC-DC unit dies.  On and off for longer periods of time. 
The chargers will do the same.  Lower how high they can charge the battery until it fully fails.

I'd say it's 90% a failing converter.