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[mdjak1]

Question for you: considering it's an alteration on the very expensive harness, how does one cleanly replace that fuse holder? Will the wires disconnect, or do they have to be cut? And if cut, do you crimp/solder/shrink wrap it?

I don't recall exactly but I probably spliced the new fuse holder in soldering the wires together and shrink wrapping them.    I see the link I posted for the new fuse holder shows a price of $43 now.   Shop around.   It is available for 1/4th the price elsewhere.

[Curt]

Thanks. I ended up ordering a BK/HFA-R holder with crimp-type connectors from Mouser ($43). Digi-Key had it for $21, but their web site was so dysfunctional I couldn't even get it into the shopping cart.

Next time the bike acts up, I'll take it apart again, cut the harness and install the new holder with a crimp tool, and maybe with solder if I can do it without messing up the end cap insulation.

[bike]

I think , have same problem , will change fuse holder and fuse and confirm , thanks for the post!!!

[Curt]

I'll note that my bike did start failing to charge again, so I replaced the fuse holder and the problem is gone.

[Tymck7]

Having what sounds like the same issues as you guys posted here.  Auriga mentioned the possibility of just removing the fuse entirely.  Has anyone tried this?  If this fuse isn’t necessary, I’d rather eliminate a potential failure point….

[Specter]

I find it hard to believe they'd put in a fuse just for the heck of it.  Removing it is probably a bad idea unless you have the circuit protected at the same level a bit further back.

So whats going bad with the holder?  The spring getting weak and it's not making connection or something.  While it isn't a perfect fix, a little wad of tin foil in there to take up some space when compressed to make the fit tight again might help until you get the new parts in.  At least you still have some protection this way.

Aaron

[Tymck7]

Yeah, the wiser side of me is saying the same thing.  But honestly I’m confused because if the fuse is not making contact, the bike will not even key on.  So is the problem that it is just getting very intermittent contact?  My aux charger showed 99.1v keyed on, so the 100A fuse must be good, the 10A charge fuse is not broken, and when i remove that fuse the bike won’t even key on, so i know it’s gotta be making contact in the fuse holder.  I’m really wondering if my charger went bad on me.  Think I’ll order one and try it. 

[Specter]

my main concern is, you said you had burnt wiring.  That is bad, if it happened at a connector that shit worked itself back to BOTH sides of that connector.  Wires may be damaged, and even though the insulation may look good, they could have gotten soft crumbly, broken under the insulation and you don't see it now you have an amp trap / hot spot producing fire starter

You have to ask yourself WHY that overheated at the connector?  If one side went bad, what happened to the other side that it was allowed to get loose?  It's kind of like a marriage,  rarely is the 'problem' just one side, and just fixing one side is only going to make it blow harder when it goes again, which it eventually will.

Fix it when the problem is a 20 dollar fix, before it burns back to the point where it is now a 1200 dollar fix.

Aaron

[Tymck7]

I don’t remember ever saying i had burnt wiring?  Wiring all looks good.  I just tried a different onboard charger unit and it did the same thing, green light blinks 6-8 times, check engine light comes on, and nothing charges.  I’m gonna mess with the 10A fuse some more and see what happens.  Problem is, i also swapped out the controller for the larger size 6 one and the motor for the larger 75-7 one.  Anyone know if the controller settings can mess with charging?  I tried to set most applicable settings to the same settings as my stock controller..  I’m probably getting pretty far out in the weeds with people’s knowledge of the sevcon on that.

[Specter]

The fuse holders being rated at AC or DC should not be a big issue, for the lower voltages,  but the fuses ARE a big issue.
A DC arc is a lot harder to quench, especially under a heavy load, than an AC arc, and if the fuse is incapable of quenching it because it's the wrong type of fuse or insufficiently rated, then the arc may continue to burn turning everything into a plasma slop eventually.

The reason AC .vs DC makes a big difference is because with DC, the equipment is constantly under the strain, or pressure if you want to look at it that way of the electrical potential, with AC, it shuts off twice a cycle, so the time under stress is less on it and it can handle it better.  When things get damp, DC LOVES to creep, and seep and track and eventually burn thru in places.  AC, not as bad.  So dielectric strength is very important.

Aaron

[Tymck7]

Fixed it, it was just the 10A fuse holder as well.  Cleaned it out as above. Dang, easy fix!  Hopefully it stays fixed!

[Specter]

I think it has been mentioned before but, at work when we had issues with fuse holders getting corroded, we'd use gun barrel brushes to clean them out with.  Stick in the proper size, it works on the small buss fuses too, even if it's just a contact pad at the bottom, that brass / bronze brush can scrub / twirl crud and corrosion off them so they work better.

Another alternative is to take a scribe and stick it down there and scratch the crud off / scratch the surface until you see shiny emerge, but this is a slow tedious way to do it.  The gun barrel brushes work a lot better.  When you do this, it's very helpful to blow some air down in there or something to get the crunchies out.  contact cleaner can work as well but can also eat the plastic if it is not the proper type so be careful about using voc's around the plastics.  Wear safety glasses, those bristles and the air can flick / fling shit all over the place and the last place you want it is in your eye.

Aaron