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[ultrarnr]

A few weeks ago I got my Ribelle updated with Firmware EN.A.002041.039   Version BDY: 6.0.1  Version DSB: 232

The problems this firmware causes is you will see Key Not in Range Error messages when you are on the bike and the remote is in your pocket. Unlike other error messages that go away after a few seconds this error message covers your dash until you press the mode switch. For a few days this happened 6-8 times over my 60 mile  commute. After about four days it stopped for a week. Then it came back for 3-4 days then went away, only to come back again.

But this firmware also causes hard starting. It is common to take 2-3 attempts to get the bike turned on. Has taken four tries a few times. I always carry my physical key in case the remote doesn't work to get the bike turned on but so far haven't needed to use it.

If there is any benefit to installing this firmware it isn't obvious at all and the downsides I am seeing don't make it worth it. Best to wait for the next firmware and hope these problems are addressed.

[Richard230]

Could your remote's battery need to be replaced?

[ultrarnr]

Everything worked fine before the firmware update.

[DonTom]

Everything worked fine before the firmware update.

Still could be a bad battery in the Fob. Timing could be a coincidence or the new software expects a stronger FOB  signal or whatever.

BTW, weak batteries in FOBs can do very strange things in some bikes.

In my Harley, I once could not start it with the fob in my pocket. No problems shown on screen. I put in my six digit code (so no FOB is required) and I still could NOT start it. But I discovered the reason was still the FOB!

What I had to do in this case, is get the FOB well out of range of the bike and then start the bike with my six digit code. Then all was fine.

Of couse, if I removed the battery from the FOB is would have done the same as it being away from the bike.

I later changed the FOB battery and everything was back to normal.

Much different bike, but I just wanted to explain that a weak battery in a FOB is different than a dead battery--and a dead battery can be better than a weak one, at least in some cases.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[ultrarnr]

So I put a new Energizer 2032 battery in the FOB to see if it would help. It took four tries to get the bike to start up so I guess the battery wasn't the issue. Worth a try though.

[DonTom]

So I put a new Energizer 2032 battery in the FOB to see if it would help. It took four tries to get the bike to start up so I guess the battery wasn't the issue. Worth a try though.

By any chance did you check the voltage on the new battery?  There have been several times I found bad NEW batteries for my TPMS that I just received from Amazon. But I have not had that issue with any new 2032 batteries used in other stuff,  so that is probably unlikely, but I am in the habit of checking the voltage on every new battery I replace, before use.

Nevertheless, seems to me there was something wrong with your update. Is it possible to do the same update again, in case something got corrupt in the first download? 

Has anybody else had this problem?

BTW,  I also realize that if nobody else had the problem, it still could be a software compatible issue only on your bike. I had such an issue on my Tesla after an update.  I had to wait until the next update for the fix. And the problem was no backup camera right after the update. Perhaps two percent of Tesla owners had the same issue with that update.  Lucky me. Hopefully your updates come often.

Also, is there a way to go back to the previous version?  I don't own a Ribelle myself, so I really don't know much about it.  But it is possible that I will have one, one of these days.

-Don- Reno, NV

[Crissa]

It's always worth a try, I have had that happen to my Mazda.

-Crissa

[ultrarnr]

I talked with my dealer today and will just reinstall the previous firmware.

[frank_b]

I did not have a start problem (yet) , but after the update I have seen this message during driving serveral times. So it seems something is not ok.
(Heard from 3 other riders same problem, if you click it's gone but keeps coming back, your not alone)

For now not really a problem, just annoying. 
Firmware should have be better tested 

If you cannot start the pin should work?

[testdepth]

I recieved the latest firmware update a few weeks ago for my Esseesse9+ and started seeing similar behavior (from: FW:EN.A.002616.037 BDY:5.0.1 DSB:218 to FW:EN.A.002616.039 BDY:6.0.1 DSB:232)

Originally I received a "Key Not in Range" on my ride back from the dealer.  At first I though I left my key back at the dealer, but there it was in my front pocket.  Over the next week or so, I received the error a few more times.  My first thought was the battery - so I checked it (nominal) and verified the key range (nominal 1.5m). 

I have not had any "Key Not in Range" lately, but I do have starting issues.  Essentially, to start the bike I press & hold the E-Keyless button for 3 seconds - the red immobilizer light flashes twice.  I then press & hold the E-Keyless button again for 3 seconds - the system boots normally.  This happens about 90% of the time.

I needed the firmware because it helped resolved a couple of issues, one being an even more annoying starting issue ...   

The behavior and my work around was as follows:
   turn bike on: press ignition button for 3 sec
      boot sound & boot screen show on display
      normal dashboard screen flashes, then it goes black
   turn bike off: press ignition button until red immobilizer light flashes 
   turn bike on: press ignition button for 3 sec
      boot sound - black screen
   turn bike off: press ignition button until red immobilizer light flashes 
   turn bike on: press ignition button for 3 sec
      boot sound - boot screen - normal screen

This behavior went away with the firmware update.

Also, last year, one day before I switched the motor off with the kill switch, I put down the kickstand (activating the motor shutoff interlock.)  This caused an erroneous "fused contactor" error that I had to have fixed at the dealer.  I was told this is a very rare event (Energica said it has only happened twice - lucky me), but this firmware version should prevent this from happeneing and, additionally, it provides a method for an internal cycling of the contactors (previously, it is my understanding, it had to be done with an external power source).

In any case, I needed the update.
... and this starting issue is a minor inconvenience - my other bikes are 1960's european bikes - where starting a bike is generally quite a production

[PWM]

Keyless here, Firmware 5.0.1

Button actuation time < 1-sec hold required, say dot-dot-one after pressing then release.

System activation ~ 3-secs.  I often find myself saying...c'mon bike wakeup...

Could prolonged 1st press of button be cause for your issues? 

The turn-off state requires a minimum of ~ 1-sec press so that one doesn't inadvertently shut-down from casual contact - never experienced a glitch.

[frank_b]

....
Also, last year, one day before I switched the motor off with the kill switch, I put down the kickstand (activating the motor shutoff interlock.)  This caused an erroneous "fused contactor" error that I had to have fixed at the dealer.  I was told this is a very rare event (Energica said it has only happened twice - lucky me),
....

I never use the kill switch, always put down the kickstand.  (kill switch looks and feel like an emergency switch, probably in my head only  )
Never had problems.

[Crissa]

Shouldn't you use the kill switch to remove the chance of accidental throttle application in case the bike is moved?

-Crissa

[PWM]

Shouldn't you use the kill switch to remove the chance of accidental throttle application in case the bike is moved?

-Crissa

Traction drive enable (GO indicator) drops out when kick-stand is extended - not sure this is same as mains contactor drop-out but none-the-less, perfectly safe to leave the kill switch alone.

[Crissa]

Shouldn't you use the kill switch to remove the chance of accidental throttle application in case the bike is moved?

Traction drive enable (GO indicator) drops out when kick-stand is extended - not sure this is same as mains contactor drop-out but none-the-less, perfectly safe to leave the kill switch alone.

So the moment the kick-stand goes up, the motor is engaged and the throttle is live?

So you should use the kill switch whenever you're not straddling and ready to ride.

-Crissa